Out with the old...In with the new...sorta

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Joined
Jun 20, 2005
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46
Messages
362
Location
Shawnee, KS
Well while most of you were sitting comfortably around a fire Saturday night talking about your day of wheeling I was doing something I hope I never have to do again...

Removing a transmission.:crybaby:

It took just about 5 hours but we finally got the Auto out just shy of 2AM. The 5spd is all set to go. If all goes as planed I'll get it bolted up this weekend and run all the plumbing next week.

Out w/ the old
auto_tran.jpg


In w/ the new
tranny-tc.jpg
 
have really liked a dual case at FN

That's good to hear! The dual case wasn't in the orginal plan aka budget for my build...but then I (uh I mean Erik) justified it by saying I'd eventually do it and I don't want to pay for the driveshaft mods twice.

I hope the install of the 5spd is easier than the removal of the auto.
 
I LOVE Spending other people's money much more than I enjoy spending my own!
when you put it back in make sure you can spin the gears.. Put all the cases in high and tranny in 1st so you can reach the tcase output and align the splines on the clutch when you push it in.
 
Yes sir, you would have really liked a dual case at FN. I'm purdy sure the buggy will be dual cased (at a minimum)

Mike

Dual stock cases will only get you slightly lower than I am now with a single case with a 4.7gearset (5.19). My current overall ratio (with 5.29's in the diffs) is 98:1. If you keep the stock 4.10s in the diffs, you will be at 84:1. There were a few places where I would have liked to have had something just a little slower.
 
What are you using for a crossmember?

I went with the BudBuilt.

Dual stock cases will only get you slightly lower than I am now with a single case with a 4.7gearset (5.19).

This is true. I figured I would run it in this configuration for awhile and perhaps try to catch one of Marlin's sales on the 4.7 gears at a later date.

...make sure you can spin the gears.. Put all the cases in high and tranny in 1st

Thanks for the heads up - I wouldn't have thought to do that.
 
what are you doing for driveshafts? Long slip in the front?


I haven't really thought about that yet. Going with Bob's suggestion I will be using the cv off the front shaft and putting it on the rear to cut down on the vibration.
 
Do what bob says. I was going to recomend that if no one else has. Try and have a local shop build them rather than sending them off to someone to make sure you use the '85 cv. the 84-84 front cv is the same size as the '86+ only it can be ran at higher angularity. 86+ cv's can be clearanced to run higher angles but they need to be disasembled.

There's a guy here in topeka that I recomend. works at "truck parts" (a bigrig shop) Excelent workmanship, and reasonably priced...

Bob are you running a long slip shaft in front? ever separate the splines when all flexxed up?

When I was running single t-case I had the rear d-shaft up front and ocasionally would separate the shaft on hillclimbs if I was bouncing the front end.
 
Bob are you running a long slip shaft in front? ever separate the splines when all flexxed up?

When I was running single t-case I had the rear d-shaft up front and ocasionally would separate the shaft on hillclimbs if I was bouncing the front end.


Did that at Tuttle last year. This year I switched to a high pinion front diff, 1" shorter front shackles and an 80 series front shaft and haven't had it happen again.
 
What are the differences between the stock shaft and the 80?

Slightly longer splines and uses the larger 10mm bolts. Different pattern requires redrilling the flanges or replacement with one of Marlin's triple drilled flanges.

I had a spare one and it was cheaper to shorten it than lengthen the original one.
 
Slightly longer splines and uses the larger 10mm bolts. Different pattern requires redrilling the flanges or replacement with one of Marlin's triple drilled flanges.

Learn something new all the time, thanks.....


So are the ujoints the same size? I've always assumed they were but never been able to compare side by side. Any chance the '80 bolt pattern is the same as the '84+(mini)? (this could be a nice cv source for an '80 or '60)

I think the '84+ mini's also used the 10 mil bolts IIRC.

Randy, get the clutch pedal assembly in? pics?
 
received a call stating he was having issues with one or 2 bolts bottoming out.. Solved that on the phone should be in by now ! UPDATE PICS NEEDED..
 
Is this what you are looking for?

As Erik mentioned we ran into a little dilemma and as he so politley put it, we were experiencing some tunnel vision and couldn't figure out why the top two tranny bolts started getting really tight with still a 1/4 left to screw in. All he had to say was "are you using the same bolts from the Auto?":doh:

My answer was yes and i quickly realized the bolts were too long and were bottoming out.

Everything is installed. I still need to run some of the plumbing and drill a hole in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder.

It's a shame you'll never see the shiniest part.

p_plate.jpg



skid.jpg
 

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