Remote central locking advice (1 Viewer)

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Formulaonehd

NWZ - The storm is here
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May 22, 2016
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After searching the threads i couldnt really find the answer to my question, nor youtube which normally has a tutorial and review for everything!

Im looking to install a remote locking system to mine which already has key entry central locking (not sure if thats standard or not on 80s) either way i assume that means tapping into the existing central locking system.

Anyone got any recommendations? Im not looking for alarm and indicators to try keep it simple and to my ability to install but ebay has prices that look too good to be true.......

Cheers
 
If your car has central locking which only activates by key, then you will need to purchase an alarm that has a signal output to operate a servo or trigger the locking mechanism.

I had a similar problem in 2010 when I first purchased my 80, for the life of me I could not get the 80 to lock or unlock. I also tried online and on here but no luck. I eventually sat down with a cup of T and worked it out.

It can be done and it is not that difficult once you know how.

Just make sure the system you buy has the output for central locking, you may have to purchase an additional interface.

Regards

Dave
 
Thanks Dave, did you purchase on ebay? So it has to have the alarm function to operate properly?
 
No, some 80's had a fob which set the alarm, locked the doors, and cut the ignition. Some have key only central locking, as long as all your doors lock with the key it is doable.

if you have to lock and unlock all the doors individually and assuming there is no fault, then it will be a much bigger job.

Regards

Dave
 
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I removed my factory alarm because it was causing wonky electrical things to happen on my truck.

Now that it is gone, my doors no longer lock when I put the truck in gear. I was not expecting that to be part of the alarm function. I don;t need an alarm or central locking system, as I just use my key.
 
Thanks Dave, did you purchase on ebay? So it has to have the alarm function to operate properly?

If I was you I'd buy a quality branded alarm & just leave it in 'valet mode' .

Perk is if you **do** go some place you wish you had an alarm, you do.

I wouldn't buy any electronics based on price since vehicles are a semi-harsh environment, esp if you get to a point your key is worn beyond working in anything but the ignition cylinder (common) - you could find yourself locked out of your own 80.
My vote.
 
Similarly...I'd like to uninstall the dealer installed alarm and add a very simple and reliable keyless entry system that does NOT have the ability to prevent the engine from starting in the event it malfunctions. Any suggestions?
 
Similarly...I'd like to uninstall the dealer installed alarm and add a very simple and reliable keyless entry system that does NOT have the ability to prevent the engine from starting in the event it malfunctions. Any suggestions?

Easiest answer is a keyless or a full alarm - if you go alarm the easy thing is ask not to have the starter interrupt wired in. My buddy who does does all mine / installer at local indy shop defaults to NOT wiring the starter interrupt, simply for the reason that they really are a PITA.

You have to ask him to wire it, and he will if asked - but they are a longtime shop, not like the local Best Buy / Car Toys where they butcher your stuff & installers are $12/hr kids.

As for brands, Viper & Clifford are both DEI, has been a known quality alarm the last ~decade & what he's used in my Yotas about that long.
 
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I removed the factory alarm AND immobiliser, I then installed a Clifford unit, there is only one problem the Clifford systems have and that is the door lock after ignition on sequence. They may have changed it now as it was about 5 years ago when fitted? Only done it once, started the car when standing outside, slammed the door and the CL engaged locking me out!

I contacted Clifford and it is a standard timer, if the door is open the locks do not engage, the unit assumes you are sitting in the car when it is started and locks the car to prevent intruders?

Choices are, no central locking or central locking period. I would gather a model from today's line up would have the ability to overide the lock on start?

Regards

Dave
 
Yes i have concerns with these cheap systems as if they fail at the immobilizer/alarm phase you are going to be in a world of hurt. As long as with the central locking bit that you can always override with your key you will be fine. This i why i want central remote locking only. Someone mentioned the OMEGA range was a sure bet
 
It's worth noting that most alarm immobilisers are simply a break in a wire for example the power supply from relay to fuel pump. Locate said wire and cut, it is then bridged by two numbered wires from the alarm system, the numbers removed once the install is complete. So there is nothing stopping you being told by the installer where these particular wires are. in the unlikely event of a system failure you simply join the wires and on your way.

Regards

Dave
 
It's worth noting that most alarm immobilisers are simply a break in a wire for example the power supply from relay to fuel pump. Locate said wire and cut, it is then bridged by two numbered wires from the alarm system, the numbers removed once the install is complete. So there is nothing stopping you being told by the installer where these particular wires are. in the unlikely event of a system failure you simply join the wires and on your way.

Regards

Dave
Good point. I suppose having it always there can't hurt. Either way i ordered a better quality one that seems pretty straight forward to install. I might put a vid of how to install for other amateurs when i done. If its one thing this indispensable source of info site is lacking, its video tutorials
 
I removed the factory alarm AND immobiliser, I then installed a Clifford unit, there is only one problem the Clifford systems have and that is the door lock after ignition on sequence. They may have changed it now as it was about 5 years ago when fitted?

I contacted Clifford and it is a standard timer, if the door is open the locks do not engage, the unit assumes you are sitting in the car when it is started and locks the car to prevent intruders?

Weird. IDK my exact model Clifford I have now (it's the one w/ the 2-way remote, -1/2 mile range, LCD screen) - it's a easy 5+ yrs old.

I can set by the different modes if I want to remote start & lock or leave doors unlocked, also a few other modes like crack the windows (set a __second pulse) up front while armed or valet, or auto-up them when alarm is armed. Only thing I don't have is that starter interrupt.

I even still have zone interior courtesy lights, not all or none like how you get if you tap the CE locks at the wrong spot (my 40th AE came to me with an alarm like that).

All functions were in the main alarm ECU, was able to lose my old twindows modules that only did door windows up.

If you give more details maybe I can get my bud to give me the Clifford link to wiring your specific 80 by VIN. Directed has a pretty good dealer resource site for that.
 
Thanks for the offer. I cannot remember the model but it does not have the window closure interface, no doubt it could be added. Given I was locked out IIRC just the once (might be twice?), I do keep a spare key in my wallet though just in case. I must say the Clifford gear is top notch IME, so not looking to alter or change.

Regards

Dave
 
UPDATE: I have installed a keyless entry over the weekend. $60 ebay job. The one downside to what i have done is it only unlocks the drivers door which means you have to push the unlock button on the window control to unlock the other doors. For me this is fine as i'm usually the only one and seems "not a big deal" .

If anyone is interested in how to do this I'm happy to post a video its quite easy and for $60 and a couple of hours of your time no more key based entry :)
 
Similarly...I'd like to uninstall the dealer installed alarm and add a very simple and reliable keyless entry system that does NOT have the ability to prevent the engine from starting in the event it malfunctions. Any suggestions?

That's exactly what I have done
We don't allow pigs with the full capability security system and get fxxxed by our own alarm that cuts the engine in 10 places in the middle of no ware.
i jumped to the alarm dud it took him 5 minutes to install central lock system only with 2 remotes if I wanted window lifter it will take 5 mints more and some more money
 
If anyone is interested in how to do this I'm happy to post a video its quite easy and for $60 and a couple of hours of your time no more key based entry :)
interested
 
formulaonehd...yes! would love to get details...simple one door remote is just the ticket...no alarm, no kill or start, no flashing lights...just open and lock...how did you do it?
 
I just saw your video on the install...heres the link for future visitors to this thread

But...Now Im confused...since you had electric locking already in your vehicle and therefore all the servos and wires lead to the driver door lock/unlock button...why did you need to install a servo and brackets and pull power from your seats? wasnt all that already there?
 

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