Builds HDJ80 LHD #snlcbuilt Ute (pickup)

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A few more pics.

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Cheers
 
Just going to run it as is for now, I have heard I can get 30psi out of this turbo, we will see. It is a modified CT26 so I am not really expecting to be blown away by it, especially compared to the setups we normally run.

Intake plumbing will go through here more or less.

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I am going to just run the Winks out of the gates like I say. If it at all disappoints me I am sure I will upgrade turbos in the future.

Cheers

If you don't mind, why not the turbo upgrade from the start?
 
Picked up a nice hard shell RTT today for this build. Traded some work for a customer for it. It’s part of my bed plan, going to be awhile before I ever use it but I saved thousands on it.

Just got a free bay today in the shop for at least the next few weeks. Going to see if I can get the inner structure done on the cab and work on the body filler after.

Cheers
 
In the shop! Probably won’t do much this weekend though as I kind of have plans.

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Grabbed a set of four of these today! Not my first pick but they are the only ones that match the specs I want from KMC.

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Cheers
 
The injection pump rebuilder didn’t want to put the Torfab aneroid pin in, no worries I am doing it.

Here is the old pin, pretty hard to see the old groove in it.

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Playing with the star wheel.

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My way of testing the pin profile with boost.

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I don’t know what psi the Winks turbo will do but I am doing my initial setup at 25psi. If it fails to do that I am sure I will be changing it out after break in.

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Cheers
 
Looking at Ford 9” rear axle housings and hi9 3rd members lately. Also 4-link kits. Staring at the rear chassis as well thinking about what and how I want to do it.

It doesn’t make a lot of sense to me to throw much $$$ at a rear Toyota axle. I have stock rear housings, hubs/brakes and some 3rds I could build but at the minimum I would go with say a Ruff Stuff housing and then it’s like why wouldn’t I just 4-link it too!? And there is rear shock, at $1000 each I don’t really want to be buying 12” for stockish rear axle/suspension and then need/want 14” later. I want to move the shocks behind the axle as well and run a torsion bar sway bar.

Cheapest to start with a Ford 9” housing and 4-link kit. Full built axles have come down a lot in price though from what I recall years ago. Seems like well under $10k gets you a Currie. I would say $5k into a 9.5” is likely being that I would need a housing, RCV shafts, build a 3rd member with locker, brakes and so forth. I am really leaning towards starting with a Ford 9” housing and a link kit. 😋🤌

Cheers
 
Bit crusty on the welding but it won’t come apart and is getting buried. So I am ok with it, it’s not rotting anymore.

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Some of the cab supports we are making.

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On the cab supports/ inner structure we are building. I didn’t want it to be to bulky. A lot of these UTE chops I have seen the box or rectangular tube is fairly big. This is 1x 1/8” wall. It’s also not just to tie everything together and give the sheet metal some strength. We are making it with attaching interior panels to it being 50% of the goal.

Cheers
 
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My list before I can start doing body work.

-build/fab a rear most cab mount. Already started this.

-finish cab back support structure, more than 50% done with that now.

Hmmmnnnn, I think that may be about it. Need to rework/fix the trans shifter hump area but that will have to be after the power train is in it.

Cheers
 
Alrighty, here is the back cab mount we made, this is body mount #4.

This was before taking the frame side mount inboard a bit to clear the washer on the top body mount.

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Here are the body side mounts. Certainly no claim to fame here for fab or welding. It always sucks for me welding on old sheet metal. We built the body side mounts out of 14g and welded a 3/16’s plate on the inside for reinforcement.

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Frame side mounts. This is a stock body mount I cut off an 80 frame. I would rather it hadn’t landed on the crossmember we made/installed but that’s alright, it is very strong.

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I probably could have skipped this rear most cab mount since there is only 14” or so from #3 to the back of the cab. I wanted to add it though for extra strength and piece of mind.

Cheers
 

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