Over heating 100 series

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pilbarajim

10 Year
Joined
Sep 1, 2011
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1
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5
Location
Newman, Western Australia
Hi all.

I have a 100 series (2004) with 150,000 on the clock, I overheated it a fair while ago after snapping belts (reason unknown. since then the car over heats when under load though it is fine in winter up here. There doesn't appear to be any oil in water or vice versa. I have changed out the radiator, water pump, thermostat and viscous hub, A mate who is a mechanic has also done the head gasket and nothing has changed.

My question is: has anyone had similar problems, does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance

Cheers

Jamie
 
I had these same symptoms in an ES250 cracked head.
 
different but not the point. same symptoms, same attempts to fix. probably are getting hot exhaust gasses into the coolant. have your coolant tested to be sure...
 
Would hot exhaust gasses in the coolant cause the fan clutch to engage more than usual?
 
pilbarajim said:
Thanks Cappy, I am getting a cylinder leakage test done on Monday as the mechanic doesn't do the co2 test
Click to expand...

Leakdown test may not show it. You need to test for CO / CO2 in the coolant. Blackstone test maybe? I have read that they sell kits to test yourself but have never tried one.
 
CappyKD said:
Need more details.
Click to expand...

Well my mom's ran a little hot the other day (not exactly serious, needle got about 2/3 to the red in stop-and-go with the A/C on), and I've just heard the fan clutch coming on more than I'm used to as of late...
 
Well, I changed the timing belt and water pump(back to original) the other day, had a leak down test and a coolant system pressure check done(all good) but now I am losing coolant. It seems to me it is a head problem but the mechanics are all telling me it can't be because of the results of all the other test.

any further ideas would be much appreciated ........:)
 
it could be air pockets from the tb job. try to bleed it (there are a number od techniques - some more effective/immediatethan others).

after my timing belt it took me two or three refills of the coolant reservoir - i thought i had a leak or something but it was just air pockets. 10k later evrythings good - coolant level is at the same spot.

assuming you cant find any leaks and oil isnt tainted with coolant, i'd try either proactively bleeding or just let it bleed over a few weeks by refilling the coolant reservoir a couple more times as needed (just keep track of how much you're adding). i changed my radiator cap for good measure too.

as far as bleeding theres the park on a steep slope with heat on (iirc) method (to get radiator cap at the highest point), the squeeze the coolant lines method (to force coolant into the air pockets), and the machine method (purpose built to force coolant in place of air pockets.
 
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you can have significant air pockets in cooling system....recommend filling...driving...check and fill as necessary. May take a couple weeks before you stop seeing movement on coolant level if you are sure it is not leaking or coming out exhaust pipe.
 
How long has it been since you flushed you cooling system?
Have you checked your thermostat is still in working order? Has it been installed correctly?
Bleed your cooling system and pressure test it.
Pressure test your radiator cap, because if it is old and doesn't hold the pressure (OEM original cap is 1.1, not 0.9 like many cheapies) it will very likely to overheat.
 
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