Real time help: removing rear strut nut in rust country

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I should remember how to deal with this, but it has been a minute since I've swapped a 200 suspension. I've r&r'ed them half a dozen times.

I currently have Kings on my 200. I live in Vermont where they salt the roads and everything rusts.

I have everything removed except the top two nuts on the rear shocks. They're stubbornly stuck and refuse to move. I've soaked them in penetrant. One is 3/4 off and refusing to complete the journey. The other won't budge from the get go.

It is a miserable place to access - either from below or through the little crack between body and frame.

Oh, and as expected the body of the shock wants to rotate, so I am resisting that with a strap wrench.

What I probably need is a super long 19mm flex head 6 point wrench. What I have is a regular 19mm flex head six point wrench that worked fine for installing them...

But the wrench needs to be long enough that I can get on it to use some force, with another wrench, etc. from the outside between body and frame.

I've had to cut off three different suspensions in this predicament (Sawzall with a long metal cutting blade). Not a big deal with cheap OEM shocks, but doesn't feel right for an aftermarket setup like Kings. I'm thinking cutting the post may impact their "rebuildabiliy"? Maybe not, maybe the posts can be replaced like any other part...

Any guidance would be appreciated.
 
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Sawzall + 12" metal blade w/ 18 tpi. Past that issue.
Didn't you just ruin the shock body? The upper stud is part of the shock body, right?

I've been contemplating cutting access holes in the body to get better access to the upper shock bolts, I think I might look into that soon.
 
Didn't you just ruin the shock body? The upper stud is part of the shock body, right?

I've been contemplating cutting access holes in the body to get better access to the upper shock bolts, I think I might look into that soon.
The access hole was pioneered in the 100 section of Mud. Might be worth looking into it there for ideas.
 
I've been contemplating cutting access holes in the body to get better access to the upper shock bolts, I think I might look into that soon.
Good idea!

That's what I did with my former 100 series and it made the rear shock job a ton easier.

It might've worked here too, but since I have Trekboxx drawers bolted into the cargo area it didn't feel doable.
 
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Out with the old.
IMG_4118.webp

IMG_4119.webp


In with the new (fronts strut assemblies and rear springs are takeoffs from a low mileage 2018):
IMG_4110.webp

IMG_4117.webp


I'll probably put OME springs in the rear, but I needed to get this done for a windshield replacement and calibration this week and my state inspection after that. The glass place said that the suspension can't be modified (I don't get why). Plus the rear Kings were not doing any damping anymore and they were leaking which wouldn't pass inspection.
 
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Those Kings look to be in rough shape. Lots of miles or heavy use?

Also, what is the part number on those front strut assemblies?
 
Out with the old.
View attachment 4116332
View attachment 4116341

In with the new (fronts strut assemblies and rear springs are takeoffs from a low mileage 2018):View attachment 4116330
windshield replacement and calibration this week and my state inspection after that. The glass place said that the suspension can't be modified (I don't get why).
Suspension modifications can make it very difficult or impossible to calibrate the forward camera and forward radar sensor and the glass shop knows this. We don’t seem to have many issues with the lifted 200 series, but some other vehicles can be finicky.
 
Well I cut the holes. My upper nuts were rusted on there (nowhere near as bad as yours). I don't think I could have got them off without the access holes. They needed heat and a breaker bar to get them out.
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