POR-15 Opinions

[Bighorn]

Hi All,
I justed wanted to get some feedback from anybody who has used POR-15 and had it on a rusty surface for a decent amount of time. I've heard a couple of second hand horror stories, but don't know if it was applied correctly etc.
Has anyone had it on their frames/undercarriage for a significant amount of time and how does it perform?
Thanks,
Mike

 

[KLF]

Here's my opinion:

I used it a bunch on my old '84 pickup back in '99-'01. There's a paint shop in Nashua that keeps all their products on the shelf, so I bought the whole system, MarineClean. MetalReady, etc. I applied it exactly as the directions said. I went thru a lot of that stuff on that truck, when I first started using it I thought it was the best stuff on the planet. I usually used Rustoleum for a top coat.

Then a year or so later it started peeling off. Some of it I was able to just peel right off with my fingers. In other places, rust was bubbling up underneath, like blisters. So much for that. I've never used it since, and I never will.

Besides the poor longevity, I thought it was overpriced. And, I hated that it basically has no shelf life once the can is opened. I threw a lot of it away, as it just got hard in the can within weeks. I tried all the tricks: storing it upside down, putting a plastic bag on the rim before putting the lid back on, it really didn't help significantly. It seems to react with moisture in the air, so I got the best shelf life if I opened the can, quickly poured out what I wanted into a different disposable container (bottom half of a plastic soda bottle), then put the lid right back on the can, after totally cleaning the lip of the can. If there is any paint in the lip of the can when you put the lid back on, you will never get that lid back off, it is now epoxyied shut. And, like the ads and warning labels say, if you get the stuff on you, there is no way to get it off. Forget cleaning the brushes, just get disposables. I never tried spraying it.

Honestly, I get better results with good 'ol Rustoleum. I get rid of as much rust as possible (flap wheel in a grinder works great), then a good coat of red "Rusty Metal" primer, let it dry for about an hour, then a couple coats of satin black. This is the treatment I did on my frame when I did all the welding and stuff for the SAS back in '04, and it still looks great today. Plus, the stuff is cheap, available all over the place (K-Mart, WalMart, Homey Depot, Lowes, etc), lots of colors, spray cans, several finishes, etc. Touchup with the spray cans is really easy, like I need to do on my sliders now. The only down side with Rustoleum is that it takes a loooonng time to really dry solid, like several days.

There ya go...

 

[Bighorn]

KLF,
That exactly the kind of feedback I was looking for (it's also holds weight coming from a salty road yankee like me.). I have a friend who's a show winning restoration guy and autobody teacher who said POR was a waste of money and would peal off, he never uses it and told me about friend of his who had the paint fall of off the frame of his 67 chevelle. Rustoleom it is!!!!
Cheers,
Mike

 

[40Flipper]

It's all in the prep. I prepped my old 40 half assed and the stuff came right offf a few months later. My own fault though. Prep, prep, prep......

 

[JJS]

Honestly, I get better results with good 'ol Rustoleum. I get rid of as much rust as possible (flap wheel in a grinder works great), then a good coat of red "Rusty Metal" primer, let it dry for about an hour, then a couple coats of satin black. This is the treatment I did on my frame when I did all the welding and stuff for the SAS back in '04, and it still looks great today. Plus, the stuff is cheap, available all over the place (K-Mart, WalMart, Homey Depot, Lowes, etc), lots of colors, spray cans, several finishes, etc. Touchup with the spray cans is really easy, like I need to do on my sliders now. The only down side with Rustoleum is that it takes a loooonng time to really dry solid, like several days.

There ya go...

x2. Rustoleum works as well as the other stuff. Fluid Film over it in the winter, and you're golden.

 

[KLF]

It's all in the prep. I prepped my old 40 half assed and the stuff came right offf a few months later. My own fault though. Prep, prep, prep......

I prepped, prepped, prepped, followed all the steps on the can to theletter, said the magic words, paid homage to the POR Gods... and the crap still peeled off.

 

[KLF]

x2. Rustoleum works as well as the other stuff. Fluid Film over it in the winter, and you're golden.

Yup, although for me it's 90W gear oil, and liberal useage of Amsoil Metal Protector (the chain lube stuff).

 

[peepers]

hey bighorn, if klf says he followed the instructions, trust me, he followed them to a T. very thorough guy.

have you taken a look at any of the eastwood rust prevention products?

 

[crusier72]

I had mixed results with the POR-15 on my 4runner back in 99 I sand blasted the rear gate and used the metal ready and then por I never top coated and the finish turned chalky it held up great. However I used it a couple of other places that I didn't sand blast and it all pealed off. I wont use it again. I have been using krylon instead because it dries in 15 min.

 

[Bighorn]

hey bighorn, if klf says he followed the instructions, trust me, he followed them to a T. very thorough guy.

have you taken a look at any of the eastwood rust prevention products?

FTR - That wasn't me questioning his prep. If he says he did, then he did.

 

[peepers]

FTR - That wasn't me questioning his prep. If he says he did, then he did.

not that you were questioning it... no no no... i am just saying to trust the opinion... not that you weren't... you get me point

 

[Bighorn]

No problem, I just didn't want to be seen as causing offense when none was intended.
I really appreciate all the input. The only opinions I had seen on POR was from folks who just recently used it, so hearing what happens with time is a more important. If you read the POR marketing cliams, this stuff is the most amazing thing ever devised (cures all ailments, raises the users IQ, increases fertility in women, increases your net worth and futre earning potential, etc etc) Nice to hear some feedback from the field.
Cheers,
Mike

 

[natickdave]

Mike,

First of all, trust KLF on this, no questions asked.

Second, my experience is a little better, though different. I did the system on an axle tube, which then got put into my garage loft for about 4 years. It came down this winter for Randall's diskbrake axle build, and it looked fantastic. No evidence of any peeling or bubbling. But, then again, it has not been exposed to anything but dust and big temperature swings in that time.

That said, there are many rust converters out there that are easier to use and way cheaper...and the rustoleum primer and satin black system is very tried and true and oh-so-simple.

Dave

 

[KLF]

I think if you can sandblast, then the stuff will probably stick pretty well and not peel off. But, so will Rustoleum.

I remember having the trailer hitch on my 4Runner sandblasted, the giving it the Rustoleum primer and 2-coats treatment. That was in 1996 or 97 I think, and it still looks fine today. I wish I could say the same for the trailer hitch on the back of my Highlander, it's gonna need the same treatment soon.

 

[Q-BALL]

i'm all about rustoleum ...love that stuff

 

[HeavyMetalViking]

I'm glad I read this too, I need to coat my frame, as well as take care of some bumpers I picked up. I was gonna use POR but I guess rustoleum is the better way to go!

 

[Spud]

I used the spray can of permatex stuff from NAPA, then primer and topcoat. I'll let you know how it worked out...in a year or two.

 

[Sporin]

I've been using that thick brownish-red Rustoleum covered by Black Rustoleum, then again, my project has barely left the driveway.

 

[Q-BALL]

and rustoleum is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay cheaper !!

 

[nat88toy]

when i did my sas i used it on the front axle, frame and bumper so far it seems to be holding up fine except where the metal was very smooth it has started to peal like on the nukle balls