My use for it has not been camping but for jobs. I have a Ryobi 6 battery bank charger that will top off all my batteries as I drive from one place to the next. I have a 1000 watt inverter sitting in my garage but haven’t found the need to install it on the cruiser yet. I’m more likely to put it on my camper should the need ever arise, but even then I don’t think I will need it. I mounted a 3000 watt inverter generator on the tongue so I’m good on power in just about any situation.
Question about inverters
- Thread starter bronc076
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stonekutters
SILVER Star
Work is a completely different ballgame, makes sense in that regard.
FWIW if anyone starts going the electric lawn tool route EGO has a couple portable power options. I have almost all their tools but most notably their ride mower which came with 4 of their 56v 10ah Batts. I bought their portable power station at only $500 since already have the batteries. It's around $1k with a couple batteries included. Thing is awesome. Using it everytime we camp and all over the property to run power tools. Also have a 150w inverter for $50-$100, much smaller. Probably not worth it for most people but just in case it may be a two birds one stone situation for anyone.
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Not really. The wiring is too small to run a larger capacity inverter.
I do this too with the Ego equipment. Great solution.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Makes sense. I was thinking of my personal setup where I have a 6ga wire to the cargo area, so I probably have enough juice to run one. I was just thinking the Tacoma is so common that the parts might be readily available, inexpensive and the install would probably look factory clean.
Pretty much everything as been said but my 0.02.
I have fairly extensive experience with solar and inverters (for a non-electrician DIYer). First I did a basic solar set up and switched from 12v deep cycle to #2 6v batteries in series and a 1500w inverter on our travel trailer. Then I went all out and put a 7kw hybrid on/off grid with an 8 kWh battery bank and 9k generator back up for the back up. I also have a gen 1 Goalzero yeti 400 as well as other solar and battery options.
We are in Alaska and camp off grid much of the summer for up to 3 weeks at a time. My 1500w inverter will run everything in my camper except the AC and microwave. That said we do cowboy coffee and toast on the propane stove but if runs a hair dryer and will run a coffee maker.
For the money I personally think goal zero has fallen behind. I haven’t used my yeti in 3-4 years. This Aukey 20w fold out is the best packable solar panel I own, it will charge pretty much any usb device as quick as a 110 outlet. Last summer I got this Lionenergy set up at Costco for $179 a 20w panel and 120 Wh battery with a 115w inverter. Pretty impressed with it so far.
I have fairly extensive experience with solar and inverters (for a non-electrician DIYer). First I did a basic solar set up and switched from 12v deep cycle to #2 6v batteries in series and a 1500w inverter on our travel trailer. Then I went all out and put a 7kw hybrid on/off grid with an 8 kWh battery bank and 9k generator back up for the back up. I also have a gen 1 Goalzero yeti 400 as well as other solar and battery options.
We are in Alaska and camp off grid much of the summer for up to 3 weeks at a time. My 1500w inverter will run everything in my camper except the AC and microwave. That said we do cowboy coffee and toast on the propane stove but if runs a hair dryer and will run a coffee maker.
For the money I personally think goal zero has fallen behind. I haven’t used my yeti in 3-4 years. This Aukey 20w fold out is the best packable solar panel I own, it will charge pretty much any usb device as quick as a 110 outlet. Last summer I got this Lionenergy set up at Costco for $179 a 20w panel and 120 Wh battery with a 115w inverter. Pretty impressed with it so far.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Nope, not cheap, even used. But I was shocked by how inexpensively you can buy inverters on eBay. Then I remembered that I don’t have anything to use with one…
NY2LA
SILVER Star
This sounds like a great setup. Any pics of it? I was using the Yeti car charging cable for my 1500x, but now that I have an Expansion tank connected to the 1500x, I can't use the car charging cable anymore (unless I switch plugs). So I'm curious about your alternative approach to charge off the car battery.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
EDIT: At first I had the wrong wire gauges going to/from the Orion. Sorry.
We've had this on a couple of trips and it has worked really well for us.
- The Odyssey battery & the Anderson SB50 connector is mounted on Slee's tray.
- Heavy lines are 6GA wire but 8/10 GA from the Orion to the Anderson PP45.
REDARC/2nd battery rationale:
- It's always there.
- Can jump start my or another vehicle - the Yeti can not do this.
- Could be used for any 12V load such as lighting, compressor etc...
- Supports solar
- Supplies 12V, USB & 2000W pure sine power.
- It's portable.
- Supports solar
- Can be configured/monitored on our phone even while driving.
- Configurable as a power supply -the mode I use for charging the Yeti.
- Input voltages can be set so it turns off before starter battery is drained.
- I have it so that if it's charging the Yeti it turns off literally in seconds after stopping the engine.
- Output voltages can be set to satisfy the Yeti's charging needs.
- Can be configured/monitored on our phone even while driving.
- It puts out a whopping 380W according to the Yeti 1500X.
OK - so here's the Victron setup - please be kind - I had 1 day before our 1st trip to put this together.
- I realize perhaps a GI ammo can or some sort of other enclosure might be better and I'll entertain that for the future.
If the unit were ever accidentally left in an enclosed can I think it would certainly burn up so I went with the open design.
OK so it's crude but it meets a few crucial requirements:
- It had to work - which it does, thankfully LOL.
- No mods to the car.
- Cooling for the Orion had to be passive or active (with blower).
- Had to be simple, sturdy and able to be placed/strapped literally anywhere e.g. in the Cruiser, to a tree etc...
- I bungee it to the top of the Yeti 1500X while driving.
- Cost had to be zero $; it was made 100% with stuff I had lying around.
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Maybe I am misunderstanding what you are trying to do, but I do not see a need for the Victron Orion charger. The Yeti should be perfectly capable of charging directly from the engine batteries, and should have the low voltage shutoff protection (I haven't read the manual to confirm however).
That aside, why the 12/24-15 and not a 12/12-30? Seems like keeping everything 12V would be more versatile.
That aside, why the 12/24-15 and not a 12/12-30? Seems like keeping everything 12V would be more versatile.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
No.
The Yeti X series uses 2 inputs for charging: the 8mm input and the Andersom PP45. Behind those 2 ports is a MPPT solar controller to charge at high wattage. The Yeti will not charge at all below 14V, I tried it. Earlier versions of the Yeti used a PWM controller for high wattage charging which would charge at 12V. This subtle change to their product line burned a lot of people who bought solar panels for use with earlier Yeti's that were regulated to 12V which will now not work on the X series.
If you look at the specs of the 1500X it states:
- Charging port (input, 8mm): 14-50V, up to 10A (150W max) (front face/under lid)
- High Power charging port (input): 14-50V, up to 50A (600W max)
Yeti 1500X Portable Power Station | Goal Zero - https://www.goalzero.com/shop/portable-power/goal-zero-yeti-1500x-portable-power-station/
Well that's no good. For the price of the Yeti you would figure it could be charged directly off the battery.
They do offer a charging cable. Looks like a simple voltage converter.
www.goalzero.com
If all you need is a higher voltage, you could get a simple DC converter for much less than the Orion. Something like this:
Amazon product ASIN B01EFUHGMU
Nothing wrong with the Orion though. I have one and love it.
They do offer a charging cable. Looks like a simple voltage converter.
Yeti 12V Car Charging Cable
short Used to safely and efficiently charge a Sherpa 100AC, Goal Zero Yeti X, Lithium, or Lead-Acid from a 12V source, featuring a protective 15A user-replaceable fuse. tech PORTS Input: 12V Male Cigarette Output: 8 mm (12V, up to 10A) GENERAL Product SKU: 98079 Cord Dims: 120 x 2.5 x 1 in...
www.goalzero.com
If all you need is a higher voltage, you could get a simple DC converter for much less than the Orion. Something like this:
Amazon product ASIN B01EFUHGMU
Nothing wrong with the Orion though. I have one and love it.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
I looked at their 12V charger and determined it would take way too long to recharge the Yeti. I might buy one anyway just for a backup as they're cheap.Well that's no good. For the price of the Yeti you would figure it could be charged directly off the battery.
They do offer a charging cable. Looks like a simple voltage converter.
View attachment 2758894
Yeti 12V Car Charging Cable
short Used to safely and efficiently charge a Sherpa 100AC, Goal Zero Yeti X, Lithium, or Lead-Acid from a 12V source, featuring a protective 15A user-replaceable fuse. tech PORTS Input: 12V Male Cigarette Output: 8 mm (12V, up to 10A) GENERAL Product SKU: 98079 Cord Dims: 120 x 2.5 x 1 in...
If all you need is a higher voltage, you could get a simple DC converter for much less than the Orion. Something like this:
Amazon product ASIN B01EFUHGMU
Nothing wrong with the Orion though. I have one and love it.
As for the simple step-up transformers, I considered those too but they have no monitoring capability. Also, the Yeti will draw up to 600W to charge. I wasn't sure how those step-up transformers would handle the load. Would they burn up? The Victron units have lots of safety features and will current limit based on temperature. I watched it do it, lowering the output as it got VERY hot (too hot to touch) and raising it as I activated the blower. The Orion also will shut itself off at a configured input voltage. That means we can stop for gas/lunch and not worry about the starter battery draining. As I mentioned, I have the Orion tuned so it shuts off seconds after stopping. I'd hate to stop for lunch and come back to a dead battery. Of course I could always jump start with the 2nd Odyssey battery LOL.
NY2LA
SILVER Star
Lots of great info in this thread! Thank you @FrazzledHunter for sharing your setup!!!
I myself was using the EC8 cable from GZ that connects directly to the battery, and it was awesome. I was sometimes getting more than the 360W (if I recall correctly) when connected directly to the car battery. Also, in "Charging mode," the Yeti MPPT controller only charged the Yeti via the EC8 cable when the car was running. So I never drained my battery.
However, I can no longer use it, since I have the Expansion Tank connected into the 1500X EC8 port. So I'm going to borrow your approach of using the Victron. I'm going to use the EC8 cord as my electrical supply from the car battery and just adapt the incoming end to go into the Victron. I think the Victron is a good idea even for folks who don't use an expansion tank, because the Victron can also be used to charge other types of batteries in case future needs change.
I had a lengthy call with a GZ Tech person the other day, and I asked them about this approach. Obviously, they were cautious and couldn't endorse a specific third-party solution. But he did warn me that others have fried their Yetis by feeding uncontrolled power into them through the HPP (Anderson) port. He didn't have anything adverse to say, though, when I described the Victron unit's approach to charging and it's controlled 360W output.
He also warned me that the HPP port on the Yeti is governed by an MPPT controlled inside the unit. He said if the charging device also had MPPT functionality, there could be a conflict that could cause problems. But this doesn't seem to be relevant to the Victron unit.
So I'm going to try it.
A question:
1) How does that standard Anderson connector going into the Yeti HDD port fit? You have to twist the heads 90 degrees, right? I'm thinking about going a slightly different path on that cord by ordering GZ's HDD to solar adapter and cutting off the solar ends to attach the wires directly to the Victron.
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FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
Apologies for the long post. I'll answer your question and then you can continue on reading if you're interested.
Anderson PP45 connectors come two ways: as separate individual connectors or fused. If you order them as separate connectors you can slide them together any way you want even in a bundle of 4, 6 8 etc... If you order them fused then you order them vertical or horizontal. Whatever you do, get a vinyl boot to slide over them as it will help the connector stay inserted in the Yeti.
Brccee AC 10PCS FR PVC Cover Flame Retardant Sleeve for Anderson Powerpole Connector Housing
Perhaps you have a good crimper, I do not, so I had Powerwerx make my cables for me:
Custom DC Power Cables | Powerwerx - https://powerwerx.com/custom-dc-power-cables
If interested then read on McDuff!
I have concluded Goal Zero does not have a good car charging option. And how could they? Would they say "buy our unit X, put a 50A line to your battery/alternator through to your passenger compartment, fuse and ground it properly and you're good to go"? Nope. I don’t think so. LOL. The only way you could go all Goal zero would be to wire in your own 2000W inverter and plug their 230W or 600W AC charger on to that.
Regarding Goal Zero, the MPPT solar controller and interoperability:
IMHO, Goal Zero did a good thing by building a MPPT solar controller into their unit on the X series. The outputs on the X series are also regulated. This eliminates the need to have separate regulating devices on the charging inputs and supply outputs. But you have to understand the quirks. Not every manufacturer does what Goal Zero did so you will find that charging directly off the alternator/battery using the other 12-12V Orion or just directly with cables may work for other vendors. There are reasons that I went with Goal Zero that are beyond the scope of this thread.
Consider what their MPPT solar controller has to cope with:
Goal Zero itself makes 3 AC chargers, multiple solar panels and they advertise interoperability with solar panels made by others provided they stay within their advertised parameters. Their 3 AC chargers are rated at 120W (it comes with this one), 230W and 600W. The latter two use the Anderson input. So that MPPT controller is pretty robust, I deduced.
Regarding the Victron (a good volt meter is your friend):
*Remember that 80F temperature?
I first tried integrating the car with the Yeti in the dead of winter and was puzzled by what I observed. I was actually able to get the Yeti to charge direct-connect to the battery without the Orion in the dead of winter for a couple of minutes when the car started. Why? The LC's alternator is voltage and temperature sensing. It raises the voltage in colder weather and lowers it in warmer weather. On measurement, in very cold weather the alternator put out over 14V briefly until the battery charged and the engine compartment warmed up. Once it did the alternator dropped its voltage and the Yeti completely stopped charging. I saw the same thing happen from my 2nd battery which is connected to the REDARC but only in cold weather; it appeared the REDARC does the same thing. I tried the same test again when the weather warmed up and that minute of direct charging without the Orion dropped to a few seconds. Don't be fooled into thinking you can charge the Yeti X straight off the 12V systems like I was attempting initially. If you're wondering whether or not I drove around town doing errands with a voltmeter checking the battery voltage at each destination you're right. I did. LOL.
I remember my dad and me piling into my parents’ 1960 Rambler with all of our stuff to go weekend tent camping with some friends. Just as we’re about to leave my mother flies out of the house holding something yelling that we had forgotten the marshmallow forks. Today I’m convinced she’d be carrying a multi-meter.
Anderson PP45 connectors come two ways: as separate individual connectors or fused. If you order them as separate connectors you can slide them together any way you want even in a bundle of 4, 6 8 etc... If you order them fused then you order them vertical or horizontal. Whatever you do, get a vinyl boot to slide over them as it will help the connector stay inserted in the Yeti.
Brccee AC 10PCS FR PVC Cover Flame Retardant Sleeve for Anderson Powerpole Connector Housing
Perhaps you have a good crimper, I do not, so I had Powerwerx make my cables for me:
Custom DC Power Cables | Powerwerx - https://powerwerx.com/custom-dc-power-cables
If interested then read on McDuff!
I have concluded Goal Zero does not have a good car charging option. And how could they? Would they say "buy our unit X, put a 50A line to your battery/alternator through to your passenger compartment, fuse and ground it properly and you're good to go"? Nope. I don’t think so. LOL. The only way you could go all Goal zero would be to wire in your own 2000W inverter and plug their 230W or 600W AC charger on to that.
Regarding Goal Zero, the MPPT solar controller and interoperability:
IMHO, Goal Zero did a good thing by building a MPPT solar controller into their unit on the X series. The outputs on the X series are also regulated. This eliminates the need to have separate regulating devices on the charging inputs and supply outputs. But you have to understand the quirks. Not every manufacturer does what Goal Zero did so you will find that charging directly off the alternator/battery using the other 12-12V Orion or just directly with cables may work for other vendors. There are reasons that I went with Goal Zero that are beyond the scope of this thread.
Consider what their MPPT solar controller has to cope with:
Goal Zero itself makes 3 AC chargers, multiple solar panels and they advertise interoperability with solar panels made by others provided they stay within their advertised parameters. Their 3 AC chargers are rated at 120W (it comes with this one), 230W and 600W. The latter two use the Anderson input. So that MPPT controller is pretty robust, I deduced.
Regarding the Victron (a good volt meter is your friend):
- It can function as a battery Charger with different battery charging profiles or as a Power Supply. Set it to be a Power Supply by choosing Function->Power Supply in the app. This eliminates any notion that it has any MPPT or other quirky characteristics. That you can do this is why I love Victron.
- Set the output voltage to 24V.
- Set the input voltage lockout and restart values to be something based on your car's unique characteristics. For example, this morning my 2018 LC with the OEM battery had, after sitting for 2 days, an engine off voltage of 12.52V @ 80F.*
- Your running voltage will vary so set the lockout accordingly. You want the Victron to shut off very quickly when you stop the car – ideally within seconds.
- My LC charged while idling at 13.97 volts after starting with an early instantaneous spike or two at 14.1V.
- It then settled to 13.9V after about 5 minutes at idle.
- Once the engine was off the battery read 12.67V.
- Set the Orion's lockout value to 12.8V and the restart value to 13.5V and you should be fine at all temperatures. But check on your own to see what YOUR car does and set accordingly.
*Remember that 80F temperature?
I first tried integrating the car with the Yeti in the dead of winter and was puzzled by what I observed. I was actually able to get the Yeti to charge direct-connect to the battery without the Orion in the dead of winter for a couple of minutes when the car started. Why? The LC's alternator is voltage and temperature sensing. It raises the voltage in colder weather and lowers it in warmer weather. On measurement, in very cold weather the alternator put out over 14V briefly until the battery charged and the engine compartment warmed up. Once it did the alternator dropped its voltage and the Yeti completely stopped charging. I saw the same thing happen from my 2nd battery which is connected to the REDARC but only in cold weather; it appeared the REDARC does the same thing. I tried the same test again when the weather warmed up and that minute of direct charging without the Orion dropped to a few seconds. Don't be fooled into thinking you can charge the Yeti X straight off the 12V systems like I was attempting initially. If you're wondering whether or not I drove around town doing errands with a voltmeter checking the battery voltage at each destination you're right. I did. LOL.
I remember my dad and me piling into my parents’ 1960 Rambler with all of our stuff to go weekend tent camping with some friends. Just as we’re about to leave my mother flies out of the house holding something yelling that we had forgotten the marshmallow forks. Today I’m convinced she’d be carrying a multi-meter.
NY2LA
SILVER Star
Thank for your this information! I went the lazy man's route for my cord and just ordered a 2-foot ebay version of one of these: MC4 Solar to HPP Adapter Cable MC4 Solar to HPP Adapter Cable - https://www.goalzero.com/shop/accessories/mc4-solar-ap-adapter-cable/. I plan to cut the MC4 connectors off and then just insert the ends into the Orion.
Really helpful to get all your voltage information. Thank you!
Really helpful to get all your voltage information. Thank you!
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
Glad I could help and good luck!
NY2LA
SILVER Star
@FrazzledHunter I am installing my Victron unit now. What did you choose for absorb and float voltage under battery settings? Did you just keep the default settings? I'm assuming that the MPPT controller built into the Yeti cuts off the incoming power as needed, but not sure if the Victron's default settings could cause any performance issues.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
You apparently have the Victron set up as a battery charger. You need to change the Function to Power Supply. Once you do your choices become much simpler as all the entries pertaining to battery charging go away.
Per my previous post:
It can function as a battery Charger with different battery charging profiles or as a Power Supply. Set it to be a Power Supply by choosing Function->Power Supply in the app. This eliminates any notion that it has any MPPT or other quirky characteristics. That you can do this is why I love Victron.
