pics of lighting
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kling-on
Kool Arrow
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you really need to know what you want lighting for before you put them up, because there are so many different places to put lights and so many different types and some combinations just plain dont work for certain situations.
atm i have the 2 ashdown where they are, and the 2 cibies on top of the bullbar. But I generally only require lights for highway and dirt road driving. Lights on the roof positioned near the windscreen are good for slow offroad work, but almost useless for high speed highway because of the light reflecting off the bonnet. Just having lights on the bullbar doesn't give enough spread for slow speed offroad. you choose
sam
atm i have the 2 ashdown where they are, and the 2 cibies on top of the bullbar. But I generally only require lights for highway and dirt road driving. Lights on the roof positioned near the windscreen are good for slow offroad work, but almost useless for high speed highway because of the light reflecting off the bonnet. Just having lights on the bullbar doesn't give enough spread for slow speed offroad. you choose
sam
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- Dec 8, 2002
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Besides the front lights, under my windscreen you will see 2 smaller lights facing outwards & down. These light up to the side. Makes a big difference to be able to see next to the Cruiser an nite. I also have 2 rear 55w backup lights.
Not bad ass but its my way
2 x Narva 100w driving lights
2 x Hella 100w spot lights
2 x 100w std light inserts
2 x Narva 100w driving lights
2 x Hella 100w spot lights
2 x 100w std light inserts
Got the idea for the brush guard a long time ago (early 90's) from a magazine. I made it with the intentions of using a set of Bosch Rally lamps (at $20 each, they are a great upgrade).
Headlamps - HID light source placed in a replaceable lamp housing (with a custom bulb shiled as to not shine oncoming traffic when on public roads).
Off Road Lamps - Bosch Rally 180mm lamps (the only place I could find these were from MOFOCO). They use a H1 light source, I replaced mine with a 130W version. Lamp is designed produce a pencil beam (a well designed reflector for when it was engineered). Soon to be HID when I can figure out the mounting.
Fog Lamps - HID light sources fit into Ford production fog lamps. Gives a very defined thin wide spread. Great for on or off road use.
(... Yes, I am a fan of HID (gas discharge) technology because I am a geek...)
Rear Lamps - Another set of Bosch Rally lamps (since they were cheap), with 55W H1 light sources. I used a 3 position switch and a few relays to have them come on automatically when I had my headlamps on (when it's dark) and in reverse. The other 2 positions were "off" and "on with ignition".
Wiring Notes-
Each pair of lamps required a separate relay and fuse. Switches mounted on the dash panel were wired with the IGNITION circuit. The switches fed relays, which took fused power from the battery. This allowed me to avoid taking high current through the switches (and let me select any type of switch I wanted, instead of the limited selection of high current switches).
Headlamps - HID light source placed in a replaceable lamp housing (with a custom bulb shiled as to not shine oncoming traffic when on public roads).
Off Road Lamps - Bosch Rally 180mm lamps (the only place I could find these were from MOFOCO). They use a H1 light source, I replaced mine with a 130W version. Lamp is designed produce a pencil beam (a well designed reflector for when it was engineered). Soon to be HID when I can figure out the mounting.
Fog Lamps - HID light sources fit into Ford production fog lamps. Gives a very defined thin wide spread. Great for on or off road use.
(... Yes, I am a fan of HID (gas discharge) technology because I am a geek...)
Rear Lamps - Another set of Bosch Rally lamps (since they were cheap), with 55W H1 light sources. I used a 3 position switch and a few relays to have them come on automatically when I had my headlamps on (when it's dark) and in reverse. The other 2 positions were "off" and "on with ignition".
Wiring Notes-
Each pair of lamps required a separate relay and fuse. Switches mounted on the dash panel were wired with the IGNITION circuit. The switches fed relays, which took fused power from the battery. This allowed me to avoid taking high current through the switches (and let me select any type of switch I wanted, instead of the limited selection of high current switches).
Don't know what happened to the pic...
Here it is.
Here it is.
- Thread starter
- #8
this is great... more to come!
HID??? i had an HID kit on my subaru WRX and i put the stockers back in. i am replacing my fj62 lights today with DOT approved sealed beam sylvanias. no biggie there. but, i want to go bull bar and high power, pencil beam driving lights for back roads and anytime when other cars are not around.
lets see more.....!!!!!!
HID??? i had an HID kit on my subaru WRX and i put the stockers back in. i am replacing my fj62 lights today with DOT approved sealed beam sylvanias. no biggie there. but, i want to go bull bar and high power, pencil beam driving lights for back roads and anytime when other cars are not around.
lets see more.....!!!!!!
Peepers,
A shame that you were unsatisfied with your HID setup (especially since they are very expensive at sevaral hundred dollars a kit). I have yet to see an aftermarket supplier come out with a good system. It's easy to design a bracket to mount the light source to the lamp housing, but impossible to make them work photometrically with EVERY lamp housing. I spent a lot of time in design of my mounting bracket and bulb shield to get it right into one specific housing. I have a big problem with the current suppliers of these systems because of this, they give HID a bad name (oncoming drivers hate to be shined). Performing this kind of upgrade is not an easy task, it takes a lot of research to do it right (and a very strong understanding of electricity). Where did you get your kit?
A shame that you were unsatisfied with your HID setup (especially since they are very expensive at sevaral hundred dollars a kit). I have yet to see an aftermarket supplier come out with a good system. It's easy to design a bracket to mount the light source to the lamp housing, but impossible to make them work photometrically with EVERY lamp housing. I spent a lot of time in design of my mounting bracket and bulb shield to get it right into one specific housing. I have a big problem with the current suppliers of these systems because of this, they give HID a bad name (oncoming drivers hate to be shined). Performing this kind of upgrade is not an easy task, it takes a lot of research to do it right (and a very strong understanding of electricity). Where did you get your kit?
- Thread starter
- #10
Mark...
I think that retrofitting HID is a bad bad idea. this is just my opinion though.
I actually had the HIDs measured at something like 4000K+++++, fit into Morette Ecode projector lamps. This kit was $1,200! I learned the hardway that unless you are a lighting/electrical EXPERT, stay away from NON-oem HID kits!!!!! Please, trust me, not only are they hard to deal with, the companies that sell them are impossible to deal with. They are often not even HID, mostly just painted bulbs. AND, if they are retrofitted, chances are you lose your highbeam and the reflectors weren't meant for them so the beam will suck. yes, it will. Sorry to be so bitter about HIDs but they aren't worth it unless they are OEM. By the way, anyone thinking of buying HID lights from www.hids4less... read here first! http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=305937. I am actually about to enter legal action with them as they did not stand by their product, which was delivered and installed, by them, with a flaw.
on another note, if you own a subaru, join that board, they are increadible in the community. so nice and informative, its great.
in summation, unless you want to tinker with your lights constantly, and your a pro, my opinioin is to stay away from HID.
I think that retrofitting HID is a bad bad idea. this is just my opinion though.
I actually had the HIDs measured at something like 4000K+++++, fit into Morette Ecode projector lamps. This kit was $1,200! I learned the hardway that unless you are a lighting/electrical EXPERT, stay away from NON-oem HID kits!!!!! Please, trust me, not only are they hard to deal with, the companies that sell them are impossible to deal with. They are often not even HID, mostly just painted bulbs. AND, if they are retrofitted, chances are you lose your highbeam and the reflectors weren't meant for them so the beam will suck. yes, it will. Sorry to be so bitter about HIDs but they aren't worth it unless they are OEM. By the way, anyone thinking of buying HID lights from www.hids4less... read here first! http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=305937. I am actually about to enter legal action with them as they did not stand by their product, which was delivered and installed, by them, with a flaw.
on another note, if you own a subaru, join that board, they are increadible in the community. so nice and informative, its great.
in summation, unless you want to tinker with your lights constantly, and your a pro, my opinioin is to stay away from HID.
