Rear main leaks after replacement...blow by?

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Joined
Oct 14, 2012
Threads
35
Messages
230
Location
Phoenix AZ
I hate starting new threads, but I feel like I have to just to confirm my suspicions before I go ahead and order a rebuild kit for my 22r. A couple weeks ago I bought a 1980 4x4 long bed that has a newer transplanted 22r with a 5spd mated to it. Overall its a pretty decent truck but has quite a few areas needing improvement, which is exactly what I wanted. I was told by the previous owner the top end was rebuilt within the past 10k miles but hasn't been driven much for the past six months.

So after driving it home and it was leaking from the rear main seal I just figured it was par for the course. It seemed that it only leaked after driving it some distance, as it would drip quite a bit right away when I parked, but would not continue. I pulled the tranny and replaced the clutch and rear main seal...noting that the old seal looked completely fine and there did not seem to be any excessive wear on the shaft. I tightened down the oil pan bolts and that gasket seems to be intact and not leaking. I am no pro mechanic, but I have successfully replaced rear seals and clutches before, so you can imagine my dismay when it leaked exactly as before after the next time I drove it.

I have gone over the truck thoroughly and am confident I am not leaking from anywhere else. After researching the crap out of this i started thinking maybe I am having excessive crankcase pressure build up. The pcv valve does not seem to be malfunctioning. Also the oil that is leaking is pretty black despite there being maybe 100 miles on it since changing it during the seal replacement. So I did a compression test.

Here are my numbers dry: #1= 107 psi, #2= 105 psi, #3= 110 psi, #4= 110 psi. Wet #'s: #1= 121, #2= 139, #3= 147, #4= 176. I know those are super low dry pressures, and the wet numbers seem to indicate bad rings.

I know what this is telling me....and I am pretty sure the consensus will be that i am screwed and need to rebuild. But I don't like to spend money for the sake of spending money. So if somebody sees something obvious or has some logical areas they think I can make improvements it troubleshoot before I yank the motor I would appreciate the feedback. I have never rebuilt an engine before and am kind of looking forward to the prospect, however I want to make sure I am making an informed decision. Is it even worth doing a leak down test at this point?
 
The leaking could be the back half of the grommet on the valve cover seal. If you putt eh valve cover you'll see two half moon shapes. Get s felpro kit with them or put some silicone on them.
 
Yeah, I examined those too. I could tell there was no residue on the back side when I had the transmission out. And since then I have run my hand up and down the backside of the valve cover and head with no oil showing up.
 
If it was me I'd be ordering stuff for an engine rebuild. That's weird, I wonder if someone messed up the sealing surface of the rear main at some point
 
Sounds like your crank surface could be worn. Also if you didn't use a factory Toyota rear main that would be a highly likely possibility.
 
I finally had a chance to do some investigating. I decided to pull the pistons with the engine still in the truck (right or wrong, it was pretty easy). And this is what I found o_O

All four pistons had broken top rings......
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I don't know what I was expecting but I guess I am kind of happy because this would explain my poor compression and blow by. I have never had an engine torn down this far but it seems to me the head is in decent shape. The p/o said it had been redone not long ago and the timing chain and gaskets look new.
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And when I inspected the cylinder walls I didn't think they looked too bad considering what was pumping up and down in them.
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I know the right thing to do is yank the block, have it bored and get a full rebuild kit. But I would much rather spend my money on a 22re with a/c and drop it in this truck. Does anyone see any critical failure reasons why I can't hone the cylinders and throw in a new set of rings and still get a few miles out of it? Maybe what I should be asking is why all four rings would break as opposed to just one?

My only other point of interest from pulling the pistons was that when I unbolted the head the two bolts between #2and #3 pistons were encased in oil. And when I lifted the head piston #2 had about 1/2" of oil covering the piston. I suspect that it may have occurred when I was lifting the head and a wire got caught on it and I had to rest it back down at an angle to release it, and oil might have dripped off the head into it. I hope that's the case. The truck has never smoked or burnt oil, and the spark plug end is dry, so I believe it is just a fluke.
 
So I just read an article online describing how something called "ring ridge" could cause the top ring to break when pulled out of the cylinder, especially straight across from the ring gap with a clean (non carboned) break. I now wonder if I broke the rings unknowingly during removal. There is a bit of a ridge at the top of each cylinder.
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Does anyone have any insight on this?
 
The ac thing, did the truck have it originally? If not you'll have to get a decent amount of stuff to o stal AC
 
Just letting you know. The harness are different, you'll have to completely replace the system under the dash, drill holes and its probably be bet tk convert it to the new stuff. But hey, go for it if you want! I'm just letting you know what all is involved.
 
I ordered some new rings that should be in by tomorrow. It'll probably take me another week to get them in and have everything buttoned up but I will definitely report on the progress. Thanks guys.
 
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