I am talking to several local body shops and geting estimates on a complete re-paint of my 40. I know everyone seems to have a strong opinion about clearcoat vs. single stage finishes. What experiences have you guys had? I had planned to go with a factory orig. look and stick with the single stage, but today a body shop owner had me convinced that I'd regret it. I'm probably going to go with Dune Beige (orig. color) or one of the two shades of green. I'd really appreciate any pictures that you guys could share of your final product in clear coat and single stage so I can get a better fill for what that would look like on my FJ40.
PAINT - Clearcoat or single stage
- Thread starter Elk Hunter
- Start date
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If you plan on wheeling it and getting into tight spots single stage it. If you are using it as a dd or street rig Clearcoat it.
I went with single stage- with the right amount of orange peel for that OEM look
Photos of the whole process here
click on the various pages to get to the color coat
I went with single stage- with the right amount of orange peel for that OEM look
Photos of the whole process here
click on the various pages to get to the color coat
Adventure Teq
SILVER Star
Damn desertdude, that is some nice work! Consider your website BOOKMARKED HA. I was wondering bout that too, so thanks.
HA. I was wondering bout that too, so thanks.
Thanks! I only had 12 days to do the work. That was also a consideration on the single stage paint choice.
I vote for single stage and clear coat 
Or just single stage.
Or just single stage.
buckroseau
May I have another!!!
I use single stage and base/clear quite often. On things like my frame, axles, misc. brakets and other parts, I use ppg's DP/LF series of epoxy primer with ppg's MTK line of single stage urethane paint.
On the vehicle itself I use ppg's MTK line of base color and ppg's Concept DCU 2021 clear. I think your going to get a deeper / higher gloss with base / clear, but single stage is also nice. You probably could save a few bucks by going with the single stage, but not to much. I don't what the body shops are quoting you, but the material difference in paint wouldn't be to much, probably a couple hundred bucks (if that) more for base / clear. The prep work to get to painting is the same either way, also time to spray is about the same. Depending on who your getting paint through, a gallon of MTK single stage ureathane is about $100 bucks, $40 for the catalyst, $25 for the reducer. MTK's base is about $80 a gallon, $220 for a gallon of Concept DCU 2021, $40 for the catalyst, $25 for the reducer.
I don't know if your doing inside and out and the bottom, or just the outside? If you were doing inside, out and bottom you probably would go through a couple gallons of single stage. You would also go through a couple gallons of base, but you would only need a gallon of clear. So really there isn't a whole lot of price difference.
I have some pics of my cruiser project on my website:
http://www.crustycruisers.com/mattpicpage9.htm
Pretty much the only color on my cruiser that is base / clear is the yellow. My white hard top is single stage, along with frame, axles, misc. brackets, all interior metal components, etc....
Both paints spray different, but as far as ease or difficulty of spray, both spray about the same that way.
Hope this helps, Matt
On the vehicle itself I use ppg's MTK line of base color and ppg's Concept DCU 2021 clear. I think your going to get a deeper / higher gloss with base / clear, but single stage is also nice. You probably could save a few bucks by going with the single stage, but not to much. I don't what the body shops are quoting you, but the material difference in paint wouldn't be to much, probably a couple hundred bucks (if that) more for base / clear. The prep work to get to painting is the same either way, also time to spray is about the same. Depending on who your getting paint through, a gallon of MTK single stage ureathane is about $100 bucks, $40 for the catalyst, $25 for the reducer. MTK's base is about $80 a gallon, $220 for a gallon of Concept DCU 2021, $40 for the catalyst, $25 for the reducer.
I don't know if your doing inside and out and the bottom, or just the outside? If you were doing inside, out and bottom you probably would go through a couple gallons of single stage. You would also go through a couple gallons of base, but you would only need a gallon of clear. So really there isn't a whole lot of price difference.
I have some pics of my cruiser project on my website:
http://www.crustycruisers.com/mattpicpage9.htm
Pretty much the only color on my cruiser that is base / clear is the yellow. My white hard top is single stage, along with frame, axles, misc. brackets, all interior metal components, etc....
Both paints spray different, but as far as ease or difficulty of spray, both spray about the same that way.
Hope this helps, Matt
I went with a single stage...Rustic Green...$2200.00
all rust cut out / new welded in....full metal jacket again....
I have pics of the complete process as well, but not posted anywhere.
I am extremely happy with it....any scratches....shop mentioned bring it in I will buff em out for as long as you own your truck.
all rust cut out / new welded in....full metal jacket again....
I have pics of the complete process as well, but not posted anywhere.
I am extremely happy with it....any scratches....shop mentioned bring it in I will buff em out for as long as you own your truck.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks for the awesome info
AlaskanWheeler
SILVER Star
Desert Dude;
How did you manage to get the factory sound matting meterial off the floor boards? I'm running into the same situation with my '81.
How did you manage to get the factory sound matting meterial off the floor boards? I'm running into the same situation with my '81.
If you are gonna wheel it go with the single stage (easier to touch up) if its gonna be a show car clearcoat. I think CCOT recomends single stage.
Mine was a rusty pink color when i got it. I stripped it down to bare metal, primed it and painted with single stage. I had a couple scratches on it that I fixed last week. Easy to repair small stuff with the single stage.
Nice Truck, Robert, is it wearing 33x9.50s, and if so, did you need any lift to fit them?
1 Vote for Clear Coat (hey that rhymes)
pics of my project at....
http://geocities.com/d_s_p_e_c_4/
Doug
pics of my project at....
http://geocities.com/d_s_p_e_c_4/
Doug
AlaskanWheeler said:
AlaskanWheeler
I took mine off with a wire wheel on a 4 1/2" angle grinder... Throws it all over the shop but takes it off.
Same with the undercoat.
thanks Jim. no lift, stock springs, 33 x9.5 BFGsjim45r said:
Bob
I used a wood chisel and a hammer to chip it off in chunks when it was cool out in the AM for most of it. Then I went to a scraper, then to a rag with mineral spirits. Took me almost 4 hours to get it all off. The paint underneath was immaculate What a pain it was!
What a pain it was!
I just did single stage, got more orange peel and runs than I cared for due to inexperience. Nice thing about single stage is its real easy to mix up a fresh batch and re-coat stuff.
