Power Steering Fluid Exchange Trick

[NMuzj100]

I recently started a drain/fill exchange of the power steering fluid. I am using the turkey baster method of basically "sucking" as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir, filling with new and letting that dilute the old fluid during normal driving. I plan to do this on a regular basis to keep the fluid relatively fresh.

When I tried to use my turkey baster (bought a new one to put in the kitchen and took the old one out to the garage.) I found that it was too big to fit in the tight opening of the reservoir. So I took a flexible staw (Solo brand 100 for $1) and placed it in the tip of the turkey baster flexible end down. It was a friction fit and with fluid in it there is was no suction loss. That allowed me to get all the way to the bottom of the reservoir very easily. I pulled out about 8oz of nasty dark black fluid and replaced it with synthetic Amsoil ATF.

I bled the system using the FSM procedure (SR-4) but I don't think it was necessary and I probably won't do it next time.

 

[Garry]

The only time you need to bleed the system is after the lines have been disconnected or the fluid has been run too low.

 

[Jim_Chow]

I did this, drove around on errands, repeated about 5x using Redline dextron II ATF. When I got my rig at 50K mi, the factory PS fluid was dark, thick, and burnt smelling. It even left a permanent stain on the side of the plastic resevoir, so you can get duped into thinking it's full. I tried the turkey baster (too big, will work on half of it), then a long piece of pvc tubing and sucked it out repeatedly like a straw, spitting it into a bottle. I find that the capacity is around 10-12 oz.

I started by using a Valvoline ATF for older trannies (helps cleans out the residue). That seemed to help. Then I replaced that w/ Redline ATF w/ dextron II (yes, they still make/sell this). Even after driving around town, the redline, although still red, has a residual burned smell, which I suspect is from the stain on the resevoir. No other issues. PS still works fine (worked fine w/ the original thick burned fluid). One day when I'm more ambitious, I'll replace the resevoir.

And no, I didn't bleed the system.

 

[marsva]

The way I was taught to change the power streering fluid is a whole lot easier and completely replaces old with new. Take a large bottle of fluid w/ the proper adapter tube, place upside down over and into the reservoir, disconect the return and place the hose into a separate, large container (gallon plastic jug) and have a second helper turn the engine on. The fluid will run clean in about a minute or less...shut off motor and disconnect system and reconnect hoses.
Take some time being careful not to spill fluid as most will trash paint. Easy job.

 

[1loudLX]

that process sounds like its pretty easy. Maybe ill do that some day next week.

 

[Jim_Chow]

The key is you need the proper adapters. There is the potential for a large ATF spill/disaster.

 

[NMuzj100]

The way I was taught to change the power streering fluid is a whole lot easier and completely replaces old with new. Take a large bottle of fluid w/ the proper adapter tube, place upside down over and into the reservoir, disconect the return and place the hose into a separate, large container (gallon plastic jug) and have a second helper turn the engine on. The fluid will run clean in about a minute or less...shut off motor and disconnect system and reconnect hoses.
Take some time being careful not to spill fluid as most will trash paint. Easy job.

This is a good method too but disconnecting hoses on a working unit adds the potential to cause a problem where none existed.

 

[1loudLX]

forget the idea then....i dont have any adapters of any sort. I do need to change my motor oil tho.

 

[100 TD]

I did my Ford by lifting off the serpentine belt and removing the return hose and directing it into a bucket then turned the pump by hand and as the fluid got down low I would just pour some more fluid in, I did this until I got clean fluid coming out the return hose then put the hose, cap and belt back on. Then I did the same a week later after the new fluid in the pump and hoses had mixed with the other bits in the the rack. It was not messy, but I did have to have my air compressor handy to spin the pump pulley for a start to get the vanes to fly out and seal, once that happened, turning by hand was easy. (You may not have to do this with a good pump)

 

[NMuzj100]

The key is you need the proper adapters. There is the potential for a large ATF spill/disaster.

How about a two man job with one starting the car and the other filling the reservior as it gets low and never letting it drop below the low mark. If the "pour" man gets behind then shut down the truck.

 

[Jim_Chow]

The other method described was also a two man job (you need someone watching to see when the fluid runs clear). So it seems as NMuzj100 suggests, it would be easier to just stick a small funnel in the resevoir and pour while the second person waits for the signal to cut the engine. Now if you want to change the resevoir, I guess one will have to put a cup underneath the two hoses as they are removed, attach the new resevoir, then pour some fluid in the new resevoir and tilt it sideways so the hoses are pointing more up to prevent air from entering the system.

 

[donco]

I'm not sure how well it would work with a rack & pinion system, but I have had good luck in the past purging worm & roller steering boxes by putting the front end on jack stands, disconnecting one of the hoses, and turning the steering wheel repeatedly from lock to lock with the engine off -- gets most of the old fluid out of the system with minimum mess.

 

[Garry]

I'm not sure how well it would work with a rack & pinion system, but I have had good luck in the past purging worm & roller steering boxes by putting the front end on jack stands, disconnecting one of the hoses, and turning the steering wheel repeatedly from lock to lock with the engine off -- gets most of the old fluid out of the system with minimum mess.

This method has worked for me also, and once you have filled the tank, you can bleed the system while still on the stands.

 

[mercara]

How often does the Power Steering Fluid have to be replaced?

 

[NMuzj100]

Hard to tell as it is not even a recommended service by Toyota. The powersteering system can be exposed to high temps that break down fluid and the 8 year old fluid I removed from my powersteering system was no longer pretty. However I am sure that in the grand scheme of things it was still quite servicable (no steering issues ever). Perhaps the same interval as the transmission ? Same fluid and similar stresses.

It is a small amount of fluid, the fluid is cheap and the job is quick and easy.

 

[Garry]

Hard to tell as it is not even a recommended service by Toyota. The powersteering system can be exposed to high temps that break down fluid and the 8 year old fluid I removed from my powersteering system was no longer pretty. However I am sure that in the grand scheme of things it was still quite servicable (no steering issues ever). Perhaps the same interval as the transmission ? Same fluid and similar stresses.

It is a small amount of fluid, the fluid is cheap and the job is quick and easy.

Yeah, what he said!

 

[Jim_Chow]

My PS fluid was shot by 50K mi, but those are high temp, So. AZ miles. It was thick, dark, and smelled burnt. There's even a permanent stain on the side of the plastic resevoir that leaches odor into any new fluid you replace it with. I've thought about replacing the resevoir, but it's like $130 for the part alone. So far, I've put about 3-4 qts of ATF through there. Fluid is still red, but has taken on that same burnt smell from residue.