Post Birf Job Wobble (1 Viewer)

[Beast II]

was there any play in the wheel bearings before you tore it down? Did you check the lower control arm studs?

also, did you replace the kingpin bearings and, if so, did you take the races out of those?

I jacked it up and tried moving the tires - bearings seemed tight. When I took the nuts off, they were tight too. During the install, I didn't retorque the bolt to 43 lbs after spinning it, so maybe the bearing loosened ?

I did replace the kingpin bearings, but just like the wheel bearings, I thought the races were fancy protective packaging and threw them away.

 

[Beast II]

And you did set the preload with a gauge and not "feel"?

Preload was done with a guage from marlincrawler - torqued to spec. I like your digital guage alot better though.

 

[semlin]

ok well hopefully with new kingpin and wheel bearings with matched races your problems will go away.

just to be clear on the wheel bearing preload, the inner nut should be seated to 43 ft/lbs but ends up being barely hand tight when preload is set and is not tightened after that. You then put in the tabbed washer and the lock nut and only the lock nut gets torqued to 48 ft lbs. some people get confused by the FSM instructions.

 

[elmariachi]

I did replace the kingpin bearings, but just like the wheel bearings, I thought the races were fancy protective packaging and threw them away.

The race is essentially the other half of the roller bearing. The whole premise behind a two piece bearing is so that you can beat the race into its seat without beating up and distorting the roller cage.

 

[Docmallory]

Is there any way to check for looseness in the knuckle/trunion/kingpin bearings after things are all assembled?

Another quick and related question - let's say this gentleman were to know for sure that the knuckle bearings were the culprit, and otherwise the birf job had gone well - when he goes back in there to replace the knuckle bearings, what else should be replaced at that time?

(I find myself in a somewhat similar situation, having a birf job less than a year ago and current suspicions of a bad knuckle bearing)

 

[Beast II]

The race is essentially the other half of the roller bearing. The whole premise behind a two piece bearing is so that you can beat the race into its seat without beating up and distorting the roller cage.

I know this now. I was stunned and felt like a complete moron after I saw your installing the races. Believe me - it won't happen again and I am paying the price by having to buy the parts again and spend another day putting it all back together.

I guess I should read the directions a bit better next time.

 

[semlin]

Is there any way to check for looseness in the knuckle/trunion/kingpin bearings after things are all assembled?

Another quick and related question - let's say this gentleman were to know for sure that the knuckle bearings were the culprit, and otherwise the birf job had gone well - when he goes back in there to replace the knuckle bearings, what else should be replaced at that time?

(I find myself in a somewhat similar situation, having a birf job less than a year ago and current suspicions of a bad knuckle bearing)

Doc you could disconnect the tie rod for the ds or the tie rod and relay rod for the ps and pivot the knuckle on the knuckle bearings without any restraints and see if you can feel any play or anything binding (and also check the knuckle bearing preload). With the right tool it will only take you an hour or so to get the ends off but be aware you still might not be able to tell. The right tool is about $40 for an OTC brand tie rod puller. You would need that and 3 new cotter pins.

 

[IdahoDoug]

What Semlin was trying to say is to pay attention to the FSM directions on torque. There are times on the wheel bearing (and other aspects of this job, too!) where the manual calls for X FOOT lbs, and shortly thereafter for X INCH pounds. For instance, many a knuckle housing stud has been broken off by tightening the drive plate on with FOOT lbs, and many a wheel bearing has been tightened on for its final time with FOOT lbs as well. Pay attention.

DougM

 

[semlin]

doug, i didn't mention inch pound on purpose b/c i don't know what year he has and didn't want to get even more confused. in the 93/94 fsm they don't mention the inch pounds when setting the preload. they just say seat the hub at 43 foot lbs, turn it back and forth, retorque at 43 foot lbs then loosen it off and tighten by hand to set the preload and then lock not is set at 47 foot lbs (i was off by a pound). the inch pound settings for the inner nut in the later year manuals don't work to get the right preload anyway based on my truck and riley's so I would ignore them. The important thing to grasp is that the inner nut should be basically hand tight or a slight turn if you do this right.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Cool

DougM

 

[Beast II]

It was the races

Changed out the bearings and RACES this time and the Cruiser handles like a very large sportscar ! Thank you for all of the help. Only took me 9 hours this time.

 

[semlin]

good to hear.