Ran into problem with rear door latch install (1 Viewer)

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Hey everyone, I bought a set of brand new lock assemblies for my FJ40 rear doors from eBay. They were a pretty good deal, $125 for the pair (Parts numbers were: 69380-90800 and 69350-90302)

But, now while installing I noticed an issue and I'm not sure if it's because I got the wrong parts or I'm doing something wrong. My top latch works, my bottom latch is what was broken and I was only replacing it. But, after replacing it I noticed the latchbolt was hanging down too much. I can't slam the door closed, and if I do manage to close the door (by having the inside handle in the open position), I then can't reopen the rear door (the latch doesn't go up enough.

I don't know how I can raise the latchbolt by just a bit, like 0.4-0.5". I measured the length of the inside rod with the old one that was installed and they're the same. Only difference I found was the old latchbolt was shorter but not sure if thats what the body shop did to make it work or if I just have the wrong part.

If anyone has any ideas let me know! (I have an 1980 FJ).

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The latch is directional - the ramp side should be facing the latch plate as you push it closed. That big eye slot can be an adjustment point for the engagement via bolt/washer/nut/rod. There should also be adjustment at the handle. You can put washers under the feet of the latch on the inside to shim it up so it doesn't protrude as far.
 
I see what looks like a jam nut for adjusting the length on a screw thread, but if it is already as short as it goes you might have to cut and grind it shorter.
 
My microfiche set shows US and Canadian market for FJ40 and FJ55 for the period from 03/69 to 07/80. See the part numbers for latch assembly I'D as 69427. You may have an incorrect lower latch assembly, as the p/n doesn't track, unless your 1980 build date is later than 07/80.

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My microfiche set shows US and Canadian market for FJ40 and FJ55 for the period from 03/69 to 07/80. See the part numbers for latch assembly I'D as 69427. You may have an incorrect lower latch assembly, as the p/n doesn't track, unless your 1980 build date is later than 07/80.

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Ah thats what I figured, maybe the older models had slightly different sizes which explains why it's too tall for my car.
 
I have for the most part had great luck with ebay, I always ask the seller a "good" question before bidding - no answer no bid.
 
I'm not sure if this applies to your rig, but on my 79 FJ40 each latch linkage (top and bottom) was in two segments, connected by an adjusting bolt/loop near the handle mechanism for easy access (see diagram).

My original linkages and latches were long gone, but I found some used ones here. After a bit of tweaking it worked perfectly for my old truck.

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I'm not sure if this applies to your rig, but on my 79 FJ40 each latch linkage (top and bottom) was in two segments, connected by an adjusting bolt/loop near the handle mechanism for easy access (see diagram).

My original linkages and latches were long gone, but I found some used ones here. After a bit of tweaking it worked perfectly for my old truck.

View attachment 3801707
yeah thats what I think I will do, I just wanted to double check I hadn't done anything wrong before I started tinkering with things.

First thing I'll try is what one person suggested which is to try and raise it through the eye slot by using bolts to move the engagement point higher. If I can then manage to open and close the latch I'll be fine with it. If not I might make a small piece that connects in the eye slot but has a higher engagement point.
 
yeah thats what I think I will do, I just wanted to double check I hadn't done anything wrong before I started tinkering with things.

First thing I'll try is what one person suggested which is to try and raise it through the eye slot by using bolts to move the engagement point higher. If I can then manage to open and close the latch I'll be fine with it. If not I might make a small piece that connects in the eye slot but has a higher engagement point.
One more thought.

It looks like your aftermarket latches are pretty extended in your photos. My oem latches have some adjustment to them by screwing the eyelets further into the bolt so that they limit travel to within the latch housing.

Having those bolts hang outside the mechanism (like in your pics) can be risky to that fragile eyelet. I broke one that was rusty, but luckily still had enough slack in my adjustments to make it work after redrilling and tapping the eyelet/bolt connection.

It's too bad the latch isn't designed with stops on the eyelet end to keep the bolt from popping out when tension is released on the linkage. Anyway, once you get it installed and adjusted it shouldn't be an issue.

Good luck!
 
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One more thought.

It looks like your aftermarket latches are pretty extended in your photos. My oem latches have some adjustment to them by screwing the eyelets further into the bolt so that they limit travel to within the latch housing.

Having those bolts hang outside the mechanism (like in your pics) can be risky to that fragile eyelet. I broke one that was rusty, but luckily still had enough slack in my adjustments to make it work after redrilling and tapping the eyelet/bolt connection.

Good luck!

Yeah, my main issue is that the latches are extended too much and can't shorten them since the eyelets are already extended the furthest into the bolt, BUT you just made me think of something. I could cut a bit of the eyelet screw so that I can screw it in even further, that could help and should be easy to do with my Dremel especially since I have an extra latch lying around since I didn't replace the top one which is working fine.
 
Yeah, my main issue is that the latches are extended too much and can't shorten them since the eyelets are already extended the furthest into the bolt, BUT you just made me think of something. I could cut a bit of the eyelet screw so that I can screw it in even further, that could help and should be easy to do with my Dremel especially since I have an extra latch lying around since I didn't replace the top one which is working fine.
Yep, exactly. I picked up a cheap metric tap and die kit from Harbor Freight for that very purpose, putting new threads on that eyelet and the bolt. Great investment. I also use it all the time now to recondition rusty threads before I reassemble anything on my old FJ40.
 
Yep, exactly. I picked up a cheap metric tap and die kit from Harbor Freight for that very purpose, putting new threads on that eyelet and the bolt. Great investment. I also use it all the time now to recondition rusty threads before I reassemble anything on my old FJ40.

oh didn't think about putting new threads on the eyelet, I guess now I have a reason to get a tap & die set myself :D
 

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