Questions on Lift Parts

[TheBoer]

Have a few basic questions that I'm sure have been asked here many times, but hoping for direct answers from knowledgeable folks before I pull the trigger on anything. Please explain like I'm 5. New to the lift game.

1) Lift parts, what do I really need to achieve this goal?—
Want to lift 2" or 2.5". Honestly it will be mainly a mall crawler, some weekend trips on forest service roads and power line trails, occasional trips to the beach or flat riverbank. So basically I'd like it to ride smoother on the road with a little off road capability. Was going to do a stage three non-kdss Ironman foam cell, then got to thinking, which is dangerous... Do I really need things like forged UCAs? Rear adjustable panhard bar + rear sway bar adjustable endlinks? Rear lower links? What do these things even do??

It's about a $1200 difference between the stage 1 vs stage 3 , which basically covers the wheels I want to get just in savings. But also don't want to be left wishing I had gone with a stage 3.

2) Lift brand / springs...
Noticed the ironman lifts only come with medium or heavy load springs, which if I'm understanding right will ride more stiff than something like a dobinsons lift kit with stock load springs. Should I just go with dobinson's kit with stock load springs if my main goal is for it to ride even more cushy on the road? More savings yet with dobinsons vs ironman, although I like how ironman has an installation center a couple hours from me.


Please help me shake free of this decision paralysis!

 

[McDuff123]

Have a few basic questions that I'm sure have been asked here many times, but hoping for direct answers from knowledgeable folks before I pull the trigger on anything. Please explain like I'm 5. New to the lift game.

1) Lift parts, what do I really need to achieve this goal?—
Want to lift 2" or 2.5". Honestly it will be mainly a mall crawler, some weekend trips on forest service roads and power line trails, occasional trips to the beach or flat riverbank. So basically I'd like it to ride smoother on the road with a little off road capability. Was going to do a stage three non-kdss Ironman foam cell, then got to thinking, which is dangerous... Do I really need things like forged UCAs? Rear adjustable panhard bar + rear sway bar adjustable endlinks? Rear lower links? What do these things even do??

It's about a $1200 difference between the stage 1 vs stage 3 , which basically covers the wheels I want to get just in savings. But also don't want to be left wishing I had gone with a stage 3.

2) Lift brand / springs...
Noticed the ironman lifts only come with medium or heavy load springs, which if I'm understanding right will ride more stiff than something like a dobinsons lift kit with stock load springs. Should I just go with dobinson's kit with stock load springs if my main goal is for it to ride even more cushy on the road? More savings yet with dobinsons vs ironman, although I like how ironman has an installation center a couple hours from me.


Please help me shake free of this decision paralysis!

Hi,
I can’t help with your 2nd question, other than to say I’ve anecdotally heard that Dobinsons ride quite softly/ comfortably.
As for your first question, I have the IronMan FCPs, with about 2.5” to 3” of lift front and rear. Quite happy with them. I would recommend their (or somebody else’s) UCA’s, as these will allow you to align the vehicle properly. Without them, steering gets very quick and dodgy when lifting beyond a certain point. IMO, the other items aren’t needed at that level of lift.
If you’re in the Portland area of the PNW, you’re welcome to check out how mine rides.

 

[TheBoer]

I apologize for being so clueless. I imagine some of you are probably laughing at me or shaking your heads, Lol

Hi,
I can’t help with your 2nd question, other than to say I’ve anecdotally heard that Dobinsons ride quite softly/ comfortably.
As for your first question, I have the IronMan FCPs, with about 2.5” to 3” of lift front and rear. Quite happy with them. I would recommend their (or somebody else’s) UCA’s, as these will allow you to align the vehicle properly. Without them, steering gets very quick and dodgy when lifting beyond a certain point. IMO, the other items aren’t needed at that level of lift.
If you’re in the Portland area of the PNW, you’re welcome to check out how mine rides.

Thank you for the answer! Stage 2 it is then.

And I might just take you up on that offer. Am in Eugene but come up to Portland once or twice a month.

 

[Rednexus]

I have the Ironman FCP Stage 2 kit with the 0-110# springs. It rides great loaded and unloaded.

I agree with skipping the adjustable panhard bar. Instead, have a Eimkeith panhard bar correction bracket welded on. It is inexpensive, easy to install for most any shop, and will keep your stock panhard bar level post-lift.

Regarding the adjustable rear sway bar links, they do help maintain articulation lifted but are a ripoff IMO. I DIY fabbed a set for around $50 and a bit of welding. If that is not an option for you, I'd shop around and get the cheapest set of adjustable swaybar links you can find.

I am running stock rear control arms with no issues. Most folks do as well unless they are heavy off-roading.

The actual lift is very easy to install, most any 4x4 or even a reputable general shop should be able to handle it within a few hours. Ironman has sales constantly, so make sure to wait until they have a 25% off or free UCA deal.

 

[r2m]

Agree with all the above.
Regarding which manufacturer to go with for suspension parts, Icon, Ironman, etc. are all very good, especially for what you want.
I'd suggest finding the lightest duty that'll give you the 2"-2.5" lift you want.
UCA's will help on a few different levels:
Alignment as mentioned above

• It may help with tire rubbing depending upon how large your tire size is, you can adjust the alignment to move forward a wee bit.
• Give you a little more articulation and room for the shocks. Some shocks may not work with factory UCA's.
• Looks kinda cool looking inside a wheel will especially with a shock reservoir, if you're into that sort of thing.

In short, I'd just try and find the best price that gives you the lift and ride you want.
Hope this helps.

 

[Banandalorian]

If you have a 460, you have KDSS - unless you plan on permanently disabling KDSS and doing something else with the OEM swaybars, you'll want a KDSS compatible lift.

Since your goal is to keep on-road driving comfort, you're going to need front upper control arms and either a panhard correction kit or an adjustable panhard bar (this is the angled bar between your rear axle and frame). Both of these items serve to correct the associated suspension geometry. Front UCAs allow you to maintain proper alignment after a lift. A panhard correction keeps the rear axle centered after the lift and fixes some potential weird behavior in turns. You're going to want those things to remain sorted and correct for daily driving

The Ironman kits are popular, well-reviewed, and either the Stage 2 or Stage 3 KDSS kit comes with UCAs, adjustable panhard, and rear KDSS spacers which should alleviate most of concerns with lifting a KDSS truck. The FCP shocks should also last a long time and can be rebuilt without special tools. The trade off for longevity and minimal maintenance is that the shock will be less sophisticated in damping/tuning than the high end monotube stuff. If you aren't really dialed into chassis dynamics or doing high speed and/or technical off-roading, you probably won't notice

I've been pouring through all the suspension stuff for GXs for the last 2 years and the Ironmans were high on my list for the reasons above. After all that, I decided to go with an adjustable setup because I am a suspension nerd. I am using the Ironman upper control arms because they should be zero maintenance and those 25% off sales are hard to pass up.

 

[TheBoer]

Agree with all the above.
Regarding which manufacturer to go with for suspension parts, Icon, Ironman, etc. are all very good, especially for what you want.
I'd suggest finding the lightest duty that'll give you the 2"-2.5" lift you want.
UCA's will help on a few different levels:
Alignment as mentioned above

• It may help with tire rubbing depending upon how large your tire size is, you can adjust the alignment to move forward a wee bit.
• Give you a little more articulation and room for the shocks. Some shocks may not work with factory UCA's.
• Looks kinda cool looking inside a wheel will especially with a shock reservoir, if you're into that sort of thing.

In short, I'd just try and find the best price that gives you the lift and ride you want.
Hope this helps.

Very helpful, thank you. Looking cool is always a plus

 

[TheBoer]

If you have a 460, you have KDSS - unless you plan on permanently disabling KDSS and doing something else with the OEM swaybars, you'll want a KDSS compatible lift.

Since your goal is to keep on-road driving comfort, you're going to need front upper control arms and either a panhard correction kit or an adjustable panhard bar (this is the angled bar between your rear axle and frame). Both of these items serve to correct the associated suspension geometry. Front UCAs allow you to maintain proper alignment after a lift. A panhard correction keeps the rear axle centered after the lift and fixes some potential weird behavior in turns. You're going to want those things to remain sorted and correct for daily driving

The Ironman kits are popular, well-reviewed, and either the Stage 2 or Stage 3 KDSS kit comes with UCAs, adjustable panhard, and rear KDSS spacers which should alleviate most of concerns with lifting a KDSS truck. The FCP shocks should also last a long time and can be rebuilt without special tools. The trade off for longevity and minimal maintenance is that the shock will be less sophisticated in damping/tuning than the high end monotube stuff. If you aren't really dialed into chassis dynamics or doing high speed and/or technical off-roading, you probably won't notice

I've been pouring through all the suspension stuff for GXs for the last 2 years and the Ironmans were high on my list for the reasons above. After all that, I decided to go with an adjustable setup because I am a suspension nerd. I am using the Ironman upper control arms because they should be zero maintenance and those 25% off sales are hard to pass up.

This is great info. Being a total newbie to suspension jargon I was unaware the GX is KDSS, would have been bad to learn that after I purchase a kit. Longevity and minimal maintenance are two things I want so definitely going with the ironman foam cells.