OVERTHUNK — Custom fuse panel (1 Viewer)

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So another one of my overthunk projects….

On my main battery I wanted to have clean fuse panel. And have it mounted to my SLEE battery strap. With the ability to remove it if needed.

Supplies (links are below)
ABS Board
Quick disconnect buttons
3/8” foam weather stripping
Red/blue locktite
Busman fuses
Circuit breakers
Screws

ABS Board
7.25” x 8.5” x 0.25”
A hook utility blade makes cuttting to size very easy. Get thru about 1/3-1/2 thickness and will break easily over the corner of table. And some sanding blocks to chamfer and round the edges and corners.

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Quick disconnect
3/4” hole saw
Blue or red locktite. I might even stake the nut as it is soft aluminum and I don’t want anything shaking loose and falling toward the battery

The posts were the hard part. Marked out on the SLEE bracket and drilled with a step drill. Took a lot of time. Used some tap oil. Need to fix my drill press…
Used a deburr tool and file to clean up the edges.

Then I set the post the lowest I could and tighten the nut. Marked and then trimmed the threads down so they were just past the nut. Then installed them with red locktite.

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2 strips of the weatherstrip where the raised edges of the SLEE bracket are and this provides for a tight fit. Without the weather strip it would float and tilt back and forth. Plus it’s a little cushion to the shakes and bumps.


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Fuses
I’m very uneducated when it comes to electrical so if any wiring gurus have some tips please let me know.


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Breaker in the left corner will feed the busbar for all the fuses. Allow me to shut everything off if needed. It will connect to the 2nd fuse. I have a 50A installed in the mock-up. But the SBI will probably need a 100A fuse so I will likely swap it out.

Fuses from left to right
Redarc BCDC1225D
SBI to link the battery’s when needed
ARB compressor 1
ARB compressor 2
(Right side has enough space for one more fuse but I think these are the only things I plan to run off my main battery)
(I did trim the lower tab on the 2nd fuse to get around the disconnect button)

Breaker on the left bottom will be power to Anderson plug at the back to charge trailer. So I can shut if off completely when daily driving.

My ARB Linx has a small inline 5A fuse so will likely just piggyback on any of the positive posts.

(For the trailer breaker does it make any sense to piggy back it to the main breaker? To make it a true master switch. I’m leaning no and just go straight to battery)

Empty spot in upper right will be for when I get a winch and either do some sort of high capacity breaker or marine switch or something.

Could do something very similar without the quick disconnect. Maybe just some long bolts or even a weld on nut on the bracket that you could screw the panel to.

As rig grows will run all other accessories off AUX battery. That’s another overthunk project on the way…..

Will post pics in the rig after doing some more wiring.



Falken Design ABS-BK-1-4/1212 ABS Textured Plastic Sheet 1/4" (0.250"), 12" x 12" - Black, Plastic Amazon product ASIN B07BCVL7QL
YUANTUO 4PCS 1.25 inch Universal Aluminum Vehicle Hood Pins for Auto Car DIY, Bumper Quick Latch Release License Plate Lock Clip Black Push Button Bonnet Alloy Amazon product ASIN B08CB1F7RD
 
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Sort of off topic here but how much experience do you have with those breakers? For 2 years I’ve been running a Bussmann 50 amp for the Anderson plug that powers my camper and I’ve recently started having issues. It trips and won’t reset and I’ve gone throughout the wiring with a multi gauge and can’t find a single culprit. I’m beginning to lean towards the breaker as the fault, possibly temperature related.

For your case, the breaker does work well as a switch and I agree, trailer breaker straight to the battery separate from the fuse panel. Segregated components are easier to troubleshoot and one issue won’t shut other components off. The downside to this is if you have a fault while driving you won’t know until you get out and check your trailer charge. Having my recent issues it would be nice to have a way to know my camper breaker tripped while driving, an idiot light would accomplish this.
 
Curious about the red things, they are fuses? Got a link?
 
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SDHQ terminals
Panel test fit
One change I might have made is maybe making it a tiny bit narrower. It would give a little better access to the thru 3/8” bolt for attachments. Don’t think I’ll be using many of the 1/4” studs.

But with my quick disconnects it’s very easy to shift the panel a little bit to get access to nuts and bolts.

Other picture is grommets with compressor wiring and LINX wiring. And it will
Come out right near the wiper fluid spout. I added zip ties just because I was worried grommets could come loose and also it’s hidden so can’t really keep an eye on it.
 
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These were the grommets used
I think I could fit larger ones if they make them.
Compressor and LINX wiring was a snug fit

You have to take the fuse out and pass the wires one by one to get it to pass


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Added a 50amp Anderson at the rear and did some re routing of wires on both sides of my rig.

The rubber grommets were too constrictive. This ended guard stuff is awesome. My new favorite tool. Way able to line the holes to run wires and utilize more of the space

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Great idea and very nice write. Looking to do something similar in my gx460. What Slee Battery Tray did you use? I have a Group 27 battery and wondering if it would work. I am also a bit paranoid and wondering if in the case of accident, could things shift and potentially the neg and pos from the battery connect through the abs panel. I believe that abs plastic has low conductivity so it theoretically should not be a problem.
 
This looks awesome. I'm working on heading down a similar path now, and this is one of best setups for cost/ease of manufacture I've seen. Not trying to poke holes in anything, just seeing if it was something you considered and decided against. Any reason you didn't use acrylic sheet over the abs sheet? In my cursory search, acrylic has better heat resistance. I would guess they are similar to machine.
 
Great idea and very nice write. Looking to do something similar in my gx460. What Slee Battery Tray did you use? I have a Group 27 battery and wondering if it would work. I am also a bit paranoid and wondering if in the case of accident, could things shift and potentially the neg and pos from the battery connect through the abs panel. I believe that abs plastic has low conductivity so it theoretically should not be a problem.
SLEE main battery tray will accommodate up to a 31 in the main battery area

The SLEE aux will only take a 35. but I am working on a work around....stay tuned

I think the main concern is pos touching anything that is grounded....even the chassis
ABS is pure plastic so it is a super low conductive surface...so I don't think its a concern unless you know something I don't

This looks awesome. I'm working on heading down a similar path now, and this is one of best setups for cost/ease of manufacture I've seen. Not trying to poke holes in anything, just seeing if it was something you considered and decided against. Any reason you didn't use acrylic sheet over the abs sheet? In my cursory search, acrylic has better heat resistance. I would guess they are similar to machine.

No particular reason that I used ABS other then I thought of it and I thought it looked more automotive then a super flat shiny sheet of acrylic.
 

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