Rear Control Arms: OEM vs Aftermarket (Dobinsions, MetalTech, etc.) (1 Viewer)

[gcalaway]

I have researched this as much as I could regarding this and there was not too much information I found actionable, so I am making my own thread as I need to make a decision somewhat quickly . I am looking to refresh the OEM suspension on my 04 GX; currently I think the Dobinsons adjustable option and OEM are the most appealing to me, primarily as they have rubber bushings. However, I could be convinced to go a different direction but keeping noise to a minimum is important to me.

It seems the OEM bushings would be expensive enough that I want to at least consider aftermarket. The front suspension will remain mid travel for now (long travel to come in the future) but I would still like to gain any additional rear travel I could for now. I have installed extended rear lines already when replacing my calipers.

Does anyone have any firsthand experience with the Dobinsons kit (LCA,UCA,PH)?

If you were picking something today, what would it be and why?

 

[Jstawgn]

Upgraded lower control arm are almost a necessity if you use your GX off road. I bent my OEM. Don't take much as they are the lowest part.

I have Metalcloak as they offer discount and free shipping at the right time when I need it. The high angle joint are quiet, rebuidable and have proven track record.

 

[gcalaway]

I did forget to mention that the Total Chaos links are also in the running as well

 

[Banandalorian]

APACHE OFFROAD HD OFFSET EXTENDED FIXED REAR LINK AND PANHARD BAR SET | 2003+ 4RUNNER, 2007+ FJ CRUISER, 2003+ GX470 / GX460 | Apache Offroad

apacheoffroad.com

Apache Offroad rear arms/links also use a maintenance free design. They are not adjustable but that also means you don't have to deal with the adjustable components getting stuck or coming loose.

 

[gcalaway]

APACHE OFFROAD HD OFFSET EXTENDED FIXED REAR LINK AND PANHARD BAR SET | 2003+ 4RUNNER, 2007+ FJ CRUISER, 2003+ GX470 / GX460 | Apache Offroad

apacheoffroad.com

Apache Offroad rear arms/links also use a maintenance free design. They are not adjustable but that also means you don't have to deal with the adjustable components getting stuck or coming loose.

Oh that actually is rather appealing... I was planning on keeping near the stock geometry for at least a bit.

I wonder if I would end up wishing I had the adjustability later on

 

[Banandalorian]

Oh that actually is rather appealing... I was planning on keeping near the stock geometry for at least a bit.

I wonder if I would end up wishing I had the adjustability later on

FWIW it seems like Apache made these because lots of people buy adjustable rear links and then end up regretting it because it's maintenance intensive. You could always contact them because I bet they know what amount of long-travel and tires requires the ability to adjust all the arms.

 

[Rednexus]

Moog replacement rear LCAs are $35/each on Rock Auto. I've been running them in mine for almost 3 years. They are totally fine and were exact replicas of my OEM arms, down to the steel and the bushings. Considering the MT arms are $500 a pair, you could replace the control arms 7 times with Moogs before you reach the cost of a set of Metal Techs.

In all seriousness, I'll probably buy another set of Moogs and beef them up by cutting some steel tubing in half and sandwiching them over the Moog arms. This would require a bit of welding but would still be much cheaper than fabricated aftermarket arms.

 

[gcalaway]

Moog replacement rear LCAs are $35/each on Rock Auto. I've been running them in mine for almost 3 years. They are totally fine and were exact replicas of my OEM arms, down to the steel and the bushings. Considering the MT arms are $500 a pair, you could replace the control arms 7 times with Moogs before you reach the cost of a set of Metal Techs.

In all seriousness, I'll probably buy another set of Moogs and beef them up by cutting some steel tubing in half and sandwiching them over the Moog arms. This would require a bit of welding but would still be much cheaper than fabricated aftermarket arms.

So my only concern about this approach would be adding dimension to the moogs potentially causing more of an issue with interference/clearance when at full articulation. I got this GX in need of some love and it is my first one, and as such I have not put it through it's paces yet... the result is that some of my information is from lurking on here for the last 11 months and reading a lot, not firsthand. But I have heard of interference issues and rubbing on both the driveshaft and the gas tank skid when the suspension flexes past the factory intended point when using arms that are not offset/bent (like the Dobinsons). Part of the appeal with the Dobinsons to me is the fact they are bent out to add clearance along with having offset mounting locations. I just have not been able to deduce how necessary this is or if this is one of those overblown kind of things.... though I am tempted to just replace with the moogs for now as I learn more and see what limits I personally hit. Did you do Moog for the upper and the Panhard as well?

 

[Rednexus]

I also used the Moog rear UCAs. I kept my stock panhard bar, but the Moog is maybe $50. All 4 of my links were around $130 when I bought them. I did add a Eimkeith panhard bar correction kit when I lifted and have my panhard bar more or less perfectly level.

I have a 2.5" Ironman FCP rear lift and flex my GX out fairly often. It has 2" extended rear sway bar end links and DuroBumps bump stops. I've never had any clearance issues, but my setup is mid-travel and not long-travel. There are marks on the top of my axle from the bump stops hitting it - outside of wheeling I also tow and occasionally hit big whoops and land fairly hard, compressing the suspension.

EDIT: Photo below. My personal opinion is that the $370 you save would be better spent on a tune or onboard air

 

[gcalaway]

I also used the Moog rear UCAs. I kept my stock panhard bar, but the Moog is maybe $50. All 4 of my links were around $130 when I bought them. I did add a Eimkeith panhard bar correction kit when I lifted and have my panhard bar more or less perfectly level.

I have a 2.5" Ironman FCP rear lift and flex my GX out fairly often. It has 2" extended rear sway bar end links and DuroBumps bump stops. I've never had any clearance issues, but my setup is mid-travel and not long-travel. There are marks on the top of my axle from the bump stops hitting it - outside of wheeling I also tow and occasionally hit big whoops and land fairly hard, compressing the suspension.

EDIT: Photo below. My personal opinion is that the $370 you save would be better spent on a tune or onboard air
View attachment 3599523

So I have definitely checked out your build a bit but only in certain parts (as I work on the same seeing what people had done). I did not realize we had so many similar parts. 2.5 FCP kit on mine as well currently and I have an eimkeith correction kit I have had on a shelf for probably 10 months at this point that will be going on too. Is there any reason to run an adjustable PH Bar along with the Eimkeith or is that unnecessary? I had seen this talked about a few places but I have not gotten into the weeds there yet. I did have the plan on doing long travel in the rear (and the front too before too too long) but I am kind of leaning towards just throwing the moogs on for now and seeing what kind of limit I hit. I would defiantly love to be able to offset the cost here to spend elsewhere. It is not even about spending "less" but just spending smarter and getting more so I love your thought process. As soon as I can get my car tuned I will be, have been talking with MBP for the past few moths trying to get something lined up since we are in different states.

 

[Rednexus]

With the Emikeith you should not need the adjustable panhard bar. It will set level and correct with the factory bar - my axle is perfectly centered.

 

[OH Oh no]

Just to add to the conversation. I have Dobinsons upper and lower trailing arms on my 04 GX. I needed adjustable arms to dial in the rear drive shaft angle a bit. I have had these on the rig for 2 plus years and love them. I also did the Dr. KDSS bracket )similar to your Emikeith). I have never needed to readjust. These are really well made suspension parts. The rear is now planted. So much so that I removed the front sway bar and hardly notice a difference.