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Discussion in '05+ Tacoma, T100, Highlander' started by blue marlin, Mar 5, 2007.
what is the latest conversion mod to switch the rear brakes on an 01 4runner to disks?
The conversion is fairly involved and you have to figure out your e-brake. Most are upgrading the front (i.e. tundra calipers, etc) first. Here's some reading material for rear disc.
There might also be some good info on customtacos, but you'll have to venture there on your own. Good luck.
is it just me or are all those links Junk??
I went with Disks on my Mini truck axle on my cruiser, and now wish i still had the drums with parking brake ability!
my experience with rear disc brakes is not positive. At work we drive off road and gravel or graded trails. Fords, Gm's and Dodges are tearing up pads and rotors on rear disks as there is so much mud and small rocks that build up back there. Most of a vehicles braking power is on the front anyhow so unless you are racing where time is critical my thoughts are stick to rear drums for reliability and to prevent repair bills of many hundred dollars.
that's my 2 cents
That's odd, since I've never heard of mud/rocks/etc causing more problems w/ disks than drums. Given your logic, we should swap drums into the front of vehicles to prevent that same issue.
Disks handle mud, etc much better than drums, which pack with mud that then has no way to escape.
I think it is the rocks that the front tires kick up that end up damaging the rears.
Military Hummers have 4 wheel disk, but the rotors are tucked in next to the diff, so we don't get flying rock damage.
-our local experience is that Ford, GM and Dodge rear rotors/pads are failing due to the dirt & grit that collects on the rear brake assemblies. We do not see the early failure of the front disc assemblies I assume due to the front wheels throwing up/back the debris onto the rear assemblies. We aren't rock crawling but driving down gravel and dirt roads up to 40 mph.
- some people have had small rocks jam in the small clearance between the rear caliper assembly and the non steel rims which will actually cut a notch deep enough into the rims until they start getting slow leaks/flat tires. Then they buy a new rim as the other is screwed.
-GM has an OEM guard to actually try to minimize the debris that will collect on the rear brake assemblies.
-my 07 classic(old style) chevy 1/2 ton actually has rear drums on it, the 04 had rear discs which I had to fix once in the 100,000 km that we drive them to before getting a new one.
- I wouldn't want to go back to front drum brakes and for my use I don't want the added cost of repairs for the rear disc brakes.
FWIW, discs will not offer any better stopping power (your rear drums are oversized to start with) the only benifit you will realy come out ahead doing rear discs is the full floter conversion will make your rear end a bit tuffer (front range fab NEVER mentions stopping power as a benifit when swapping to discs) your rear drums are enourmous for a mini SUV- just my 2cents
Rear disks don't necessarily equal a full floater. There's only one kit out there that provides such capabilities, and that's from FRORF.
I've looked at sequoia rears axles before at the junkyard. It should be feasable to make a bracket for those calipers I would think.
The sequoia of course has the 8.4" axle, so the existing brackets most likely won't work on an 8" axle.
That would be the solution to the parking brake problem.
Time is the issue for me, lack there off anyway.