Radiator or Water Pump or ? Help...

[red5033]

Ive got a near stock 1985 FJ60 with the stock 2F and about 135k miles on her. Over the course of the last year I notice that it is running warmer and warmer. It hasnt over heated yet but as time passes, and summer is in full swing here in Florida, its gotten uncomfortably close. I replaced the fan clutch, as I could easily stop the fan with a wisk broom, thinking it was bad. To no avail. I then replaced the thermostat...To no avail. Yesterday I fushed the entire coolong system, including draining the block. All the coolant looked good and I did not notice any rust or anything concerning. Well, its still running hot. So, Im left with the radiator and or the water pump (the belts are good and tight too). The water pump hasnt given me any indication it's bad, but neither has the radiator. Any suggestions or thoughts or any tests I can perform which might give me a clue? Thanks in advanced.

Red

 

[flybynight]

Radiator probably, coolant is probably moving. Does the temp drop with heater on? .....I just went through the same thing.The radiator was the last to get replaced. Unfortunately it went completely bad on the way to our camping location. Toyota dealer in Redding was happy to see me.

 

[jvazquez53]

I am having the same problem and everything points to the radiator.

 

[iacovellirob]

YES....radiator......all gunked up insidee no matter what cleaner you pour in.

 

[cruiserhunter]

Hey guys... chased overheating gremilins for about a year. Rebuilt fan clutch, New water pump, new thermostat. The thing that worked was getting my radiator recored. if you take it out yourself and bring the rad in it is pretty cheap. THat was the last step in my list before I got a brand new rad. I think it was like 50 bucks for the recor, cheapest I found was 200-250 for a new one. Good luck. If you give more precise info on exactly what was happening (ie describe how and when it over heats) the smarter people on hear will be able to help you.

best of luck
Patrick

 

[Cruiserdrew]

This comes up like once a month and it's always the radiator. If you are chasing an overheat, replace the whole system---radiator, cap, water pump and all of the hoses. Then you are good for another 100k at least.

 

[red5033]

Thanks for all the quick responses. A quick note; The temp runs warm whether the heat is on or not and this makes no difference (one of my 1st tests). The only time the temp does not get really high is on a cool morning or. It seems to run a hair cooler. on the other hand, I notice that when its idling in alot of stop and go traffic, the temp gets pretty close to the red (the original reason I suspected the fan clutch). If it is indeed the radiator (which its what it appears like), is there a non-FJ60 radiator that will swap in it place fro less $$ ? I priced them for the 60 and they arent cheap. The stock one served it well since new and there is no working AC on board so I dont need anything extreme. Thanks again..

Red

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Thanks for all the quick responses. A quick note; The temp runs warm whether the heat is on or not and this makes no difference (one of my 1st tests). The only time the temp does not get really high is on a cool morning or. It seems to run a hair cooler. on the other hand, I notice that when its idling in alot of stop and go traffic, the temp gets pretty close to the red (the original reason I suspected the fan clutch). If it is indeed the radiator (which its what it appears like), is there a non-FJ60 radiator that will swap in it place fro less $$ ? I priced them for the 60 and they arent cheap. The stock one served it well since new and there is no working AC on board so I dont need anything extreme. Thanks again..

Red

If there is a real old-time radiator shop in your town, take the radiator there and have is :re-cored" If that is done right it will be as good, or better than new. Expect to pay about $200. Ask for the 4 row core as well-you want the maximum cooling you can get.

Otherwise Performance Radiator has decent radiators on hand for a fair price. I have one of theirs in my fj60 now.

The fan clutch should be replaced as well, so the R&R effort is going to cost you some money. Once done, though, you can forget it for years.

 

[Rigger]

If you replace the radiator with a new one, you will have to decide where you are going to go to source a new one.

FWIW, I bought a new one from CCOT. Mine was slightly damaged in shipping. I think two other mudders had this same issue with CCOT radiators. I decided not to send mine back because I discovered the damage when I was in the middle of re-assembly and the resulting delay would have been a killer. I do not say this to flame CCOT. I just offer it up as a FWIW. In my opinion, CCOT and CCOT's source should package these in a way that better protects the filler neck.

My CCOT radiator was relatively inexpensive, is a 4-row design, appears to be of good quality, and it fit good. They also sent me a free CCOT license plate frame and a free set of wiper blades.

Removing the old radiator and installing the new one is actually a fun job. There's plenty written up on it. I had a good time with it and I got to know my '62 a little bit better in the process.

 

[flybynight]

Thanks for all the quick responses. A quick note; The temp runs warm whether the heat is on or not and this makes no difference (one of my 1st tests). The only time the temp does not get really high is on a cool morning or. It seems to run a hair cooler. on the other hand, I notice that when its idling in alot of stop and go traffic, the temp gets pretty close to the red (the original reason I suspected the fan clutch). If it is indeed the radiator (which its what it appears like), is there a non-FJ60 radiator that will swap in it place fro less $$ ? I priced them for the 60 and they arent cheap. The stock one served it well since new and there is no working AC on board so I dont need anything extreme. Thanks again..

Red

Does that include the rear heater......that is what really made the difference in mine. I can't comment on aftermarket product. But I do second the re-core advice. I had very few options due to time, so I got the oem radiator and labor cost in mine.

 

[jvazquez53]

I'm getting the radiator from my 60 cleaned soldered a small crack on the top, this includes removing and replaced for $80.00, which I think is a good price.

 

[TOYOTERO]

Im in Florida too and my 85 was working fine one day. I went mudding really hard and it started to OH. I changed the fan clutch, removed the thermostat. I ended up in the same situa.. as you are. Decided to go with the WP and guess what, still OHing. At last I changed the radiator and that was it. I bought an used one on ebay for about $100.00.

My advise, don't mess with the WP yet.

 

[sdbrassfield]

If you are going to remove the radiator (and have the funds) go ahead and do the water pump, stat, and hoses on the front of the motor while you are in there. It makes it alot easier to do a full cooling sys pm and will end up with a spare water pump and new hoses on the front of the motor. You are more than half way there and will be good for a long time. My .o2$