Press for lug bolts

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tucson_sailors

tucson_sailors

Joined
Oct 11, 2008
Threads
71
Messages
865
Location
Tucson, AZ
In another ironic twist, I have had lugs shear on the *FRONT* of my rig, approximately 1 month after I finally got the rear fixed.

Looking for practical experience on what size press I should invest in that should be able to press out and in the lugs. HF has a 6 ton desktop style press for about $70 - would fit in my wallet and shop area, and I figure I can always replace the bottle jack with a larger capacity and increase the available pressure.

Since most folks are recommending a 3lb BFG and brass drifts, should 6 tons be enough for a starting point?

Oh - I will be replacing *all* of the lugs on both front rotors, as well as having the remaining rear axle ones replaced. Not sure if its the 200k miles and the lugs are just tired, or if the rim spacers are doing it....so going to change lugs, and go back to my original 15 OEM rims and remove the 1.5" spacers, and just get some AAL for the rear spring packs to adjust the "saggy 60" syndrome, that was the original reason to go to 16" 31 x 10.50's. Will get proper backspaced plain steel rims and new spring packs when my wallet stops bleeding. :)

Anyone interested in a set of 80 series 16" AL rims? I'll have 5 here in the near future that will be available. :)

Glenn in Tucson
 
Can you post some pictures of the rims so as to show the condition of them?
 
Rims

Rudster said:
Can you post some pictures of the rims so as to show the condition of them?
Click to expand...

Figure it'll be a couple of weekends before ready, but I'll get some snaps. Not sure if I can post, but will email snaps directly if I can't.

Glenn
 
I have 6 OE 60 wheels if you would want to trade.
 
Are your 80 series wheels for use with acorn or shank lug nuts?
 
Bolt type

MoGas said:
Are your 80 series wheels for use with acorn or shank lug nuts?
Click to expand...

Acorn. Fair warning that on my 60, the TRE rubbed the rims, so I was using 1.5" spacers. I will no longer be doing that, so if you have a stock 60/62 I wouldn't recommend the 80 rims since the backspacing isn't the same. I'll just have to find some FJ55 or 40 plain steel rims at some point to get the look I want, with the strength I'm now going to insist on. :)

Will post pics of the rims after this weekend - gotta tear apart the driver side rotor so I can press out the broken lugs.

Glenn
 
tucson_sailors said:
Acorn. Fair warning that on my 60, the TRE rubbed the rims, so I was using 1.5" spacers. I will no longer be doing that, so if you have a stock 60/62 I wouldn't recommend the 80 rims since the backspacing isn't the same. I'll just have to find some FJ55 or 40 plain steel rims at some point to get the look I want, with the strength I'm now going to insist on. :)

Will post pics of the rims after this weekend - gotta tear apart the driver side rotor so I can press out the broken lugs.

Glenn
Click to expand...


Even better. I could just use them on my 93 and not have to buy shank style lug nuts.


If the other guy passes, I have cash or trades ready.

Dave
 
tucson_sailors said:
...
Looking for practical experience on what size press I should invest in that should be able to press out and in the lugs. HF has a 6 ton desktop style press for about $70 - would fit in my wallet and shop area, and I figure I can always replace the bottle jack with a larger capacity and increase the available pressure.
Click to expand...

It probably would be enough to push studs, but I wouldn't recommend a 6 ton. There are a lot of jobs where a press is handy, but most require more pressure and/or size. For a bunch of years I had a 14 ton, worked well for most stuff, but was on the edge in both power and size, the smallest I would recommend.

The press frame is built to the strength needed for the jack, so going to a stronger jack just bends the frame. I bent the 14 ton with the stock jack.

tucson_sailors said:
Since most folks are recommending a 3lb BFG and brass drifts ...
Click to expand...

I have installed studs using about all of the methods and if the equipment/time is available prefer pressing them. It does the jobs as well as possible with little/no trauma to the fastener.

The majority of stud failures are from over torquing (plastic deformation), it only takes once to permanently ruin the fastener. When doing the "pull it in with the nut" method, care needs to be taken to avoid fastener over torque. I use a torque wrench, torque to max fastener rating, tap the stud to settle, repeat until the stud is solid.
 
I have always just driven them in and out with a hammer.Never had a failure.Trucks,trailers,and farm equipment. Maybe this comes from being in a rural environment but its worked for me. mike
 
I got to agree with the last two posts - put an old lug nut on the stud 97% and then get a 8lb hammer and smack it. Back off the threads a bit and repeat untill it comes out. Putting them back in is just as easy - set the stud square, and get an impact gun and torque wrench and slowly seat them all in (square). It takes baout 45 minute to replace a complete set - no sweat.
 
Using a lug nut

Agree that works if you have any stud left - ie stripped threads, my issue has been the bolts shearing off at the disk/hub. I will however, probably use the slowly setting it back in place with a lug and spacer when I'm putting it back together.

On the rear axle, I was unable to pound out 4 of the broken lugs, and found it easier to just go get an axle 1/2 shaft that was intact. I still have the original in my spare parts pile, guess I can test some of the recommendations on that, since I don't really need to have that one working and can mung one up and not be upset about it.

Glenn
 
Found pics for those interested

Knew I had posted pics at some point in the past. Here is what the rims looked like when put on my 60. Look at posts 12 and 13 for the photos. Going down to Discount this morning to have the tires unmounted and put on a different set of 16's. I believe these came off of a 91 - 92 FZJ80, but can't be positive. I picked them up of off CL in Tucson from a dude that was rebuilding his 80 after buying it back from a insurance rollover payout, and he wanted to run 33's.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...nning-these-wheels-their-60s.html#post4909027

I will end up with 5 rims in all, one most likely have a tire still mounted, unless CJ's or some other local place can find me a matching rim for the 4 that I'm swapping out to. Will post more details after all the back and forth.

These do mount to the original lug bolts on my 60 with the acorns, not the later shank style, just to confirm from earlier thread discussion.

Glenn in Tucson
 
tucson_sailors said:
Knew I had posted pics at some point in the past. Here is what the rims looked like when put on my 60. Look at posts 12 and 13 for the photos. Going down to Discount this morning to have the tires unmounted and put on a different set of 16's. I believe these came off of a 91 - 92 FZJ80, but can't be positive. I picked them up of off CL in Tucson from a dude that was rebuilding his 80 after buying it back from a insurance rollover payout, and he wanted to run 33's.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...nning-these-wheels-their-60s.html#post4909027

I will end up with 5 rims in all, one most likely have a tire still mounted, unless CJ's or some other local place can find me a matching rim for the 4 that I'm swapping out to. Will post more details after all the back and forth.

These do mount to the original lug bolts on my 60 with the acorns, not the later shank style, just to confirm from earlier thread discussion.

Glenn in Tucson
Click to expand...

Oh, those are FJ80 wheels not FZJ80. I thought you had the 16 inch 5 spokes like these:
80pics051.jpg


Those that you have are 15s and I already have a set of those that I don't need.


Dave
 
Update - I have a 3WD FJ60 in my driveway

Ok - found a 12 ton press on CL, and it worked just dandy for pressing out the broken studs. Makes one LOUD noise when they pop.

However......NAPA had spec'd out what looks like rear bolts for the FJ60 for front and rear. Nowhere near long enough for the front rotor and the splines were in the wrong spot, and wrong pitch. Ran by Merles at Dodge and Ajo this morning on the way into work, and they found there are 2 different bolts specified, and they gave me the longer set. I will be pressing those in, and possibly replacing the inner seal (gotta see what condition it is in) since I've got it yanked and then putting my front hub back together.

NASTY mess for those doing it for the first time. Brass drift can be gotten at HF so you don't munch the threads when loosening the cone washers. Process is widely explained on the 60 board, but be prepared to have several hours to do it in, and LOADS AND LOADS of shop rags/shop towels.

Had another look at the rims, as per earlier comments, and be dammed they are 15" rims - had thought they were 16"'s. All 5 are off at this point, and since the tires are old per the DOT date code, not going to bother saving them, so they'll stay on as a spare set for whomever ends up with them. Got the OEM steel 15's on there for now, will swap once I do the AAL upgrade to my rear spring packs sometime soonish - have them on order courtesy of Tim in Marana.

Otherwise this has been yet another learning experience for me, but at the minimum cost of $250.00 labor for someone to pull and press lugs I supply, well worth the time, since I can also check condition of bearings/races, seals, etc.

Glenn in Tucson
 
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