Possible fuse block location

[greynolds]

What do you guys think about attaching a small fuse block in this location, which is between the glove box and passenger side of the center stack:

My thought is to have the fuse block rest on the metal piece at the bottom and be held in place with Scotch Double Lock velcro to whatever the black component is just above the wires that show in the photo, something like how it is shown just placed loosely in this second photo (so it would be up a bit higher. My only real concern is if I would be adding stress to that black component that it can't handle, but the bulk of any stress should be on the metal panel below - the velcro would just be preventing it from moving side to side. It looks like there is plenty of room to route the wires that would be connected.

Access to the fuse block for changing fuses, in the event of a blown fuse, would be relatively painless and just require a Philips screwdriver for removing the panel to get access. The block would feed a few USB power ports on Gamivitti's replacement speaker panel on the top of the dash, pass along power to some USB power ports I have installed on the rear of the center console, and feed a switched circuit to the rear compartment for power to my mobile router that provides Internet service to my Tesla style head unit. Each circuit on this block can have constant power or switched power. The switched power would be triggered by the cigarette lighter circuit without having to cut or splice any wires thanks to a plug in tap I found on Amazon (I'll be cutting the USB ports off and just using the red wire to provide an accessory trigger to the fuse block):
Amazon product ASIN B07TM4DPQS
Here's the fuse block I'll be using:

Fuzeblocks.com| Compact Switchable Power Distribution with Onboard Relay

The FZ-1 is a uniquely designed compact fuse block. With its onboard relay, you have the choice for each accessory to have constant power or turn on or off automatically with your vehicle. Its 6 individually fused circuits that can be easily configured simply by moving the fuse to a different...

www.fuzeblocks.com

 

[sdnative]

I tucked a fuse block up under the glovebox next to the factory fuse block. I used zip ties temporarily but I am sure a more permanent bracket can be fabricated.

 

[greynolds]

I tucked a fuse block up under the glovebox next to the factory fuse block. I used zip ties temporarily but I am sure a more permanent bracket can be fabricated.

That’s a good location and accessible without any tools, but I’ve already got some USB items in that general area for the Tesla head unit (USB hub, 2TB portable drive, etc.), so space is a bit tight there at this point and I want those items to be more accessible. There’s a ton of space behind the Tesla head unit that used to be used up by the factory head unit, but getting at it to change fuses or swap out USB devices means taking most of the center stack apart and pulling the head unit out. I’ll take another look to see if I have enough room to stash the fuse block in that space below the glovebox without moving the other items, but I think it may be too tight.

 

[CharlieS]

What do you guys think about attaching a small fuse block in this location, which is between the glove box and passenger side of the center stack:
View attachment 3104978

My thought is to have the fuse block rest on the metal piece at the bottom and be held in place with Scotch Double Lock velcro to whatever the black component is just above the wires that show in the photo, something like how it is shown just placed loosely in this second photo (so it would be up a bit higher. My only real concern is if I would be adding stress to that black component that it can't handle, but the bulk of any stress should be on the metal panel below - the velcro would just be preventing it from moving side to side. It looks like there is plenty of room to route the wires that would be connected.
View attachment 3104977

Access to the fuse block for changing fuses, in the event of a blown fuse, would be relatively painless and just require a Philips screwdriver for removing the panel to get access. The block would feed a few USB power ports on Gamivitti's replacement speaker panel on the top of the dash, pass along power to some USB power ports I have installed on the rear of the center console, and feed a switched circuit to the rear compartment for power to my mobile router that provides Internet service to my Tesla style head unit. Each circuit on this block can have constant power or switched power. The switched power would be triggered by the cigarette lighter circuit without having to cut or splice any wires thanks to a plug in tap I found on Amazon (I'll be cutting the USB ports off and just using the red wire to provide an accessory trigger to the fuse block):
Amazon product ASIN B07TM4DPQS
Here's the fuse block I'll be using:

Fuzeblocks.com| Compact Switchable Power Distribution with Onboard Relay

The FZ-1 is a uniquely designed compact fuse block. With its onboard relay, you have the choice for each accessory to have constant power or turn on or off automatically with your vehicle. Its 6 individually fused circuits that can be easily configured simply by moving the fuse to a different...

www.fuzeblocks.com

I've used that same product on motorcycles, installed under the seat, and never had any issues or concerns with it. Your idea seems great. If it was me, I'd consider using 3m VHB double sided tape to attach it.

 

[greynolds]

I've used that same product on motorcycles, installed under the seat, and never had any issues or concerns with it. Your idea seems great. If it was me, I'd consider using 3m VHB double sided tape to attach it.

Thanks for the feedback on the fuse block. The only real negative I see with it is that the 12V and Ground inputs can't accept anything larger than 12 gauge wire. That's not an issue for this application, but it would be for hooking up accessories in the cargo area where I ran 8 gauge power wires. I also have an Eastern Beaver PC-8, which has more traditional terminal studs for the input power and ground connections, that I'm thinking about installing in the cargo area to clean up the wiring I did back there for the cargo area power ports. I just need to come up with a mounting location I'm happy with for it (the jack / first aid kit area is where my mobile router is installed, but there may be enough room to make it work in there. Here's a link to that product:

PC-8 - Eastern Beaver Inc

The PC-8 fuse box manufactured to the highest standards. 6 switched and 2 un-switched outputs. Compact size and high power capacity.

www.easternbeaver.com

The negative point of the PC-8 is that it doesn't have a relay on the circuit board for the switched circuits, so an external relay needs to be installed somewhere along the way if there's a desire for any switched circuits.

It looks like the 3M VHB tape is more of a permanent method of attachment. I want to go with something I can detach in case I need to add, remove, or fix any of the connections as they'll be pretty hard to get to once the fuse block is mounted. That's why I was thinking the Dual Lock would be a good solution; I also happen to have a roll of it that I bought for attaching Fast Lane / E-Z Pass transponders on the windshield, so I won't need to go get anything .

 

[Julian73]

Thanks for the feedback on the fuse block. The only real negative I see with it is that the 12V and Ground inputs can't accept anything larger than 12 gauge wire. That's not an issue for this application, but it would be for hooking up accessories in the cargo area where I ran 8 gauge power wires. I also have an Eastern Beaver PC-8, which has more traditional terminal bolts for the input power and ground connections, that I'm thinking about installing in the cargo area to clean up the wiring I did back there for the cargo area power ports. I just need to come up with a mounting location I'm happy with for it (the jack / first aid kit area is where my mobile router is installed, but there may be enough room to make it work in there. Here's a link to that product:

PC-8 - Eastern Beaver Inc

The PC-8 fuse box manufactured to the highest standards. 6 switched and 2 un-switched outputs. Compact size and high power capacity.

www.easternbeaver.com

The negative point of the PC-8 is that it doesn't have a relay on the circuit board for the switched circuits, so an external relay needs to be installed somewhere along the way if there's a desire for any switched circuits.

It looks like the 3M VHB tape is more of a permanent method of attachment. I want to go with something I can detach in case I need to add, remove, or fix any of the connections as they'll be pretty hard to get to once the fuse block is mounted. That's why I was thinking the Dual Lock would be a good solution; I also happen to have a roll of it that I bought for attaching Fast Lane / E-Z Pass transponders on the windshield, so I won't need to go get anything .

For accessories in the cargo area I installed a fuse block in the wheel jack storage cubby. This allowed for smaller distribution cables as the runs were short.

 

[greynolds]

For accessories in the cargo area I installed a fuse block in the wheel jack storage cubby. This allowed for smaller distribution cables as the runs were short.

View attachment 3105068

Yeah, I just checked and even with the items I already have installed in that area, the PC-8 will fit at the bottom of the cubby where you have your fuse block installed. But it looks like the one you're using would be a better fit. Looks like this is the fuse block you used:

Amazon product ASIN B01BV1MTF0
What ground bus is that on the right side?

 

[CharlieS]

I've still got one from my last adventure bike. I have consodered installing it to run my Weboost and any other items I want switched, but haven't gotten around to it. That and I don't run anything else in the cargo area that I want switched, so it feels like overkill.

The nice thing about it, if I recall correct, is that depending on how you place each fuse, it allows some accessories to be always powered and others to be switched.

 

[greynolds]

I've still got one from my last adventure bike. I have consodered installing it to run my Weboost and any other items I want switched, but haven't gotten around to it. That and I don't run anything else in the cargo area that I want switched, so it feels like overkill.

The nice thing about it, if I recall correct, is that depending on how you place each fuse, it allows some accessories to be always powered and others to be switched.

Correct, each fuse can be installed to make each circuit switched or always on.

 

[Julian73]

Yeah, I just checked and even with the items I already have installed in that area, the PC-8 will fit at the bottom of the cubby where you have your fuse block installed. But it looks like the one you're using would be a better fit. Looks like this is the fuse block you used:

Amazon product ASIN B01BV1MTF0
What ground bus is that on the right side?

That ground buss is Blue Sea 2306 .. seems a bit small but is rated as 100 amp 6 terminals.

Yes that looks like the fuse block I used BS #5046 100 amp 8 terminals. The way I used it is to supply power to power outlets & USB ports on center console back face, left and right sides of cargo area and a roof outlet. These are single switched through an SP-9100. I did run separate tail and roof mounted lighting wires switched directly off the SP-9100


I find PKYS a good source for electrical hardware, they are a legitimate marine supplier and cheaper than amazon.

 

[greynolds]

I connected some dummy wires to the fuse block I pictured above to better test the fit in my intended location this morning. It looks like it will fit just fine, so I'll probably run with this tomorrow since I have the day off.

I ordered the Blue Sea systems fuse block that @Julian73 is using in the jack storage area as it appears to be a really nice fit there. I'm still curious what product he's using for the ground bus (Edit: I see he responded as I was typing...) as it also looks like it fits nicely where he mounted it. I previously mounted a mix of USB and 12V lighter power ports in the removable panels that are normally used by the 3rd row seat release levers (my HE didn't come with 3rd row seats). I was never happy with the quick wiring job I did for that where I used inline fuses for each power port, so this will give me a nice way to clean that up when I get another block of time free.

 

[greynolds]

That ground buss is Blue Sea 2306 .. seems a bit small but is rated as 100 amp 6 terminals.

Yes that looks like the fuse block I used BS #5046 100 amp 8 terminals. The way I used it is to supply power to power outlets & USB ports on center console back face, left and right sides of cargo area and a roof outlet. These are single switched through an SP-9100. I did run separate tail and roof mounted lighting wires switched directly off the SP-9100


I find PKYS a good source for electrical hardware, they are a legitimate marine supplier and cheaper than amazon.

That sounds similar to my application. Thanks for the info.

 

[Julian73]

I connected some dummy wires to the fuse block I pictured above to better test the fit in my intended location this morning. It looks like it will fit just fine, so I'll probably run with this tomorrow since I have the day off.

I ordered the Blue Sea systems fuse block that @Julian73 is using in the jack storage area as it appears to be a really nice fit there. I'm still curious what product he's using for the ground bus (Edit: I see he responded as I was typing...) as it also looks like it fits nicely where he mounted it. I previously mounted a mix of USB and 12V lighter power ports in the removable panels that are normally used by the 3rd row seat release levers (my HE didn't come with 3rd row seats). I was never happy with the quick wiring job I did for that where I used inline fuses for each power port, so this will give me a nice way to clean that up when I get another block of time free.

I probably went overboard on outlets; USB and old style (cig lighter port), but between charging phones, powering other items, including frig (dedicated line from battery) and astro telescope tracker etc. I figured why not.

 

[greynolds]

I probably went overboard on outlets; USB and old style (cig lighter port), but between charging phones, powering other items, including frig (dedicated line from battery) and astro telescope tracker etc. I figured why not.

Yeah, I also probably went overboard on outlets, with the same mix on both sides. I didn't go with the SwitchPro though, so I just mounted a kill switch (on each side) so I can ensure nothing is draining the battery unless I actually have something that needs power from the ports. The first photo below shows the driver's side. It looks like you may have done the same trick I did with the old workbox ears, which can be seen in the 2nd photo below, to keep the panels from popping out.