Puzzled (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 3, 2004
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:confused: Ok I am confused again/so more. I replaced a dead alt, even tested bad, and while driving Yesterday the engine just stopped. I started pulling over and shifted to neutral still nothing. When I stopped I Put it in park nothing, no clicks no fuelpump whine, nothing. I am thinking a neutral safety switch. So I poke around the transmission wiring get in still nothing. Try messing under the hood nothing, then out of the blue I turn the key and it works. Start home happens again but before I can stop I shift to neutral and it starts no problem.
Get home dies again, try all of the usuals nothing. Go in to turn on the drive way lights come back it starts. So whats wrong? Over a year ago I put a Vortec in with a 4L60E it has been the usual little bugs getting it to 100%. Now this, is it the nuetral safety switch? The ignition? The Land Cruiser gods pissed at the chevy? IF you shift to neutral or park there are no sounds just like trying to start in gear and the neatral safety switch kills everything. ANy one had similar puzzles? Thanks for the input. Ya know I don't think I'll ever get this thing done!!! :beer:
 
Ok it is a new alt. maybe a bad one? It looks like is is charging when it is running. WHen I try to restart I get nothing, no click no fuel pump nothing that is why I have not looked at the alt. Could the alt be bad with those symptoms? Thanks fsusteve
 
shot in the dark here, but i had a similar problem with our 80, turned out to be bad starter contacts. search the 80's threads for starter and there is a good description on how to replace them yourself. good luck.
 
Dying while running is usually an altenator or short/bad ground issue. If you got the altenator at a Discount Dummies place it could be bad off the shelf, ask me how I know. Not starting from the get go does sound like a starter/solenoid issue too.
 
Ok I'm going with a ground issue. I did some wiring on the trany a while back I'll start there. I think I wana sell and get a diesel!!!!
 
See what you mean about diesel, so we need to figure out how to run on .....Hydrogen??? Nuclear???
Solar??? Stilll can't find the short on the dino fuel vortec.
 
I would check the fuel pump.... vortecs are extremely sensitive to fuel pressure. 5psi drop and your walking. just because it seems like you have good fuel pressure dosen't meen that it is correct.
 
Hey I need to thank you for your response and I have some questions about your ALt issues. I worked on my cruiser and still have the same problem, dies out of the blue will not restart, no fuel pump whine no click from starter. I am thinking it is not either the fuel pump or starter, it has to be a short some where. I went through all of the wiring harness and found nothing. Now my alt question if there is a short in the alt and the truck dies shouldn't it restart after you cycle the key? Could it be a fusable link from the battery The Toyota wires has three from a large connector at the Battery. Electricl stuff is not my thing. thanks for the help.
 
Battery is alive and well, after some time the thing just restarts. Is there some safety program in the Vortec PCM that would prevent a restart for X mins, after sensing a sort? No codes though.
 
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Still no luck I started trying to recreate the short and symptoms by pulling wires and I think it could be the old plug next to the pos bat treminal. I keep you guys posted about the progress.
 
Just an up date on my mistry short, after redoing, cussing, & praying the problem seems to be the Stock GM wire from the Battery to the vortec fuse block. The battery connector sems to be bad inside the lead, it does not wiggle but it does slip back and forth. I'm replacing it tonight and we'll see if shes done. Thanks for the help and have a great Tday week. JL
 
It usually pays to start with the simple stuff and work your way down the list. Bad battery connections and grounds have left a lot of people mystified and walking.

I fixed all this stuff on my 60, but left the lights on anyway, and had to beg a jump. Glad I carry cables...

Mike S
 
I think the cruiser gods must be happy again it sems to be ok now. Just one of those strange things God drops on me to keep me honest and humble.
 
i had similar probs on my 62 with electrical gremlins. i knew something was f/u electrically, but had the worst time finding it. i completely stripped the inside down to the metal and wires. went thuroughly thru and found some wiring problems needing a fix, but not the cause of this mother fawking 2 month ordeal. i hoped it was something inside b/c would be an easier and cheaper part replacing issue, but searched with no luck. then checked everything outside the body and found more non-related problems that i fixed, but still no luck. then i tracked the wire loom from battery to comp. and ignition. had discrepencies in what the voltages on some wires should be and one set of starting( ign., fuel pump relay, fuse setup for each, fuel pump, and power wire to fuel injectors, and a few others) tryed one fix on the three wire coming off the pos terminal on battery. one was a little messed up and loose coming out of the seperater plug just off the battery. so i replaced that one wire and reran a new wire to (seemed smart at the time) make d@mn sure that the wire problem was fixed with no possabilities that some other point in the old wire was also messed up. so with finally fixing that problem. she started after a month and a week of ripping apart, angrily searching, and hopelessly praying for an answer to the problem of no starty. 15 min. within fixing, put the hood back on, some of the dash, just enought to runher right and to loosely mount the guages, and throught the seats back in. loaded up the off road gear and a small radio for tunes and took off for the long awaited offroad adventure. we left my house at midnight. we returned ready to kill each other three hours later. why? you ask, hahahaha!!!! my brilliant fix was not thurough or not the complete fix to what my prob. was. the new wire taped and fitted to look stock within the oem loom, completely fried up and burnt thru its protective surround and thru partial layers of some close and/ or touching wires' surrounding (rubber/ plastic, whatever the wires are coated with). so for another month in frustration and with wheels and offroading, i searched and found that in a (i assume this is why, at least, i feel is the only reason for this) prior head gasket and seals cleaning and replacement, when reassembling, the wires weren't installed right and the main power wire running to all the injectors was positioned to close to something sharp, or hot. either way, it melted and touched some metal and grounded part of the engine/ efi component. caused the electrical malfunction and strained the power input running from battery to injectors, which has many connecting parts and pieces. and in the final strain caused the weakest point along that power supply line to fry and hence the destruction and hault to my driving and my enjoyment, and my stress releasing balls to the walls anyroute accepted offroading. maybe this gives you some things to check out. and atleast reminds us all that even though we fixed what imediatly seemed to be wrong, there is possibly an underlying and ultimate cause to the problem we assume is fixed. so be thurough and check any and all possibilities and fix anything that is questionable and/or should at some point be fixed. and keep your eyes open for things that may be a future problem.

sorry so long but i am sure some of you will get a good laugh at my kick in the a$$ repair event. oh yeah, the wire i had replaced fried 45 min. from my house just outside a grocery store, the only thing around for a few miles. called a fried for help. he had to come to us, pick up my roommate who went back to our house picked up his truck and trailer. came back to get me had to use a third truck to pull my cruiser from angel with cable, to get me up on the trailer. then we finally got on the road back home, so i could piss away my anger with a case and 1/2 of beer. woke up ready to continue the search day later. order a set of engine wire loom from sor, but didn't contain the set of wires i needed although that is not made clear not did the attempt to clearify or correct me when i called and explained what i needed. overnighted that. then in excitment to finally fix the prob. opened the box to find wires that were irrealevent to my needs. called them and payed more for the set i needed, payed for overnight. after having spent a day explaining what the exact wires were and finally after they denyed what i said i had recieved and what was supposedly included with their set i first bought, they realized that the set i needed were kept with the engines when they parted out cruisers. so they took one from an engine and sent it out. that was the final fix, and i made sure to install it properly and took extra time and zip ties to make sure that the loom would stay permanently safe from hot parts and binds, or any sharp metal edges and any imaginable causing situation to that ever happening again. but i feel it is now better than stock.

so hope you get some laughs, but hope you also get some advise.
 
Thanks for the help and info. I think I got my gremlins fixed too. I'm back on/off the road and plnning new mods for lockers and rock bars and speakers and ....... soo things are good. Thanks again.
 

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