PCS TSS Malfunction - suspect heat?

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Joined
Apr 13, 2022
Threads
2
Messages
93
Location
Collierville, Tennessee
Ok guys. Frustrated. 2017, bought in 2022. It gets hot here but never experienced this until this year.

I start up for a long road trip. In the morning, no issues. Drive a few hours and fuel up. Start getting these messages. Can’t disable. Truck drives find but can’t use cruise or anything here. Frustrated, I drove onward.

I get to a stop and rest about 15 minutes. Truck cranks without messages. Odd. Drove hours without a problem. Everything worked.

Stop again. Error messages. It’s 96-100 degrees outside. I wonder at this point if it’s heat.

I had a Donger USB adapter running a traffic cam. I removed it, thinking it was generating extra heat.

I stopped for the night.

Next morning I woke up to complete my drive. No problems. It was about 80 degrees.

I finished my drive, thinking that removing the Donger fixed it. I suspected it was generating extra heat and overheating the module mounted by my rear view mirror. So far that seemed to be the case.

Fast forward to a week later. I completed my drive home no issue. No errors. Now I’m back in town. It’s still 97 outside in Memphis. I drive to REI. No errors.

I go in, buy my stuff, and come out. Error messages. My truck had been running for 30 minutes, then sat in the sunny parking lot for about 15 minutes. I crank it up and got the error messages again.

These things run in the desert. How is 100 degrees killing this thing? Has anyone else seen this? This is really disappointing, I’m looking for any suggestions.

I removed the cover off my module behind the mirror and the heat gun showed 110 degrees.

Edit: No codes showing on Scangauge II

Thoughts?

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That's odd for sure.

Assuming this all started after your dashcam was put in, did you install the dashcam? If so, where'd you tap into? If not, maybe the installation shop did weird stuff? My dashcams run hot, especially in the summer. But it does not cause any sorts of vehicle gremlins.

If timing is not related to dashcam, my shot in the dark would be to see if your battery is going bad. In your area of the country, I have not had any batteries last longer than 4 years without starting to have issues.
 
Do 16+ rigs have the radar antenna behind the grille too? I know that unit is important for PCS in the earlier rigs.

Could those brackets be heating up and putting the antenna out of alignment?

Any lift or mod that would change the level of the vehicle? (And possibly get the cameras or antenna out of alignment)
 
Assuming this all started after your dashcam was put in, did you install the dashcam? If so, where'd you tap into? If not, maybe the installation shop did weird stuff? My dashcams run hot, especially in the summer. But it does not cause any sorts of vehicle gremlins.
I installed with a Donger adapter. It uses the auto-wiper and requires no cutting, splicing, etc. I have since completely removed it.

Any lift or mod that would change the level of the vehicle? (And possibly get the cameras or antenna out of alignment)
2" Dobinsons - had it on for a couple years. Slee offroad did my alignment, they know what they are doing (most places don't with a lift).
If timing is not related to dashcam, my shot in the dark would be to see if your battery is going bad. In your area of the country, I have not had any batteries last longer than 4 years without starting to have issues.
I have wondered about the battery. It's not uncommon to see odd things. It's about 2.5 years old, and a Wal-mart special, so maybe it's dying. I'll toss a voltmeter on it soon. Weirdly, in the morning, it cranks fine. When it's been running a while the issue can present. You'd think if the battery was low it would have trouble early, when it's been sitting. Also, generator is good, it's making the 13.6v i'm expecting.

Good suggestions, I'm really hoping one day I figure it out and this thread helps the next poor guy.
 
Dongar stuff looks nice from a fit and finish standpoint - I didn't know this was an option as I may have pursued it myself! I didn't get to see what sort of amperage their dashcam draws, but wonder if the current demands might be playing havoc with the cpu as you suspected?

You may have done this given your response, but if you don't have a battery/alternator tester at home check out a couple autoparts stores and they'll test it. The reason I say a "couple" is that I had one (that I bought my battery from) indicate the battery was "fine" with their tester. Across the street, a dead cell was indicated on the test. Cool. :hillbilly:
 
2" Dobinsons - had it on for a couple years. Slee offroad did my alignment, they know what they are doing (most places don't with a lift).

What I’m suggesting wouldn’t be the alignment, it would be the radar antenna calibration. Or possibly the camera calibration. Per Toyota FSM both need to be re-aimed when the vehicle changes attitude, which often happens with a lift.

I personally don’t see how the camera could drift with heat but I could see the front antenna moving. If somehow it was at the very edge of it’s allowable range and thermal expansion made it drift further out..

Far from sure, but just trying to think through your stated symptoms.
 
I would check out the radar at the grill behind the emblem and connectors for the same first. Check the wiring and unplug/plug.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I’m trying to find a way to consistently replicate it. So far all I’ve been able to do is isolate how to get it to stop once it starts.

That typically involves allowing the module to cool down.

FYI Slee did a zero point calibration after my alignment, which I wasn’t sure they needed to but in my experience they go above and beyond. They are expensive but so far haven’t given me cause to doubt they do what they say.

Edit: Issue occurred before Slee touched my truck. I’m not suggesting they did anything to make it occur.

I’ll keep digging and report back anything I find.

Btw the 2017 uses TSS-P with camera and radar.
 
Just an update. Weather hasn't been over 93F in the past few days, so the issue hasn't reoccured. I removed the plastic cover on the front camera mounted on the windshield and used a IR heat gun to check temps. It seems to function up to about 150F. The metal housing of that thing was so hot I couldn't hold my hand on it.

A few notes:

1. My 200 is Black, so it's probably the hottest version temp wise.
2. I have to drive the truck a while, maybe 20 - 30 minutes, to get that module nice and hot, then park it in direct sunlight during the highest UV part of the day. This is easy to accomplish when it's 90+ outside, and I drive to a store, park in a parking lot.
3. If I remove the plastic cover on the windshield, I think it helps with heat dissipation, especially since the module is metal, and acts like a heat sink.

That seems to be the only way to replicate this.

I also have a replacement windshield, and suspect maybe the OEM had some different tint or coating over the camera that an aftermarket doesn't? That might reduce UV-B and keep the unit cooler, working like window tint does.

Either way, I suspect this is the last post until next summer, or another heat wave. At this point I have some confidence I at least know what it is, and how to help prevent the issue from re-occuring as often.

Tips for those in the future who read this:

1. Keep an eye on Dongar adapters for dash cams, or whatever generates extra heat.
2. Maybe a windshield reflector could help, but since the camera is exposed to the outside, it might not. Then again, it could keep the temps in the cabin cooler...
3. If it happens, and you suspect heat, find shade.
4. Once the errors start, they won't automatically turn off, you'll need to let the module cool off, then start the truck up again after it's reached a cooler temp.
5. I think anything over 140F on the metal (measured from in the cabin to the back of the metal forward camera) is likely going to cause trouble.

I wish the rock solid reliability of a Land Cruiser wasn't crippled by the electronics that can't be disabled. I'd like to use the features, but one reason I avoided Land Rovers and Defenders were they are an electronic time bomb. It's a bummer a secondary system harrasses you so much.

Note: At no point did temps on the engine, oil, or trans get too hot. Mechanically, the truck didn't struggle driving 800 miles across Kansas in 100F heat.
 
Small two updates:

The other day dash showed 101F, truck was in sunlight, parked for maybe an hour. Seems fine. This leads me to suspect the module had time to cool down some. It's more likely to happen in these conditions when it's been driven 30+ minutes, parked for 10 or less minutes, and then back on the road. Gas stations along road trips are a good example of this type of activity.

Other strange thing. One of the times, my RCTA and BSM weren't on. I didn't disable them. I went into the menu, and they were off. I turned them on. They functioned fine. I have driven several days since, no issues.

I did check alternator, and battery. Seems good. Checked fuses, seems good.

Nothing else to report for now.

Beginning to think my module is just dying.
 
I had the issue arise after the truck was parked for a day or more. So I have been letting my wife use the truck lately due to seat comfort. I was using our 2012 GX and was gone for a 24hr shift. my 2016 is in the garage for the whole day and then through the night. I arrive home middle of the morning the next morning and can't pull in to the garage because when I am not home the WHOLE garage belongs to my wife and she parks in the middle. :rolleyes:. Anyways truck is in the garage and we are having 90+ degree days up to 100 degrees. it had to have been right at 90 when I jumped into the truck to move it. Pre Collision system failure alert and Christmas tree on the dash. I keep an OBDII blue tooth in the truck but no readable codes for my set up. turned the truck off and back on. Warning and lights are still on. I am not going to drive it or figure it out at this point so I move the truck and go about my day. Of course this has been on my mind lately, thinking about what module is malfunctioning and where I can get Techstream to read body codes. Today my wife jumps in it 3 days later and no warnings are on. Just went away and she left about the same time of day as when I found the issue........ I really hate intermittent problems...
 
I had the issue arise after the truck was parked for a day or more. So I have been letting my wife use the truck lately due to seat comfort. I was using our 2012 GX and was gone for a 24hr shift. my 2016 is in the garage for the whole day and then through the night. I arrive home middle of the morning the next morning and can't pull in to the garage because when I am not home the WHOLE garage belongs to my wife and she parks in the middle. :rolleyes:. Anyways truck is in the garage and we are having 90+ degree days up to 100 degrees. it had to have been right at 90 when I jumped into the truck to move it. Pre Collision system failure alert and Christmas tree on the dash. I keep an OBDII blue tooth in the truck but no readable codes for my set up. turned the truck off and back on. Warning and lights are still on. I am not going to drive it or figure it out at this point so I move the truck and go about my day. Of course this has been on my mind lately, thinking about what module is malfunctioning and where I can get Techstream to read body codes. Today my wife jumps in it 3 days later and no warnings are on. Just went away and she left about the same time of day as when I found the issue........ I really hate intermittent problems...
Thanks for the share. When it happened to me I was several hundred miles from my house, I had no choice but to drive it. But it seemed to not make a difference, truck drove fine. I just didn't have BSM, RCTA, PCS, and Radar Cruise. Other than the Christmas tree, the truck will drive fine. Just super annoying. Good to hear some additional data, so thanks.

The module I believe in question is the one behind the black trim piece on the windshield, behind rear view mirror.
 
Issue never re-appeared. Gonna leave it for now. I think it was extreme heat. Hopefully this thread helps someone else in the future. I'm back to not thinking about it, so I guess I'll move on with my life.

Good luck out there!
 
Issue continued to show up intermittently, seemingly only during hot weather, long drives. However, it started showing up even more often as of late, even without that situation.

I had the guys at O'Reilly run the codes when it was finally happening often enough to catch it.

Turns out I'm an idiot. A damaged ABS Speed Sensor was the culprit. It affects PCS and Blind Spot somehow. Left Rear was damaged during lift installation, but I didn't think much of it because I didn't get any dash lights or issues. A few months go by, I forgot about it. It slowly, intermittently starting throwing errors.

Installer? Me. Guy with crowbar, removing shock, at a bad angle? Me. First lift installed? Nope, did at least 20 over the years.

So sorry for the fire drill guys. Hopefully this saves someone some heartache one day. ABS Speed Sensors are 100% part of the PCS and BSM systems.
 

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