Puzzling electrical mystery: power comes back on...!

[e9999]

thanks for all comments


current panel is Westinghouse with small Bryant breakers. As mentioned the main breaker is a Zinsco looking affair (no brand stamped on it), style QFP.

Local main supplier (California Electric Supply, part of CED) sold me a Cutler Hammer box which matches very well in outside dimensions.
This is a BR series, model MBE2040B200BTF semi flush. Says also F042 and "DS-H2 Hub bottom / RH-P top (what does that mean?)

Are the CH OK and good to use? One minor advantage over the SqD is that I could reuse all my little breakers for now. Those look fine (I'll check for pitting). They could be changed later on I'd want to make sure that this CH thing is good and not gonna give me obsolete parts trouble in 10 years. Home Depot carries Murray, which is also compatible breakers, I believe. One guy told me that some inspectors will insist on all same brand breakers in the box though.

Talked to the supplier. He says that CH is very good, been around a long time, big company, few if any returns. Says most panels around town are CH. (Of course, he sells them, but I trust the guy.) I asked about the square D QO mentioned above. He sells them too and commented that those are good if expensive but didn't encourage me to get one.


If I replace the whole panel inside the wall, things to look out for / do?


edit: talked to an electrician, he says that the C-H is what he would use rather than the square D. Good quality, been around, much closer fit configuration wise.

thanks

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

thanks for all comments


current panel is Westinghouse with small Bryant breakers. As mentioned the main breaker is a Zinsco looking affair (no brand stamped on it), style QFP.

Local main supplier (California Electric Supply, part of CED) sold me a Cutler Hammer box which matches very well in outside dimensions.
This is a BR series, model MBE2040B200BTF semi flush. Says also F042 and "DS-H2 Hub bottom / RH-P top (what does that mean?)

Are the CH OK and good to use? One minor advantage over the SqD is that I could reuse all my little breakers IIUC. Those look fine (I'll check for pitting). They could be changed later on if needed. I'd want to make sure that this CH thing is good and not gonna give me obsolete parts trouble in 10 years. Home Depot carries Murray, which is also compatible breakers, I believe. One guy told me that some inspectors will insist on all same brand breakers in the box though.

Talked to the supplier. He says that CH is very good, been around a long time, big company, few if any returns. (Of course, he sells them, but I trust the guy.) I asked about the square D QO mentioned above. He sells them too but commented that those are expensive and didn't encourage me to get one. Must be a top of the line thing? Sounds like most use SqD Homeline instead.

Talked to the building guys at the county. Sounds like the California Electrical code basically says that anything done besides replacing a breaker needs a permit. The issue of replacing innards also sounded iffy as that would/might affect UL certification. So I may have to bite the bullet and replace the whole panel rather than try to repair the old one. The permit fee at the county is quite expensive, of course. Damn cash cow for them...

If I replace the whole panel inside the wall, things to look out for / do?

thanks

After reading your post Im shocked you drive a Land Cruiser when there are so many cheaper SUV available.

 

[e9999]

After reading your post Im shocked you drive a Land Cruiser when there are so many cheaper SUV available.

actually, I can afford a LC cuz I try not to spend $1,500 on a new built-in panel job if I can legitimally and safely buy a retrofit kit for $200 that will do the same exact job, meet code etc. Sort of like why pay a Toyota dealer $1,500 for a new full wiring job if you can just replace the one OEM fuse box for $200...


That's what I'm in the process of trying to figure out now.

Given up on the idea of resuscitating the old hardware. Less safe way to go. Now to see if I can do a smart retrofit or have to do a new box in a big new hole in the wall. Apparently, Cutler Hammer sells retrofit kits just for this purpose, and says that it is OK per code.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

If the distribution busswork is bad, then the whole panel is bad. If the main can be changed out w/o re engineering the panel, then that would be something I would consider to do a cheap fix- as long as all parts are bolt in. If the distribution busswork is in doubt, then the panel must be changed. You could maybe scab in a buss from another panel, but if it is not IDENTICAL, it will become a risk at best. I am not certain just how worn or damaged your set up is, but again, if it cannot be repaired w/ BOLT-IN parts, I would NOT repair it. Best course would be to just replace and bite bullet for another 30-40 years. POSSIBLE that it don't have to go that far- you need a pro who is not trying to get rich to have a good look in order to determine that. HTH

 

[LK1]

Two things I really do not cut corners with in my house are electricity and gas.

Bad things happen when they fail.

As an aside, when I was a new homeowner i hired an electrician and didn't have him pull a permit to save a few bucks (this was 1991).

He agreed to replace the whole breaker box and upgrade the service to 200 AMPs.

Turns out he did replace the box, just not the breakers in it, which I discovered about 3 years later when one failed and another electrician was wiring up my alarm system.

I say if your county requires it, pull the permit and have the town inspector come out and give his OK.

Your family's lives are worth way more than a few bucks.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Yes, inspections can be good things. Definitely don't use someone who tries to tell you NOT to pull a permit.....

 

[e9999]

yup, no cutting corner on safety for sure.


added: Done. Replaced all, inspected and everything. Good for another 20 years I hope.

 

[splitshot]

Any pics?
Clean work is a sign of a contractor who has pride at what he does. Most my work has been installing sub panels, and have run into some ugly crap from the "slap and go" companies.

 

[John Smith]

yup, no cutting corner on safety for sure.


added: Done. Replaced all, inspected and everything. Good for another 20 years I hope.

So you finally decided to install a brand new panel and breakers? Good idea, as electrical fires are no fun.