Real Time: “Secondary Air Pump Stuck Off”
- Thread starter Markuson
- Start date
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Just to add a data point. My 2010 LX with 100k miles has a bypass installed. It was there when I bought the truck, so not sure when it went on. I suspect it is the reason the previous owners of my truck traded it in. I decided it didn't bother me since I would have done the bypass if the SAIS had failed on me, so really it's a perk that it's already done. I know lots of tundra people do the bypass preemptively.
Also, I suspect mine has this one. It's a bit cheaper ($180) than the ones being quoted earlier here. It seems to work fine on mine. And I've done a full Techstream scan on my engine with no DTCs.
Rutech Solutions Bypass Kit
EDIT: In case anyone is reading this later. Now that the weather has warmed up, my Rutech bypass constantly still triggers a mismatched coolant temp alarm that I have to clear every 1-2 days. So I can't recommend the Rutech.
Also, I suspect mine has this one. It's a bit cheaper ($180) than the ones being quoted earlier here. It seems to work fine on mine. And I've done a full Techstream scan on my engine with no DTCs.
Rutech Solutions Bypass Kit
EDIT: In case anyone is reading this later. Now that the weather has warmed up, my Rutech bypass constantly still triggers a mismatched coolant temp alarm that I have to clear every 1-2 days. So I can't recommend the Rutech.
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I initially tried that kit. Ended up being garbage and didn't account for another sensor. Thankfully he took it back with a full refund. Turned right around and ordered the Hewitt. Not worth the headache at all and not a problem since.
Woke up this morning and my 08 is throwing the P2440, 4Lo blinking & center diff, VSC on as well. I clear them and it drives fine but next cold start it triggers again. I expected to run into this eventually I'm at 168K. I ordered the Hewitt Gen-II SAIS Bypass Kit. I'm wondering has anyone pulled out the air pumps under the pass fender and plumbing after installing the bypass and capped the lines going into the intake? I'd like to ditch them.
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I've done it before. After the Gen II Hewitt bypass is installed, follow the wires and just uninstall everything attached. Remove both of the pump drivers from the drivers side fender, both pumps from under the front passenger fender, and the two valves under the intake. The exhaust block off plates are the hardest to install. You will have to install two intake pressure sensors open to the atmosphere to account for the sensor outputs from the valves. I've installed them underneath the top engine cover, attached to the rear cross member that the cover hinges on. Best only to use DENSO sensors if going the PSO route, but be prepared to spend some $$ on the sensors.
of note, one of the PSO pigtails i received from Hewitt was wired backwards. It caused a 5V reference circuit fault, causing the ECU to stay switched off. Took some serious troubleshooting to figure that one out. I swapped the wires and the truck started first time with no codes. I also cut the Air injection pipes off the exhaust headers to save some space, but that's just extra work.
Great thanks for the feedback
I look forward to diving into it. That sucks sorry to hear about the backwards plug sure rather not spend time chasing those issues but good to be aware of. No plans to pull the intake for the rear two until I need to get in there but I'll ditch everything else when I'm sure the bypass is working as advertised.
