Proactive repair (1 Viewer)

[Godfr33]

The fact being--->anything I buy will be used--->and used means crapshoot!

1. Even if service records look great, in sequential order what would you repair regardless if the parts seem ok?

2. What items could wait until they worsened and still allow you to take a 2 week trip without breaking down? e.g cam tower leakage develops and keeping a qt of oil in the back is the quasi fix until full repair.

Vehicle would be 2011 up and less than 100k. Rust free.

A list of offensive attacks against time/wear!

 

[Mogwai]

There's a radiator fail post, avg reported time was 7 to 9 years IIRC, not necessarily mileage dependent. If you're in there at the same time water pump?

Other than that, the cam tower leak is the only issue I recall being systemic. I'm curious what the first indications of this issue are, other than "visual" but will refer back to the other cam tower thread.

 

[steenh]

1. Water Pump
2. Radiator
3. Starter

Others can weigh in, but I'm not sure the Cam Tower leak is super common. Couple we've heard of but not what I'd call a "worry zone" item. Painful to the pocket if you have that issue though! The other three also aren't going to go without some warning so they wouldn't leave you stranded.

 

[jblatl]

I agree 1&2 but does #3 give some warning?

The cam towers are something you can plan for over 10 k miles or so.

They will not leave you in a bad place, the oil burning smell will get annoying.

 

[Godfr33]

I agree 1&2 but does #3 give some warning?

The cam towers are something you can plan for over 10 k miles or so.

They will not leave you in a bad place, the oil burning smell will get annoying.

What about the Nav/temp/command center all In one?

If the nav head went is there zero control of temp settings? I ask this because it looks ripe for replacement with a iPad mini and bypass the whole unit. Saw something like $2800 + labor.

In my spare time I program arduino and particle projects ( smart devices) I have temperature/humidity readings, servo driven shades and more. I could tech up the LC for next to $200! For $2800 I could probably set up a remote system and drive it with an oculus rift.

As much as I enjoy tech, going 3 menus deep just to change the temp is ridiculous and dangerous!

Thx

 

[TonyP]

You don't use the menus to change the temp, just the hard button arrows on the dual zone temp next to the wheel.

 

[Markuson]

What about the Nav/temp/command center all In one?

If the nav head went is there zero control of temp settings? I ask this because it looks ripe for replacement with a iPad mini and bypass the whole unit. Saw something like $2800 + labor.

In my spare time I program arduino and particle projects ( smart devices) I have temperature/humidity readings, servo driven shades and more. I could tech up the LC for next to $200! For $2800 I could probably set up a remote system and drive it with an oculus rift.

As much as I enjoy tech, going 3 menus deep just to change the temp is ridiculous and dangerous!

Thx

Hit the up/down temp buttons to control temp on each side. You can also control recirculation/outside air, interior filter use, rear on/off. So no...you won't be left hanging just due to screen death. You would not be able to manually control fan speed...or turn off 4/zone though.

 

[Godfr33]

You don't use the menus to change the temp, just the hard button arrows on the dual zone temp next to the wheel.

Then what does the head unit control. Please tell me only nav and radio?

That would make me so happy!!!

 

[TonyP]

Fan speed and zone/vent control. The only time I use the MFD for climate is to raise or lower the fan speed which isn't common.

 

[Godfr33]

Fan speed and zone/vent control. The only time I use the MFD for climate is to raise or lower the fan speed which isn't common.

Well that sucks Ill still tied into the system and dependent on it for functions related to temp.

 

[Markuson]

I believe the windshield wiper heater is also activated via the screen.

 

[steenh]

I agree 1&2 but does #3 give some warning?

The cam towers are something you can plan for over 10 k miles or so.

They will not leave you in a bad place, the oil burning smell will get annoying.

I've never had the starter in the 200 go out, but did on my 100 and a few other cars over the years, and yes, there is always telltale signs it's on the brink. Might not turn once, and then will second try. Then that starts happening more and more often. Wait too long and you are toast, but I've never experienced complete failure right off the bat.

 

[TexAZ]

when mine went it was fine one day and nothing the next.

There is a way to "jump" it if you are out in the boonies and need to get back to a civilized place for repairs.
It takes some time to get the foil heat shields off and two people to execute the maneuver, but if you're stuck, it will get you home.
here's a link to the starter thread:
Real time STARTER help

and if you want to skip to the Tundra site for the how to on jumpering (yeah, made that word up)...

DIY starter saver. 5.7 - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum

 

[Malleus]

when mine went it was fine one day and nothing the next.

There is a way to "jump" it if you are out in the boonies and need to get back to a civilized place for repairs.
It takes some time to get the foil heat shields off and two people to execute the maneuver, but if you're stuck, it will get you home.
here's a link to the starter thread:
Real time STARTER help

and if you want to skip to the Tundra site for the how to on jumpering (yeah, made that word up)...

DIY starter saver. 5.7 - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum

x2. And the location is a true PITA.

When mine died, I spent exactly 5 minutes weighing the 8 hours it would have taken me to replace it, including retrieving a new one ('cause I can't walk to the parts counter from my driveway) and the cost of leaving it at the dealership for a day (taking my loaner home, thank you Lexus), and drove to the dealership.

Other than that, knock on wood, I've had no problems and I'm at 105k.