Pitting on top of block (1 Viewer)

[Radd Cruisers]

Has anyone come across this, the head was removed due to overheating and coolant entering exhaust.

When they pulled the head there was severe pitting on top of the block were coolant had seeped through??

They are talking about pulling the engine out and milling the top of the block to eliminate the pitting.

 

[Rich]

That will happen if the the engine is run long time with leaking gasket. Deck needs to be smooth to enable new gasket to seal.

 

[sixsracing]

Sorry for the ignorance here but I've only owned one of these for 2 weeks now. Is the block aluminum or steel? If it's aluminum the pits can be filled in with aluminum epoxy and shaved down to original level. If it's steel I'm sure there is a similar solution. I know that Rolls Royce had a special silicone (Hylomar?) that they used for just this problem. I know this sounds hokey, but I have been working on Vanagons with porous heads for many years and I have used the aluminum epoxy with absolute 100% success.

 

[robbie]

I have run into this for the heads, but only slight pitting on the block that was not engouh to worry about. As for Hylomar, that stuff is wonderfull as long as you do not have cuts around the sealing ring (of the Head gasket's) of the cylinder that leads to the coolant system. It has good sealing properties with high temp resistance, but I have found it will not hold compression pressures under ingnition(tried it once on a 22r my own). So my question is If you pull it to mill it, is it better to have it rebuilt and build more power or leave it stock? Other stop gap measures is to use 24 hour JB weld to flaten the surface and then sand it flat,This could last till the next rebuild if done well and allowed to cure for 24 with a light on it to heat it. There again it does depend on how much the pitting is. I would almost never do this for a customer, but it would also depend on the conversation you have.
This is a prime example of waitng until it finally goes before getting the Head gasket done. The longer you wait, the chance of a more severe problem that can develop. I have seen on older 2 f's where the heat and compression cut a line so bad the block was trash. any how good luck. later robbie

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Other stop gap measures is to use 24 hour JB weld to flaten the surface and then sand it flat,This could last till the next rebuild if done well and allowed to cure for 24 with a light on it to heat it.
This is a prime example of waitng until it finally goes before getting the Head gasket done. The longer you wait, the chance of a more severe problem that can develop. I have seen on older 2 f's where the heat and compression cut a line so bad the block was trash. any how good luck. later robbie[/QUOTE]

Thanks Robbie, just the information I was looking for.

The milage is very high 250K, prolly need a rebuild soon.

Rob

 

[Radd Cruisers]

I went to toyota and viewed the pitting for myself, not in any critical compression area that I could see and more visible than deep. Barely could feel it with your finger nail.

The ridge on the edge of the cylinder was almost nill and I could still faintly see cross hatching on the cylinder walls.

I have very little expierence with these engines, guess this is normal wear for these engines.