PTO Winch info.

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Joined
Jul 5, 2009
Threads
28
Messages
687
Location
Hrevey Bay. QLD.
Hi all.
Am fitting an erly Toyota 40 winch on to a HJ47.
I have got a late sharft with the pully block that bolts on the chassis, but am missing the end that fits on the winch. I need to know what length is the splined half of the winch fitting. The one in the picture is from the pto drive end. If this fitting is the same as the frount one i can use it with the pice off the old that has the shear pin hole.

pto youk.webp
 
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Crudely . . . 3-5/8" first photo; 4-7/8" second photo; 5-5/8" third photo.

View attachment 897905 View attachment 897909 View attachment 897911

This is the early style. These were replaced by one that the spline section was much shorter like the one in the first picture. The down side of that long spline is the spline section can rust to the shaft and is much harder to break free then the shorter one, The spline section on the longer one is in the middle of the boxed section of the of the front section on the frame making it hard to apply heat. The pillow block bearing just behind it is no longer available. One of my winches a PO destroyed the bearing removing the shaft because of the rust. I have another one and maybe two early PTO with rusted splines I need removed. If you do find a long spline one I would be sure to grease the splines and rotate the shaft on a regular bases.
 
The picture you posted of the pillow block bearing the is goes to the bracket that is mounts to the frame on the side and not to the radiator bracket is something we did not get in the US. By the mid seventies a PTO winch was rare. Mainly had Warn electric winches installed at the dealer. The FJ55 had a similar setup as the late 4X series but not sure it would be the same length as the 4X series.

The part number for pillow block bearing is that for a complete housing or just the bearing? It's the housing being destroyed that has been my problem
 
That PN is onley for the bearing. I can see how the long spline could size up and cause a major hedake in trying to replace a broken shearpin.


It's not just replacing the shear pin it's removing the shaft that is the issue. The U-joint that goes on the spline will not fit thru the opening in the frame. The short shaft with the spline has a flange on the other end. To remove the shaft the spline end has to go thru the bearing. With a rust spline the short shaft will not go either way thru the frame. Like a mentioned a PO destroyed the aluminum pillow block housing to remove the shaft. I was doing some trading for his PTO winch. The cruiser was non running so he removed it at his home. I still have the rusted pieces in my PTO pile.
 
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