Ready to buy 2 1/2 lift-still have questions

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Seems like tis the season for lifting... Collecting the latest information, and reading the newest posts, tell me if I'm on the right track...

the bilstein shocks ( not the Nitro's)with the OME 2 1/2 lift kit would be what I'm looking for ?
My 80 is still a DD and I'm interested in curing the current body roll the stock suspension gives. My 80 has a little over 100k miles. I really don't want this thing to wander at all. There are many posts on this topic, starting to get confusing...

Buy- 850/863 springs and cc bushings? Or get the plates instead?

Does the caster/camber problem only affect a few or do all 80's need to be corrected?

Is there anything else I need to order with the lift kit? Extended brake lines, etc...

I want to replace all the steering bushings at the same time. Can you guys tell me which bushings to order?

I'm buying this kit ASAP. Installing next weekend...
Any help would be great Thanks....
 
I'm doing the J spring lift, I wouldn't trust my brake lines for much flexing, and they aren't that expensive from slee either.

Your castor will need correction, how much depends on how it's set up from the factory. The amount of correction varies from one rig to the next.

Slee's CC plates are designed for 4" of lift IIRC, so you might be better served with the bushings.
 
I have 2.5 and Js setup and both love them. If you're not changing bumper to an ARB with winch, you might need the CC. 2.5 OME setup is still good for DD. You don't need an extended brake lines unless you go to a longer travel shocks than Es. You need drop blocks for sway bars and you might need to extend breather lines. Js setup with 35's looks cooler though. A little bit of body roll and and can still be a DD but less agressive driving style. I'm using extended brake lines and CC on this setup. :)
 
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I did the 2.5" lift, heavy front, medium rear. I used the CC bushings, and it was a huge improvement. With the 33" tires on, the driveability was definitely reduced without the CC bushings. I believe the brackets would give you too much correction.
 
what would too much correction be a problem for? drives and will track straighter (harder to turn) but i would dought there be any adverse side affects from the plates compared to the bushings
 
I'm currently have the low-rider of the group that I normally wheel with.

I have the OME heavies in the front and rear (non-Js).
What's nice about this set up is that the suspension change is relatively light, so you will not need to address extending brake lines, drop blocks for sway bars, etc.

I tend to carry a fairly large load of gear when I wheel so the heavies in the rear are a must. If you don't carry much, you might consider going with the medium springs.



That said...I'm saving up for the 6" kit...being the low-rider means that my undercarriage gets scraped up more than most...and that's not a good thing...
 
I've never felt it myself, but from the Michelin web site "Too much caster causes hard steering and can also result in excessive road shock and shimmy. "
 
Seeing that I just installed mine this past weekend and how it all came out, here's what I WOULD have put on for a 2.5" lift running 33's knowing what I know now...

850 Fr/860 Rr thus avoiding using a front spacer
Bilstein Shocks instead of the OME
Sway bar drop brackets
Extended brake lines
and last but not least, the dreaded Castor Correction...
MAF 3" drop bracket versus the MAF 4" or Slee 4" brackets

IMHO I believe this brings back the true stock castor and it provides better ground clearance as the lowered point is behind (and still above) the axle rather than directly underneath it gven the same size tires. Its more inline wtih having extended shackles used with leaf sprung vehicles. Now if you'll excuse me whilst i put on my asbestos suit....flame on! :flipoff2:

WET
 
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Do you know what your castor is after using the MAF bracket? I used the CC OME bushings and the truck drives great again, but I haven't gotten a new castor reading yet.
 
tech_dog said:
Do you know what your castor is after using the MAF bracket? I used the CC OME bushings and the truck drives great again, but I haven't gotten a new castor reading yet.

No not yet... I'm going to wait until I get the front spacers on and new set of MTR's (going on tomorrow) before I spring the money for an alignment. Gimme a couple weeks and I'll come back with my results.

What I meant was that by lowering the back of the control arms, the setup is near stock vs angling the arms by using the OME bushings or the slee brackets. I think the slee brackets are fine if you dont mind lowering the control arms further below the axle. The debate of many is that a 3" or 4" drop between the front and rear wheels poses clearance issues when rock crawling whereas with the Slees, they're between the front wheels which is easier to control by tire placement. Since I don't rock crawl my dd, the MAF 3" unit works out fine for me.
 
which bilstein shocks did you get wileetoyote?
 
FirstToy said:
which bilstein shocks did you get wileetoyote?

Damn...forget one word and it throws the meaning of my entire post off :whoops:

What it should have read was " Seeing that I just installed mine this past weekend and how it all came out, here's what I WOULD have put on for a 2.5" lift running 33's knowing what I know now..."

My mistake in all of this is that I went with the OME soft shocks thinking I wanted a 2.5" lift with a stock ride...big mistake. too much body roll...there's a thread thats been going around about just this subject
 
I also bought the med springs (851/860) and got the stink bug effect. now I'm gonna go back and add spacers... with all the info on this great site, there's no reason to make that mistake...I guess since I've never seen it first hand, you wonder "could it really be that bad? Answer is...YES!

Also, I have a two post car lift and can see the sway bar hit the driveshaft and stretch the rear brake lines at full droop. I'm gonna go back and add those as well.
 
Wilee, too bad your not 100% satisfied with the ride quality with your new set up. what are your thoughts on the OME kits?

I really don't want to put the time into brake lines when the 80 isn't going to drop departure angle enough to hit the bump stops. I Hope!
 
NorCalDoug said:
I'm currently have the low-rider of the group that I normally wheel with.

I have the OME heavies in the front and rear (non-Js).
What's nice about this set up is that the suspension change is relatively light, so you will not need to address extending brake lines, drop blocks for sway bars, etc.

I tend to carry a fairly large load of gear when I wheel so the heavies in the rear are a must. If you don't carry much, you might consider going with the medium springs.



That said...I'm saving up for the 6" kit...being the low-rider means that my undercarriage gets scraped up more than most...and that's not a good thing...

I am in the same boat that Doug is in as one of the low riders in the group. Having said that I love the 2.5" HD kit and setup that we have we did not spend that much money on it and it makes the rig so much better. It is cheep and easy and will vastly improve your rig. I have found the we can do about 95% of the trails that the taller rigs can do and somtimes even better. But it is that 5% and the less undercarriage damage etc. That now has us too saving for either a custom 4.5" or a 6" lift from the boys at Slee.:)

After seeing just how well the slee kits performed on road.
We say more lift more tire.

the 2.5"lift is the best bang for you buck

don't get the J's

Go 2.5 HD and 1-1.25" wheel spacers with some nice 285s and have fun.

:cheers:
Sam
 
How/where do you order wheel spacers? This too is new to the discussion...
 

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