Reinstalling EGR valve to intake - WTF! (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Threads
48
Messages
666
Location
Sacramento, CA
I've been sick for the last few days so my HG job is behind schedule. I spent about 2 hours tonight trying to get the EGR reinstalled to the upper intake chamber but it did not happen. Is there a trick sequence to getting this back on? If I connect the copper union pipe the two studs (mostly the rear stud) will not tap into it's thread - off by about 4mm. If I get thread the studs first through the EGR flange and leave it loos - I can't get the union pipe, they just bind - butting together. I think since my head is new to me and the EGR pipe was from my original aftermarket head that the EGR pipe was "persuaded" during the last HG job with the PO. Should I just pry and push on that EGR pipe back until I get it nested into the EGR valve assembly?

I'm pissed and tired.......
 
I just had a buddy use a nice long pipe to put some force on it and hold it in place while I put the studs back in. I think doug mentions something about this in his video
 
I needed help with this as well. I ended up removing the studs on the head, assembling the pipe, getting help to align the holes on the flange and reinstalling the studs. Easiest way for me.
 
What he said, remove the studs and reinstall... (just like removing the exhaust manifold studs when replacing the head gasket)
 
@ SCO and BLegit:

When you say remove the studs from the head - do you mean removing the two EX7 studs from the "upper air chamber" or actually removing the pipe from the rear of the cylinder head? (no way I'm doing that at this point)!!!!!! :mad:

Just to be clear.....

I have the studs out (25620A x 2 in pic), if I put the end of "25620" into "25601" the flange plate does not line up right with the plate on the "upper intake air chamber, and needs to to pivot about 4 mm to get the rear most stud (25620A).

If I thread "25620A" x 2 into the upper air intake chamber and slightly thread the nuts to keep the gasket and "25620" in place, the butt of "25620" binds up on "25601" and can't budge it (by hand at least while sitting on cowling/windshield), so "25601" never rests inside "25620" in order to get the union-nut "25601B" threaded.
egr.jpg
 
I just had a buddy use a nice long pipe to put some force on it and hold it in place while I put the studs back in. I think doug mentions something about this in his video

So I started reviewing the video and while Doug comments on the removal he doesn't mention it on reinstall. I started scouring his tips/tricks sheet and found his "passage" on reinstall so I'll post here as a (bad) proxy:

"-EGR reinstall: Antisieze union threads/studs. Put union nut on 2 revolutions. Put gasket /front stud in all the way. Use crowbar across valve cover (rag pad) under union nut to pry EGR up to get rear stud started.. It's going into the aluminum intake, so cautiious not to strip - move EGR up/down slightly until you can get rear stud started a couple revolutions.
Be sure gasket doesn't slip out. Now tighten rear stud in, tighten union nut, then install and tighten both stud bolts. Helps to NOT put upper bolt on water pipe until union nut is tight - will need space to swing cresent wrench on union nut. On one particularly frustrating one, I took the EGR valve off, and used the crow bar and block of wood to bend the EGR pipe a bit, then the EGR studs lined up. Use a flashlight to see which direction the holes are misaligned if the studs don't go in. Get aggressive on the pipe with the crowbar to align the holes."

-reference, IdahoDoug's HG video

I'll give this a shot and let you all know.
 
Got the :censor: thing on!

Holy cow I never want to wrestle with that again. In my experience I included the wife. We tried all different methods and found that we needed to thread the union nut on more like 5 threads, ensure the rear stud caught, and then proceeded to thread the front stud. After much frustration with alignment of the holes - the trick for me was to thread the union nut enough to align the holes. If they don't align, thread/unthread the nut to move it fore or aft while applying significant pressure on the valve itself (heel of hand, bar, screwdriver, etc).
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom