Plumbing rough-in questions

[haystax]

What size ABS pipe do I need to catch kitchen sink, dishwasher, washing machine, utility sink, and boot/dog wash on one run? There will be a 90* turn that will be difficult to turn into 45* turns but we might be able to accomplish that with a smaller pipe - say 2" rather than 3"

I came up with 10 or 11 DFUs from several charts and have a good idea of the iso for the kitchen sink and dishwasher + AAV from an article in Fine Homebuilding magazine.

What I really need to know is what to do for the cleanest install of the clothes washer/utility sink and AAV at that location - any ideas?

Will 2" pipe handle these DFUs? 3"?

Thanks!

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

main line is 4" all around to street including toilet. toilet vents are 2". everyother vents are 1.5". Your auto dishwasher should dispense into your sink... 1.5" everywhere else.... 1.5" sink tees in with 1.5" vent to 2" branch laterolette into your 4" line...


2" should be fine... as long as you keep 4" toilette...

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

oh and keep your turns as high up as possible to free up storage space under the sink.... so you could install those rolling out shelves..

 

[haystax]

Thanks for your advice - I guess the newer code in some areas is that clothes washers must be 3". I don't have any code or inspection to worry about, just need to know if 2" will handle the flow because I will be the person who has to unclog the drain if it isn't right.

Kitchen sink is in corner cab so tons of space for drain and supply lines in the back corner Also found some really good install stuff and AAV on another site so looks like we're in good shape. Bath and toilet are not going to 'T' into this line either and I have 4" already stubbed into basement from septic tank.

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

You will not have any issues at all with the clothes washer.... I checked my plumbing (3 years new with city inspection)... and talked to my Friend (General Contractor for over 10 years... Built New homes Grass Roots with inspection).... And Ive designed as well but I rarely did pluming Isometrics.... In any case If you can fit 3" in the wall.... great! If possible run it through a 2x6 framed wall.... those are used where plumbing is involved. But if your just replacing/upgrading in an existing wall.... go with what fits.... 3" is more than enough... Again... this is here in LA.... So that Is what I'm basing my suggestions on....

 

[haystax]

New construction - post and beam w/exposed beams in basement ceiling means no bearing walls to hid plumbing. There will be a plumbing chase along one wall of the basement that will be hidden by clothes closets in the bedrooms if I use 3". If I use 2" then I can rip out the styrofoam and steel web of the ICF basement wall and recess the pipe into the void and then just drywall like normal.

Thanks for your help!

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

box them in.... run them all in one area where you can drywall around it.. about 5" deep by say.... 12" wide... we do it for AC ducting so it doesnot show.... now Copper plumbing is a whole other story.... run it parallel with the beams.... make sure your welds are clean.... polish them with "brasso" and presto chango... your copper plumbing becomes BLING! It will be real nice and shinny... Did that at a restaurant that I used to run.... polished all of the copper plumbing along with the sinks (stainless steel) and started to get better treatment by health dept. and company inspector.... they always would comment on how the clean and neat everything was after the bling upgrade....

Again... just a little of What I have done... your deal might be different...

 

[RHINO]

when i first read this i thought you were asking about a dirty arm for all of it,, thats not gonna fly, but you arent,, are you?

2" is gonna be fine for all of it assuming your doing it under floor with proper vents for all? also on the 90* your gonna want a drain(sweep90) rather than a vent(close90).


the right way as follows, i'll try the layout, picture in your head.
coming of your trunk line with 2", combo to catch sink/dishwasher and vent,,, continue to another combo to catch clotheswasher and vent,, continue to sweep90 to catch basin/boot wash and vent. or vise versa however you have it in line. vents can all be 1.5 though i like 2" on clothewasher. clotheswasher gets p trap in wall, is the boot wash like a shower base? it gets a p trap under slab, basically a dirty arm off the 2" that will also catch the basin. you can use a santee here instead of another combo because its vertical, then continue the 2" up to the santee for the basin and vent out 1.5". you can also tie in all the vents and run just one out.


no inspection? well,,, 2" will handle it on a dirty arm style but you'll have slow drains especially if more than one is running. you may also get water pushing up in other drains once in a while especially when the clotheswasher gets it.

 

[haystax]

Dirty arm I think that is what I am ultimately afraid of getting and trying to avoid at all costs really. Your advice about the combos and such is exactly what I plan on using for fittings, the clotheswasher and utility sink will vent with AAV plumbed into the washer box in the wall and the sink will have AAV undercounter. Boot wash will tie into utility AAV so no vents through roof.

I would have put this whole line on a greywater system but my driveway and main landscaping and access is on this side of the house.

 

[RHINO]

cool the AAV venting should work good, not much exp with them but i have done a few. they fix some hard to do plumbing apps but i still prefer a vent, maybe i'm just old school.

a dirty arm is aptly named, example, ummm ok your toilet, the part from the toilet to the stack is considered a dirty arm, most typical use of dirty arms is kitchen sink under a window, the dirty arm would be the part that comes off the stack in the wall and over to sink. they are limited in size and length,,,,, hope that makes sense.

i only brought it up cause it almost sounded like you wanted to hook all this up on a dirty arm, which would be a big no-no. you prolly wouldnt be surprised how many bad plumbing jobs i have fixed.

 

[haystax]

box them in.... run them all in one area where you can drywall around it.. about 5" deep by say.... 12" wide... we do it for AC ducting so it doesnot show.... now Copper plumbing is a whole other story.... run it parallel with the beams.... make sure your welds are clean.... polish them with "brasso" and presto chango... your copper plumbing becomes BLING! It will be real nice and shinny... Did that at a restaurant that I used to run.... polished all of the copper plumbing along with the sinks (stainless steel) and started to get better treatment by health dept. and company inspector.... they always would comment on how the clean and neat everything was after the bling upgrade....

Again... just a little of What I have done... your deal might be different...

Going to use Viega pex for supply lines - but I like that idea of the bling copper - I'll have to remember that. I'll decide today what the route will be - most likely a chase after all this because I have a radiant zone manifold to supply in the utility room plus wiring for kitchen/utility sub panel as well.

Open floor plans with cathedral ceilings are nice until you have to run mechanicals

Thanks for the advice - keep it comin' cause I've got a ways to go on this project.