Hello, I'm in the process of rebuilding 22re.looking for advice.using engn builder parts going with the oversized valves and cam yet to be decided.ordered all new radiator hoses,belts going to replace vacuum lines.looking for a good place to have injectors rebuilt.also looking for any suggestions on mode or other items to address while I have it torn down.Thx. 1986 4runner 33" tires,4.88 gears,zuk mod,ball joint spacers mostly dd no rocks in fl
rebuild advice
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Planned use of the truck after rebuild? Crawler, desert racing, daily driver, lots of highway, towing??? Use changes what is best.
Lots of people say to use WitchHunter WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services for injector rebuild. haven't used them myself thorough lack of need.
Lots of people say to use WitchHunter WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services for injector rebuild. haven't used them myself thorough lack of need.
^ X2.
i used witch hunter to rebuild mine when i rebuilt my engine. I sent them the four injectors and the cold start injector.
They cleaned and balanced them all to within 2% of each other. they replaced all of the worn rubber /plastic pieces and even sent me the old parts back.
Great company. would do it again in a heartbeat.
Additionally, since the whole motor is torn down I would look at getting either the radiator cored and cleaned or just getting a new radiator. (if you decide to go the new route and cant afford OEM, i would strongly lean to cleaning the old OEM one way before putting in a new aftermarket one. quality of most aftermarket ones are crap and they don't use the same brass / copper construction as OEM usually)
Also make sure you flush all of the old coolant out of the heater core and replace it all with "toyota red" coolant in a 50/50 mix with distilled water. The coolant is specifically designed to work with the copper /brass radiator and aluminum heads to not cause corrosion over long periods of time. And the distilled water wont have any of the calcium that standard city water will.
Additionally, accidentally mixing said coolant with the green or yellow stuff can cause a sludgey nasty mess which no one wants in their new engine.
Finally, I would recommend using the OEM radiator hoses as well. First off, they don't cost that much more. Secondly, the OEM hoses have a specifically designed amount of carbon embedded in them to aid in preventing electrolysis in the radiator. (it kind of acts like a ground wire of sorts). anyway, aftermarket hose makers usually get around the high cost of OEM parts by reducing the amount of carbon in the hose, hence isolating the radiator from a proper ground, which makes electrolysis a lot more prominent.
as you can tell, i stumbled across a lot of useful / interesting information when rebuilding my cooling system. I think I have a couple articles saved on my computer somewhere if you are interested in reading them. maybe i can find them.
.....just my $.02.
i used witch hunter to rebuild mine when i rebuilt my engine. I sent them the four injectors and the cold start injector.
They cleaned and balanced them all to within 2% of each other. they replaced all of the worn rubber /plastic pieces and even sent me the old parts back.
Great company. would do it again in a heartbeat.
Additionally, since the whole motor is torn down I would look at getting either the radiator cored and cleaned or just getting a new radiator. (if you decide to go the new route and cant afford OEM, i would strongly lean to cleaning the old OEM one way before putting in a new aftermarket one. quality of most aftermarket ones are crap and they don't use the same brass / copper construction as OEM usually)
Also make sure you flush all of the old coolant out of the heater core and replace it all with "toyota red" coolant in a 50/50 mix with distilled water. The coolant is specifically designed to work with the copper /brass radiator and aluminum heads to not cause corrosion over long periods of time. And the distilled water wont have any of the calcium that standard city water will.
Additionally, accidentally mixing said coolant with the green or yellow stuff can cause a sludgey nasty mess which no one wants in their new engine.
Finally, I would recommend using the OEM radiator hoses as well. First off, they don't cost that much more. Secondly, the OEM hoses have a specifically designed amount of carbon embedded in them to aid in preventing electrolysis in the radiator. (it kind of acts like a ground wire of sorts). anyway, aftermarket hose makers usually get around the high cost of OEM parts by reducing the amount of carbon in the hose, hence isolating the radiator from a proper ground, which makes electrolysis a lot more prominent.
as you can tell, i stumbled across a lot of useful / interesting information when rebuilding my cooling system. I think I have a couple articles saved on my computer somewhere if you are interested in reading them. maybe i can find them.
.....just my $.02.
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Truck sees 60% highway 20% city % 20% offroad.most offroad consist of forestry roads, some hills,beach sand and up to 2ft deep water crossing. generally engine operates between 1500 and 4000 rpm.with current gearing engine turns 3300 rpm at 80.
Factory fill in my 88 was the green stuff. The "toyota red" did not come along until later. I think it's more importiant to change the radiator fluid often than use on the "red stuff". Any fluid is going to get asidic after a while.
I am interested to know more about these OEM hoses with carbon in them...
i couldnt find exactly what i was looking for on my computer, but here is link to an old popular mechanics magazine issue from the mid 80'sarticle about what i was talking about. Seems as though Gates has "reformulated" to fix the issue. I dont know whether or not its true...
Popular Mechanics - Google Books
doesnt seem like a huge issue, but with the wide range of auto parts coming from who knows where these days, i would rather pay the extra few bucks to know that my parts have a toyota approved quality standard associated with them and that they are not made from left over tires found in a ditch outside some tin hut that has a hose extruder inside.
snobdds, looking around on the net i also find out that it might be possible for some green antifreeze in the US to be not compatible with the really old Japanese stuff. Apparently from what i read, there are two to three different types of corrosion inhibitors in antifreeze. Older US anti freezes use silicates to stop corrosion, whereas from what I can tell Japanese manufactures use inorganic salts to stop corrosion. Just recently, in early 2000s, Japanese manufactures of antifreeze just started to use an new category (or sub category depending on how you look at it) called "inorganic salt" rust inhibitors.
So basically, my point here is, even if your truck came with green coolant, it is most probable that it did not have silicates in it for corrosion inhibitors because of the type of materials used in the radiator construction. it would have been an organic salt type most likely. But the old style US green anti freezes did have silicates as the corrosion inhibitor. So just because you go buy green antifreeze at the part stores, does not mean its right. Just need to double check on the active ingredients label on the back that it doesnt have silicates in it as the corrosion inhibitor.
Popular Mechanics - Google Books
doesnt seem like a huge issue, but with the wide range of auto parts coming from who knows where these days, i would rather pay the extra few bucks to know that my parts have a toyota approved quality standard associated with them and that they are not made from left over tires found in a ditch outside some tin hut that has a hose extruder inside.
snobdds, looking around on the net i also find out that it might be possible for some green antifreeze in the US to be not compatible with the really old Japanese stuff. Apparently from what i read, there are two to three different types of corrosion inhibitors in antifreeze. Older US anti freezes use silicates to stop corrosion, whereas from what I can tell Japanese manufactures use inorganic salts to stop corrosion. Just recently, in early 2000s, Japanese manufactures of antifreeze just started to use an new category (or sub category depending on how you look at it) called "inorganic salt" rust inhibitors.
So basically, my point here is, even if your truck came with green coolant, it is most probable that it did not have silicates in it for corrosion inhibitors because of the type of materials used in the radiator construction. it would have been an organic salt type most likely. But the old style US green anti freezes did have silicates as the corrosion inhibitor. So just because you go buy green antifreeze at the part stores, does not mean its right. Just need to double check on the active ingredients label on the back that it doesnt have silicates in it as the corrosion inhibitor.
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Most aftermarket radiators are much lighter than the OEM Toyota ones are. That tells me they likely have much thinner tube walls. They won't last as long.