Real Time Main and Rod Bearing question

[DTAYLOR]

I'm doing (having it done at a machine shop) a complete overhaul on my 1FZ-FE. The tech at the machine shop errantly failed to lay out the main and rod bearings, they are now in a bucket with no way to figure out what goes where. I need to replace the bearings, although there are absolutely no signs of wear anywhere in the lower end. Since Toyota made these to be "select fit", the issue now becomes finding Toyota bearings to fit.

Anyone got any suggestions? BTW, CDan is on the case, but I would still like to hear from those of you who may have dealt with this before.

As a side note, this engine has 225k miles on it and I could still see the factory hone marks in the cylinders when I took the head off. The machine shop just vatted the block, and it looks like new in every wear spot, mains and all. The crankshaft looks brand new. The factory hashmarks on the pistons are visible as well. The rings were a little dirty, but little sign of wear. Incredible.

 

[cruiserdan]

<<<<< The machine shop just vatted the block >>>

:whoops: That often ruins the non-replaceable idler gear bushing.



Somebody (bjowett maybe) had one made. I do not know if that engine is running yet.

 

[cruiserdan]

As far as determining the bearing fitment when the bearings are not available there are numbers stamped on the crankshaft, connecting rods and cylinder block. Each rod will be stamped with a number 1, 2, or 3 and there is a machined surface on the #6 rod throw that has 6 numbers (1, 2 or 3) stamped on it. For example if the #1 rod is a 2 and the #1 journal is a 3, the bearing for that position is a 5 (the two numbers added togther).

The main journal numbers are stamped on the #1 rod journal (7 numbers) and the block is stamped on the oil pan rail at the rear. If you end up having to replace the block because of the bushing, use the numbers off of the new block to determine the fit.

 

[DTAYLOR]

:whoops: That often ruins the non-replaceable idler gear bushing.



Somebody (bjowett maybe) had one made. I do not know if that engine is running yet.

How many have you seen go bad this way? I cannot imagine vatting doing that much damage unless you vatt it in somthing too harsh to begin with.

I saw the block right after, and we didn't evn get all the grease off the outside surface of the block. (still some in spots here and there) so a machined bushing that is copper coated should take it and not look back, I would think.

 

[cruiserdan]

Hopefully that is the case. I have heard of them being damaged by hot-tanking. Maybe the stuff they used is not as caustic as some compounds.