Rear Pinion Angle Off? Highway Vibes

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Finally ordered a DC driveshaft from Cruiserparts. Next question. What length should I go with on the shaft? More specifically, in the mounted position, should I go with more or less (or the same) compression vs what I currently have (see top pic)?

Another question to bring some conversation (if anyone reads the post)... I am looking to regear soon, and wanted some advice on whether I should go with 4.88s or 5.29s. I have 37s and the A440. Was giving the 5.29s some thought, but haven't see a lot of people with that gear ratio. Opinions?
 
I would guess you are having a drive line specialist weld up the new one? So it's properly balanced and such. IMHO drivelines are a bit of an art(tube size and thickness...) and worth doing RIGHT the first time. We are lucky to have a pro out here but he may ship all over? Drivelinetech.com. Everybody out here uses him.

Depending on you current tranny/transfer low range and future plans for them might help you decide. Lower is always better for wheeling but the trade off is strength. I run 4.88 F/R with 35's and ARB's. I like it... However for me with 4spd and no overdrive I'm a slow mover now. With the 4.11's I could go 20mph faster but wheeling was much worse. The lower gears are SO vital! Either way they need to be installed perfectly and broken in properly or could literally be nuked. After that what ever happens on the trail is gonna happen...
 
Yeah, we have a good driveline place here in town. I am currently thinking of taking the hit all at once and add another locker, longfields, and the gears. Will have to price and think that one through... Hopefully I can justify it with the labor savings of doing it all together as I am not planning on setting up the gears or locker myself.

At this time I am just looking at gears and keeping everything else stock for now.

What kind of break in procedure do you have to go through with the new gears? I'll definitely be following it after spending that kind of dough...

More opinions on my gear ratio?
 
Ring & Pinion Break-In Procedure:

All new 3rd members require a break-in period to prevent damage from overheating. Any overloading or over-heating during this periods can cause the gear oil to break down resulting in ring & pinion failure.

* After installation drive lightly for 20-30 minutes and then allow the diff to cool for at least two hours.
* Avoid heavy throttle use during the first 500 miles.
* Do not tow a trailer during the first 500 miles.
* Change oil after 500 miles to remove any particles suspended in the oil.

This may seem unnecessary but it is very easy to damage the differential by loading it before the gear set is completely run in. New ring & pinion gears create excess heat when they are new. This excess heat can damage the heat treatment of the gears.
 
No heavy throttle use? Guess I'll have to push it to the top of a 500 mile long hill decent!

Wonder if that applies to a Cruiser :)?
 
Cmon... I thought I'd get a rise from someone...
 
tsototh said:
Cmon... I thought I'd get a rise from someone...
Click to expand...

I'm Rising!!! I laughed. Cruiser under load????? never.
Those angles on your pinion are way off. Take the advise of the perches and get that thing on the right angle. Best to you!:beer:
 
Alright, time for a couple more questions... After much searching, I finally sourced a DC shaft from an early 80s 60. So, I will have it lengthened and put it on my truck. The question is are the tcase and diff flanges the same or different as my 62? If they are diff (which I think they are) can I use the flanges off of my current driveshaft, or would they not work for some reason?

Also, you can see the pic above of my stock driveshaft (post #1 and #12)... Should I keep the DC shaft the same length or go shorter or longer?
 
tsototh said:
Alright, time for a couple more questions... After much searching, I finally sourced a DC shaft from an early 80s 60. So, I will have it lengthened and put it on my truck. The question is are the tcase and diff flanges the same or different as my 62? If they are diff (which I think they are) can I use the flanges off of my current driveshaft, or would they not work for some reason?

Also, you can see the pic above of my stock driveshaft (post #1 and #12)... Should I keep the DC shaft the same length or go shorter or longer?
Click to expand...

To use the DC in the rear of your truck, you're gonna have to get it lengthened, first off. Next, the driveshaft pattern changed in 85 or so from a rectangular pattern ( earlier style ) to the square pattern that later 60's and 62's used. What you'll want to do is have the driveshaft shop put one of your stock flanges on the single u-joint end of your DC driveshaft, and then either buy a transfer case output flange with the proper patterns already drilled in it or drill your own holes. End result, early 60 pattern at the t-case, and later 60/62 pattern at the pinion.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
To use the DC in the rear of your truck, you're gonna have to get it lengthened, first off. Next, the driveshaft pattern changed in 85 or so from a rectangular pattern ( earlier style ) to the square pattern that later 60's and 62's used. What you'll want to do is have the driveshaft shop put one of your stock flanges on the single u-joint end of your DC driveshaft, and then either buy a transfer case output flange with the proper patterns already drilled in it or drill your own holes. End result, early 60 pattern at the t-case, and later 60/62 pattern at the pinion.
Click to expand...

So when I pull the transfer case output flange to have it drilled properly, what needs to be done to bolt it back up? Do you need to set preload or just torque it up?
 
tsototh said:
So when I pull the transfer case output flange to have it drilled properly, what needs to be done to bolt it back up? Do you need to set preload or just torque it up?
Click to expand...

No preload, just the proper amount of torque. I can't remember what it is exactly, something like 75 ft/lbs.
 
Thanks for the quick response!

Chris
 
I got an DC driveshaft out of an early 80s FJ60 and had it lengthened. It was expensive (the lengthening part), but it did pretty much fix the problem. I also got my rear axle turned a bit so the angle was better, but the DC driveshaft made the biggest difference. I would think you could get a DC joint from an early 80s LC and have it welded on the end of your existing driveshaft, that would probably be cheaper than getting it lengthened.

I also had to get the yoke on the TC drilled to match the end of the DC joint (the other end - non DC matched up fine to the diff).
 
well after doing lots of calculations and a huge amount of guestermation, i ended up turning my front diff up to somewhere around 30deg (12deg up was original). i used a ratio of 0.8 of the rear (of the front uni), which is what the ratio between the two uni's were originally.
my front drive shaft which is set up like your rear one has a front uni angle of around 15 and a rear uni angle of 17.
the uni's set up as per the toyota manual (out of phase) caused vibration, but in phase there is no vibration even up to 110kms/hr.
diff angle 30deg up, drive shaft 15deg up and gbox 2deg down.
the only problem i can see is getting oil to the pinion bearing...
Mick
 
bigpig said:
well after doing lots of calculations and a huge amount of guestermation, i ended up turning my front diff up to somewhere around 30deg (12deg up was original). i used a ratio of 0.8 of the rear (of the front uni), which is what the ratio between the two uni's were originally.
my front drive shaft which is set up like your rear one has a front uni angle of around 15 and a rear uni angle of 17.
the uni's set up as per the toyota manual (out of phase) caused vibration, but in phase there is no vibration even up to 110kms/hr.
diff angle 30deg up, drive shaft 15deg up and gbox 2deg down.
the only problem i can see is getting oil to the pinion bearing...
Mick
Click to expand...

To fix the issue of getting oil to the pinion, people have filled the diff through the axle breather, or by moving the drain / fill plug up on the housing.
 
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