Pintle hook/bumper

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jwest said:
He'd like to do away with the hitch.

Class III receivers for the 60 are rated at 3500 lbs. gross, and that's pulling directly back. Other class III's max out at 5K lbs. They may be able to do better, but that's the rating.

Tow hooks, on the other hand, are rated at 10,000 max.

It's always a potentially lethal situation to yank a vehicle out of trouble. An upturned hook may, in some cases, be more of a liability if the vehicle pulling you out is in a higher elevation than you. This might place more pressure on the upturned weaker portion of the hook itself, whereas a downturned hook in a similar situation will keep the pressure on the strongest, thickest portion of the hook.

OEM hooks are upturned on the front and downturned on the back on the 60's.

That said, it's always a good idea to parachute the cable or strap with a thick blanket, as well as covering both vehicles, whenever possible. But who always does this?



.
You misunderstood.

With my luck I would catch the downturned hooks on a branch and get fully stuck..
 
Mace said:
You misunderstood.

With my luck I would catch the downturned hooks on a branch and get fully stuck..

LOL, a branch :flipoff2:


Actually after reading all this over I thought... hmmm, now I will be dragging hooks crossing arroyos. Is that better? Worse? Same?
 
Whoops! Sorry, I don't know what happened, I could have sworn I'd included the pictures. Here's another attempt:
rearshot (small).webp
 
I might consider mounting something like this and see about reinforcing the crossmember. Then keep a D shackle in the rig.

DSC05441.jpg


Though I think you'd still have to cut through the bumper. The vertical face of the oem bumper is on a bias isn't it? ...preventing you from drilling and mounting through it.

But IMO, except for towing, the crossmember alone (without reinforcement) doesn't look reliably strong to me, especially in the sense that it doglegs to the frame rails, plus the 4 rivets on each side. I feel a lot more comfortable with the frame rails as a mounting point.

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Drill through the bumper and bolt a intle hook on... It'll press it fliush against the crossmember, no problem.

The problem with using a frame rail mounted hook for a snatch is that it yanks the rig crokked when you hit the end. It's not a reason to not use this location at all, but a center anchor point is much better for strap use.

The key to using the rear cross member is reinforcing it.

The swivel mount shackle... It looks plenty strong. The crossmember would be weaker than the shackle mount. But a single point mounting like that would not be as strong as the pintle (which spreads the load out more).


Mark...
 
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