Not sure if there is interest in this modification or not? Its quite popular on other model Toyotas.
Sorry this is so long, just wanted to be thorough since I decided after getting all the way into to not perform it for now, I didn't have the correct wire size in the length needed and ran out of day light.
Did a little research in TIS and digging around the electronics and found the following on the fog lights.
***Disclaimer I have not performed this on my LC250, but it should work to allow the fog lights to be turned on via stalk in any light stalk switch position other than OFF or DRL OFF (I.E. Parking lights, Headlights Hi or Low beam) Auto should continue to function as normal as should the fog light switches on the stalk and the color change switch if equip'd. I say should work because nowhere I could find it TIS does it show or talk about how power gets to the fog light switch on the stalk, it looks like it gets power and ground via the steering angle sensor but it doesn't show it directly going to the fog switch. There is also a change in OFF or DRL OFF the fog lights would also function but if so they will shut off when turning the vehicle off as normal.***
First connector is Z17 Pin 8 gray wire (8 over from the right hand side on the bottom row, last pin in that row is 18). Photo f this below.
This wire would need to be removed from the connector (this is the fog light input to the steering angle sensor and gets sent over the CAN BUS to the body ECU from there and on to the Semi Conductor Power Integration ECU which is inside the engine bay right side fuze box). No longer is Toyota using a fog light relay, at least on the LC250.
The Second connector is A86 Pin 6 pink wire going to the Semi Conductor Power Integration ECU, this is the connector next to the 2 pin connector on the ECU. The ECU is held into the fuze box with two tabs on either side to remove it from the fuze box and gain access to the four connectors on the bottom.
When you pull out the ECU the two pin connector will be on your right and A86 is next too it on the left, pin 6 pink wire is three over from the right in the top row, the only pink wire in this connector. This could probably be left installed but I'd recommend removing it as well as the CAN bus is no longer sending power activation via the Body ECU any longer and its safer if its removed. (Sorry didn't get a picture of this).
To remove the pin you need to lift the white locking bar and use a fine tip jewelers screw driver to release the pin, screw driver gets inserted below the pin in the small slot you'll see (ECU side of connector plug) and the screw driver will have to be inserted beyond the locking bar to release the pin, I had to modify mine to fit. If reinstalling the pin you just need to ensure the pin wasn't bent during removal (locking tab, if so you need to straighten it) push it back in and lock the white locking bar, wire should now be secure.
For the two previously removed wires you'll need to route and run a wire between them to gain anytime fog control. Unknown if the color switching will work if you have that option but it should. The color switching gets its power via the pink wire that gets removed so according to TIS it will still function as we are now directly powering from the fog light switch.
Steering wheel shaft cover is removed via two screws at the top under the steering wheel (rotate wheel a little to both sides to gain access and there is another screw on the bottom in the middle.
Remove the trim flex piece at the top by gently pulling at both corners to release the clips on the corners and then work towards the center.
There are two clips up top that hold the two halves of the steering shaft cover together and once those are disengaged you can gently separate the two halves by pulling by the stalks and the bottom cover can be removed to gain access to Z17 connector, its the big white one on the bottom center of the steering column (40 pin connector, see picture).
I'd recommend testing voltage at the steering angle sensor pin 11 gray wire with wire installed and turning on the fogs with headlights on and with wire removed and turning on the fogs with headlights on before proceeding into the whole modification to verify the voltage is still coming from the switch. Specified voltage should be between 11-14VDC. I'd also check for ground or lack there of if no voltage is seen as it could be ground activated, although I doubt it is.
If anyone gives this a shot please update on results. I'd be interested to know for sure if this works.
***I don't foresee any danger to trying this as the ECUs are no longer in the loop with the wires removed, there should also be no DTCs set because of this modification***.
***Also please disconnect the Negative lead on the start battery before doing this for safety as when you disconnect the steering ECU Z17 connector it turns the headlights on until you reconnect it.***
I may dive back into this pending interest, obtaining wire and the time to do it??
Sorry this is so long, just wanted to be thorough since I decided after getting all the way into to not perform it for now, I didn't have the correct wire size in the length needed and ran out of day light.
Did a little research in TIS and digging around the electronics and found the following on the fog lights.
***Disclaimer I have not performed this on my LC250, but it should work to allow the fog lights to be turned on via stalk in any light stalk switch position other than OFF or DRL OFF (I.E. Parking lights, Headlights Hi or Low beam) Auto should continue to function as normal as should the fog light switches on the stalk and the color change switch if equip'd. I say should work because nowhere I could find it TIS does it show or talk about how power gets to the fog light switch on the stalk, it looks like it gets power and ground via the steering angle sensor but it doesn't show it directly going to the fog switch. There is also a change in OFF or DRL OFF the fog lights would also function but if so they will shut off when turning the vehicle off as normal.***
First connector is Z17 Pin 8 gray wire (8 over from the right hand side on the bottom row, last pin in that row is 18). Photo f this below.
This wire would need to be removed from the connector (this is the fog light input to the steering angle sensor and gets sent over the CAN BUS to the body ECU from there and on to the Semi Conductor Power Integration ECU which is inside the engine bay right side fuze box). No longer is Toyota using a fog light relay, at least on the LC250.
The Second connector is A86 Pin 6 pink wire going to the Semi Conductor Power Integration ECU, this is the connector next to the 2 pin connector on the ECU. The ECU is held into the fuze box with two tabs on either side to remove it from the fuze box and gain access to the four connectors on the bottom.
When you pull out the ECU the two pin connector will be on your right and A86 is next too it on the left, pin 6 pink wire is three over from the right in the top row, the only pink wire in this connector. This could probably be left installed but I'd recommend removing it as well as the CAN bus is no longer sending power activation via the Body ECU any longer and its safer if its removed. (Sorry didn't get a picture of this).
To remove the pin you need to lift the white locking bar and use a fine tip jewelers screw driver to release the pin, screw driver gets inserted below the pin in the small slot you'll see (ECU side of connector plug) and the screw driver will have to be inserted beyond the locking bar to release the pin, I had to modify mine to fit. If reinstalling the pin you just need to ensure the pin wasn't bent during removal (locking tab, if so you need to straighten it) push it back in and lock the white locking bar, wire should now be secure.
For the two previously removed wires you'll need to route and run a wire between them to gain anytime fog control. Unknown if the color switching will work if you have that option but it should. The color switching gets its power via the pink wire that gets removed so according to TIS it will still function as we are now directly powering from the fog light switch.
Steering wheel shaft cover is removed via two screws at the top under the steering wheel (rotate wheel a little to both sides to gain access and there is another screw on the bottom in the middle.
Remove the trim flex piece at the top by gently pulling at both corners to release the clips on the corners and then work towards the center.
There are two clips up top that hold the two halves of the steering shaft cover together and once those are disengaged you can gently separate the two halves by pulling by the stalks and the bottom cover can be removed to gain access to Z17 connector, its the big white one on the bottom center of the steering column (40 pin connector, see picture).
I'd recommend testing voltage at the steering angle sensor pin 11 gray wire with wire installed and turning on the fogs with headlights on and with wire removed and turning on the fogs with headlights on before proceeding into the whole modification to verify the voltage is still coming from the switch. Specified voltage should be between 11-14VDC. I'd also check for ground or lack there of if no voltage is seen as it could be ground activated, although I doubt it is.
If anyone gives this a shot please update on results. I'd be interested to know for sure if this works.
***I don't foresee any danger to trying this as the ECUs are no longer in the loop with the wires removed, there should also be no DTCs set because of this modification***.
***Also please disconnect the Negative lead on the start battery before doing this for safety as when you disconnect the steering ECU Z17 connector it turns the headlights on until you reconnect it.***
I may dive back into this pending interest, obtaining wire and the time to do it??
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