Rear brake adjustment lj70 1986 2.4td (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jan 13, 2020
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14
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France
Hi everyone, I’m a Cruiser newbie so just starting the learning process. I’ve got a manual and I’m following it, anyway.. My handbrake was not holding the vehicle, bought new shoes but then after dismantling I realized the old ones were fine, cleaned it all up in the correct way. I adjusted the star screw from behind, I had to bend a screwdriver a few times to get in there. Even with the vehicle jacked up and on axle stands, with the wheel off, I’m finding it a total nightmare to see that star screw, the plug hole is at the top of the backplate which makes it extremely difficult to see
whats going on , especially when I have to hold two screwdrivers. I thought I had done it correctly but after a test drive realised they were dragging a lot. Is there a knack to adjusting that screw from the back, obviously an oem brake tool would be helpful. Does one screwdriver lift the bar whilst the other turn the screw? Can someone please confirm the direction I need to turn to tighten (I thought it was turning the screw away from the axle when looking at the inside of the wheel ie backplate) is that correct? Does this operation have to be done from behind? I’ve tried doing it with the hub off but then can’t get the hub back on as the shoes are too tight. Also does the 70 series have self adjusting brakes and if so what does this actually mean? The reason I started this task is that my handbrake wasn’t holding but the back brakes were working fine before, I first tried adjustment on the hand brake lever inside but no amount of tightening affected the handbrake and I read in the manual that the brake shoe clearance had to be adjusted first. Any help would be appreciated or any decent links to this particular vehicle. Thanks a lit
 
Joined
May 21, 2006
Messages
428
Location
Rotoiti, New Zealand
Is that the disc brake / drum handbrake? They can be a bit crap even when correctly adjusted.

Back off the adjuster on the handbrake lever first. Make sure the bellcrank stopper bolts are sitting on the backing plate. There should be a hole in the outside of the drum that you can adjust that star nut through, take off the wheels. For best results put on 3 wheel nuts to hold the drum tight while you adjust.

Cheers
Clint
 

jblueridge

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I think the rear drums were designed to be self adjusting but in reality that system does not work well.
You should be able to adjust the star wheels from the inboard side of the brake backing plate, via the access slot that should have a rubber plug in it.
My first time, I removed the drum and practiced pushing the spring-tensioned lever away from the star with one screwdriver while making the star rotate with the other screwdriver. Having the drum off also let me confirm the correct spin direction.
 
Joined
Jan 13, 2020
Messages
14
Location
France
Is that the disc brake / drum handbrake? They can be a bit crap even when correctly adjusted.

Back off the adjuster on the handbrake lever first. Make sure the bellcrank stopper bolts are sitting on the backing plate. There should be a hole in the outside of the drum that you can adjust that star nut through, take off the wheels. For best results put on 3 wheel nuts to hold the drum tight while you adjust.

Cheers
Clint
Hi there, it’s rear hand brake shoes and drum, it’s accessing that stopper hole on the backplate to see the star wheel that is causing me problems, maybe if the vehicle was on a lift it would be easier. I just can’t see the star wheel properly to know I’m turning it correctly, perhaps the screwdriver that I have adapted isn’t right. So it has to be done with the drum on? I can’t do it with drum off then try and put drum on afterwards or will it be too tight? Thanks!
 

jblueridge

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Joined
Aug 12, 2014
Messages
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Near Charlottesville, VA
Must be done with drum in place.
One of the side's star wheel is reverse thread to making the star turn downwards makes the same result on either side of the vehicle.
I can't recall if Up or Down is spreading the brake shoes out (tightening).

You probably won't be able to see the star wheel or the spring lever while adjusting. Done by sense of touch alone.

I believe I have used a regular screwdriver inserted at the Forward edge of that slot to hold the spring lever out and away from the star. 2nd screwdriver is for turning the star.
 
Joined
Jan 13, 2020
Messages
14
Location
France
I think the rear drums were designed to be self adjusting but in reality that system does not work well.
You should be able to adjust the star wheels from the inboard side of the brake backing plate, via the access slot that should have a rubber plug in it.
My first time, I removed the drum and practiced pushing the spring-tensioned lever away from the star with one screwdriver while making the star rotate with the other screwdriver. Having the drum off also let me confirm the correct spin direction.
Hi there, when you say the inboard side of the backing plate, what do you mean? The hole is at the top of the backing plate yes and I’ve found the best side to access it is towards the front of the vehicle side of the wheel, is that what you mean? If so it’s still a nightmare to try and see the actual star wheel and have two hands on there, one to hold screwdriver to lift that lever thing and the other to try turn the star wheel...Can you confirm the direction of star wheel turning to tighten please? Is it towards the axel? Maybe I need to get the correct sst tool, thanks for your help!
Must be done with drum in place.
One of the side's star wheel is reverse thread to making the star turn downwards makes the same result on either side of the vehicle.
I can't recall if Up or Down is spreading the brake shoes out (tightening).

You probably won't be able to see the star wheel or the spring lever while adjusting. Done by sense of touch alone.

I believe I have used a regular screwdriver inserted at the Forward edge of that slot to hold the spring lever out and away from the star. 2nd screwdriver is for turning the star.
Thanks for that, I made some progress with it this afternoon, watched a few tutorials. The mistake I was making was that the transfer box wasn’t in neutral so there was more resistance than necessary, realised eventually then the process became easier. I see what u mean regarding feeing it instead of seeing it. Can I explain what the adjustments on the bellcranks does please, when slack I’ve put the two adjusting nuts pretty much touching the back plate. I did notice tho that when the handbrake was tight and on 8 clicks, I could still force the wheels to turn a bit, I’m guessing that’s not normal? I can’t adjust it more on the lever as it is already very hard to pull up, would that suggest I should go a few more clicks on the star wheel on each wheel? One tutorial said that at full force the wheel should do approx 1 full revolution, fo you agree with this? Thanks again, I’m getting there!
 
Joined
Oct 18, 2018
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159
Location
Waikato New Zealand
yep mine failed an inspection on being uneven, so a bit of roughness ensued

I made sure both sides were springing back evenly all the way first, had to put a couple of new springs on each side as they were stretched and not returning all the way- the spring kits come with lots of bits to rebuild the insides as well

adjusted up both sides as tight as I could possibly do with a screwdriver

put wheels back on and drove the bastard for about 5 minutes up the road till they were smoking and burning

pulled wheels off and readjusted those stupid star nuts

with a decent head torch you can actually just see inside the hole while you are stabbing the star nut with a screwdriver

hey presto handbrake passed and locks on with about 4-5 clicks

I bet this wrecks the handbrake shoes but its only the handbrake right?
 

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