The pads are here and ready along with abit of that disc quiet goop. Anything special I need to watch out for, or can I just pop them out pry it open and pop in the new ones? Please advise. Not sure if I need a caliber reset tool??
Planning on replacing rear pads on 98 cruiser-anyone do this yet?
- Thread starter COLandCrusher
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
If you're just replacing the pads, it's the same as any regular disc brake job. Just pull out the old ones, and pop in the new ones. There a lots of little shims, etc that hold them in place. Make sure they are in good condition and if they come off with the old pads, make sure they go back on the correct way.
Always pull the pins that hold the caliper, clean, and re-lube with new caliper grease. I use antiseeze on all other bolts when I put everything back together.
It might be a good idea to adjust the hand brake, if necessary, while you have the wheel off (there is an access hole in the rotor to get to the adjuster for the hand brake shoes).
Caliper reset tool- I use one of the old pads between a C-clamp and the piston to compress the caliper pistons back in.
what kind of caliper grease do you use?
BamaHeel said:
I currently have Permatex "ultra disc brake caliper lube"
Sent from my Thunderbonner using IH8MUD
thanks good to know. one of those things that needs to be used but is not generally discussed.
I did the rears 2 weeks ago. Pads from Slee, Syl-Glyde (sp??) from NAPA...all good stuff.
Slee's anti-squeel shims were a little different than oem, but after proper bedding and 2 weeks no noises.
It helps to remove the sheet metal caliper cover with a 7mm wrench or socket. Caliper pin boots were dirty but otherwise perfect. Hit 'em with silicone spray and they go back on the pins first, the bolts screw into the pins and the outside boot end locks onto the bolt.
Less than a 1-banana job
Steve