I have a SM465 and would like to mate it to my stock 2f motor. Could someone tell me what I will need to do to make this work. By the way I new to this site. I have an 85 fj60 stock, locked in the rear and 31's. From Arizona. Thanks for the help.
Question about sm465 tranny swap
- Thread starter Itsadryheat!!!
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Good luck! I am getting ready to do the same swap sometime this winter or next spring in my 1984 FJ60. Advanced Adapters has the adapter to go from the split t-case to a 2WD SM465.
Now I have just started gathering info on it, I think you need an F style bellhousing . I am still a bit confused on the clutch info. And hopefully someone will chime in with that.
I assume there will be some cutting of the floor to clear the taller SM465 (I have a 1in body lift so I might not have to as much), move and or fabricate that crossmember, fab up linkage and new driveshats.
Now I have just started gathering info on it, I think you need an F style bellhousing . I am still a bit confused on the clutch info. And hopefully someone will chime in with that.
I assume there will be some cutting of the floor to clear the taller SM465 (I have a 1in body lift so I might not have to as much), move and or fabricate that crossmember, fab up linkage and new driveshats.
You can use a stock cruiser flywheel and pressure plate with a chevy 11" clutch disc (most trucks had 11" clutches)
I believe that it IS possible to use the stock clutch disk but I have not tried it myself.
I believe that it IS possible to use the stock clutch disk but I have not tried it myself.
Edit: This is from Treeroot's 465 install.
You will need to modify four things on the SM465. The first is the front bearing retainer. It needs to be turned down to match the bell housing. Bruce Lawson offered to machine the parts for me and I cannot thank him enough for his help. The four bolts have to be replaced with Hex style bolts to clear the bell housing (5/16-18 x 7/8”).
The second is to sleeve the collar for the throw out bearing. A piece of exhaust pipe cut to 7cm has the correct inner and outer diameter (1 3/8” ID & 1 1/2” OD). Part #548530. Welding to cast can be done but I chose to solder the collar to the bearing retainer. Use acid flux solder, make sure everything is clean, and rough up both parts so there is a tooth on both parts for the solder to stick to. Heat will destroy the inner seal so why not just replace it. NAPA part #16054. The gasket between the bearing retainer and transmission is available at the dealer, part #12337932.
The new pilot bearing has a longer inner sleeve to support the input shaft of the SM465. The input shaft is approximately 1/4" shorter. I bought mine from A&W Bearing Supply ,800-535-9638. Part number BCA 202RRE. I pulled the info from a old TLCA BBS thread. If you have the transmission out of the truck, now is a good time to replace the rear main if it is leaking. Instead of the expensive SST, use the cone off the rear of a stock t-case. That and a rubber mallet work perfectly.
For the clutch assembly you can run either the 3-speed with the 3-speed flywheel or the 4-speed with the 4-speed flywheel. I reused the 4-speed throw out bearing, pressure plate, clutch fork, and flywheel. An 11” Chevy clutch disc replaces the stock disc because the splines are different. This was one of the biggest delays in this project because none of the major part stores will sell just the clutch disc. They only sell kits now. After some searching, Dial-A-Clutch came through with the disc. AutoZone is the only place I found that carries the alignment tool.
http://www.root45.com/SM465Orion/
You will need to modify four things on the SM465. The first is the front bearing retainer. It needs to be turned down to match the bell housing. Bruce Lawson offered to machine the parts for me and I cannot thank him enough for his help. The four bolts have to be replaced with Hex style bolts to clear the bell housing (5/16-18 x 7/8”).
The second is to sleeve the collar for the throw out bearing. A piece of exhaust pipe cut to 7cm has the correct inner and outer diameter (1 3/8” ID & 1 1/2” OD). Part #548530. Welding to cast can be done but I chose to solder the collar to the bearing retainer. Use acid flux solder, make sure everything is clean, and rough up both parts so there is a tooth on both parts for the solder to stick to. Heat will destroy the inner seal so why not just replace it. NAPA part #16054. The gasket between the bearing retainer and transmission is available at the dealer, part #12337932.
The new pilot bearing has a longer inner sleeve to support the input shaft of the SM465. The input shaft is approximately 1/4" shorter. I bought mine from A&W Bearing Supply ,800-535-9638. Part number BCA 202RRE. I pulled the info from a old TLCA BBS thread. If you have the transmission out of the truck, now is a good time to replace the rear main if it is leaking. Instead of the expensive SST, use the cone off the rear of a stock t-case. That and a rubber mallet work perfectly.
For the clutch assembly you can run either the 3-speed with the 3-speed flywheel or the 4-speed with the 4-speed flywheel. I reused the 4-speed throw out bearing, pressure plate, clutch fork, and flywheel. An 11” Chevy clutch disc replaces the stock disc because the splines are different. This was one of the biggest delays in this project because none of the major part stores will sell just the clutch disc. They only sell kits now. After some searching, Dial-A-Clutch came through with the disc. AutoZone is the only place I found that carries the alignment tool.
http://www.root45.com/SM465Orion/
Last edited: