PO401 Defeated!!
- Thread starter Bear80
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
The edit in the first thread says 1K Ω (one thousand ohms)
This is not my creation, I have not preformed this procedure nor do i intend to but assuming the resistor was the only load in a 14v circuit
watts = amps x volts
amps = volts / ohms
volts = amps x ohms
ohms= volts / amps
14v / 1,000 Ω = 0.014 A
0.014 A x 14 = 0.196 watts
10 watts is quite overkill for a 1,000 Ω resistor, a standard 1/4 or half watt would be fine,
now the one ohm load works much differently,
14v / 1Ω = 14 A
14A x 14V = 196W
10 watt is not enough hopefully you did not burn up your ECU with the 1 Ω resistor
watts = amps x volts
amps = volts / ohms
volts = amps x ohms
ohms= volts / amps
14v / 1,000 Ω = 0.014 A
0.014 A x 14 = 0.196 watts
10 watts is quite overkill for a 1,000 Ω resistor, a standard 1/4 or half watt would be fine,
now the one ohm load works much differently,
14v / 1Ω = 14 A
14A x 14V = 196W
10 watt is not enough hopefully you did not burn up your ECU with the 1 Ω resistor
Mine is still working fine with the original 1 ohm unit at almost 4yrs. We are currently looking for a 03-04 lx-470 so I will probably not know how long it goes.
There are some further "components", in addition to the three mentioned by Beowulf. The port from the EGR valve running into the top of the intake mani is notorious for getting plugged. That was the problem with mine. My current indy worked at the Lexus dealership and says the LX450s had that problem very frequently. That was one of the first things they tried when a truck came in with the dreaded code.
I proactively replaced the VSV, all the vacuum lines, the EGR valve, and the vacuum modulator and cleaned all the plumbing out. The only thing I didn't replace was the temp sensor. All this was done at about 150k mi. No CEL for 65k mi. In my opinion, the EGR components have a useful life, and lots of these trucks have exceeded said life of above mentioned parts. Rebuild the system as designed and it works great. Bootstrap youself along and that CEL light just comes back.
But, you gotta do what helps you sleep well at night. I personally sleep better knowing I don't have to worry about EGR systems anymore, because mine is new.
Keep the Cruiser Faith,
R.
I proactively replaced the VSV, all the vacuum lines, the EGR valve, and the vacuum modulator and cleaned all the plumbing out. The only thing I didn't replace was the temp sensor. All this was done at about 150k mi. No CEL for 65k mi. In my opinion, the EGR components have a useful life, and lots of these trucks have exceeded said life of above mentioned parts. Rebuild the system as designed and it works great. Bootstrap youself along and that CEL light just comes back.
But, you gotta do what helps you sleep well at night. I personally sleep better knowing I don't have to worry about EGR systems anymore, because mine is new.
Keep the Cruiser Faith,
R.
Zipastro,
There are 3 other components in the EGR system in addition to the temp sensor which appears from your post to be the only one you have tested.
There is the EGR modulator which can be replaced with no tools if it tests bad. Testing is easy; see your FSM.
There is the EGR valve which can be tested easily; replacing is a bit harder but still only a 1job.
There is the VSV for EGR which is more difficult to test because you have to remove it to test it. Removal is a 1
You also have some hoses connecting this stuff together which should be tested first (as suggested by Rick a LONG time ago.) Checking and/or cleaning the hoses is another 1
Hope this helps.
-B-
I would agree with Super90 - on the underside of my intake plenum I had a bunch of dried and some cracked hoses that led to the VSV. I think that is likely to be overlooked for those of you who try the replace the VSV without splitting the intake plenum method.
When ever to reset codes the computer has a period of time until you can have emmissions done. Normally on a cruiser it is after you drive around 25 miles. It prevents you from resetting the codes and pulling in to a testing facility before it kicks it again. I have driven about 1000 miles and it still reads not ready on the scanner.
...and yet I did that for 3 years or so. The inspectors usually will allow for a certain number of not ready test conditions. At least they did in New York and Massachusetts.
Then I spent an afternoon with the FSM and diagnosed it followed by a day with a VSV and several lengths of hose and it seems to be fixed.
I guess that is what I will have to do...Thanks,
The "readiness" flag on the FZJ80 is a two drive cycle logic. The specific requirements have been posted by me many times. Do an advanced search with my ID as author, 80-Section, and key words=drive, cycle
Let me know if you have trouble finding it.
-B-
Ok a 1k ohm, 5 watt resistor. But what kind of resistor--there seem to be so many of them. Am I looking for a "current sensing", "fusing", "jumper", "power" etc.
Here is the link for the list--
http://mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?N=254363&Keyword=1k+ohm+resistor&FS=True
Which one have other's used?
Thanks.
-onur
Any of these: 1k ohm resistor
I went a slightly different route with mine, I chose a ceramic style 3.7K ohm 1/2 watt resistor as the 3.7K seems to me to be more in the range for the ECM to recognize a 'hot' temp sensor.
According to the FSM the ranges are:
122 (F) - 64K -97K Ohms
212 (F) - 11K - 16K Ohms
302 (F) - 2K - 4K Ohms
as for the wattage, 1/2 watt should be plenty for the ECM as it deals in very limited wattages.
I used heat shrink terminal connectors which I found at a marine store and just crimped these directly onto the resistor.
.
According to the FSM the ranges are:
122 (F) - 64K -97K Ohms
212 (F) - 11K - 16K Ohms
302 (F) - 2K - 4K Ohms
as for the wattage, 1/2 watt should be plenty for the ECM as it deals in very limited wattages.
I used heat shrink terminal connectors which I found at a marine store and just crimped these directly onto the resistor.
.
