you got water in the spark plug tubes.... that sounds like a problem
Our 80 won't start...
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you got water in the spark plug tubes.... that sounds like a problem
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- #22
I did see a thread on that and checked them the one time it rained hard, didn't find anything wet. With the cold, not wet problems, didn't fit the "profile".
Going out to do the head/block test I found in another thread. I got the "kit" from Autozone's loaner program (with ~$30 deposit). Will post results in a few...
Going out to do the head/block test I found in another thread. I got the "kit" from Autozone's loaner program (with ~$30 deposit). Will post results in a few...
Jerry if you need an extra set of eyes or hands, I can come by Sunday.
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- #25
Thanks guys for the support.
Sorry for the delay in reporting the results of the test. I had to run to work and am playing with my video camera.
YouTube - engine block test
I performed the test twice. The first time, I didn't remove enough coolant and some must have been sucked into the tube. The may be an "F-bomb" or two during the video, sorry.
Second time, milked the bulb for almost 4 min, no contamination. The test makes a lot of sense to me, is easy to perform and cost nothing but a deposit with Autozone (got full refund when I returned the kit).
Relieved that the test was negative, back to the task at hand and further troubleshooting...
Sorry for the delay in reporting the results of the test. I had to run to work and am playing with my video camera.
YouTube - engine block test
I performed the test twice. The first time, I didn't remove enough coolant and some must have been sucked into the tube. The may be an "F-bomb" or two during the video, sorry.
Second time, milked the bulb for almost 4 min, no contamination. The test makes a lot of sense to me, is easy to perform and cost nothing but a deposit with Autozone (got full refund when I returned the kit).
Relieved that the test was negative, back to the task at hand and further troubleshooting...
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- #27
Good stuff Jerry - and yeah, I caught an F bomb or 12. So offended
Glad there's no issue w/ head gasket, but sorry you have to continue troubleshooting.
R
Thanks. I'm really glad someone came up with this testing. I'll still give the plugs a good look when I'm changing them out but I'm relieved.
I've simply not paid a bit of attention to it, letting the girls drive it, change the oil, clean the air filter and report any issues as they arise. I'm sure a fresh set of plugs, wires, fuel filter, coolant flush and checking the dizzy/timing couldn't hurt in the process...
Up on top of Cullowhee we had an 80 (information junky) that wouldn't start and there was a bunch of wires in a loom behind
the drivers side exhaust manifold that had fallen and melted. I jumped a wire to the coil and it fired up.
I didn't mention this earlier, because you said it had spark, but this could also be an intermittent problem. Won't take but a minute to check, though. Good luck.
the drivers side exhaust manifold that had fallen and melted. I jumped a wire to the coil and it fired up.
I didn't mention this earlier, because you said it had spark, but this could also be an intermittent problem. Won't take but a minute to check, though. Good luck.
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- #30
Some follow up...
Check engine light gives code p0130 and p0133 = O2 sensor, bank 1 "upstream". May be a factor in the random starting issue. Sorry for the mistake...
But, to just throw a little sense into it, I thought it made sense to change out the plugs/wires/cap/rotor and coolant flush. Trying to get a good read on these plugs, what do you think, replace?
I really like how the electrode is so well worn and how much material has been "eaten" away through the years. I'm betting they are original.
Amazing how a fresh set of the above makes a difference in how it performs. Now to decide if I need to try and salvage the existing exhaust w/defective O2 sensor or ???...
Check engine light gives code p0130 and p0133 = O2 sensor, bank 1 "upstream". May be a factor in the random starting issue. Sorry for the mistake...
But, to just throw a little sense into it, I thought it made sense to change out the plugs/wires/cap/rotor and coolant flush. Trying to get a good read on these plugs, what do you think, replace?
I really like how the electrode is so well worn and how much material has been "eaten" away through the years. I'm betting they are original.
Amazing how a fresh set of the above makes a difference in how it performs. Now to decide if I need to try and salvage the existing exhaust w/defective O2 sensor or ???...
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Don't know whether they are original, but they definitely aren't new. I bet those have at least 60k miles on them. I believe Toyota recommends replacing the plugs every 30k if using standard copper.
What's wrong with the exhaust and O2 sensor? With changing the ignition parts, I would make sure to clear all codes again and see if the 0300 and 0303 show up again in the next couple of trips. I have a rear O2 sensor (original) that I replaced with 110k on it. I'm not sure that anything is wrong with it.
Since the 0300 and 0303 are misfire codes, if they come back I would recommend checking the EGR system (EGR modulator and maybe EGR VSV) and the timing.
What's wrong with the exhaust and O2 sensor? With changing the ignition parts, I would make sure to clear all codes again and see if the 0300 and 0303 show up again in the next couple of trips. I have a rear O2 sensor (original) that I replaced with 110k on it. I'm not sure that anything is wrong with it.
Since the 0300 and 0303 are misfire codes, if they come back I would recommend checking the EGR system (EGR modulator and maybe EGR VSV) and the timing.
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The new plugs recomend a 100k interval i believe
Not unless you are running iridiums. I've switch to Denso iridiums in the 80 and just replaced the iridiums in the 100. Seem like good plugs, plus Robbie recommends them.
Not unless you are running iridiums. I've switch to Denso iridiums in the 80 and just replaced the iridiums in the 100. Seem like good plugs, plus Robbie recommends them.
That's what I meant by the new plugs
I think every new toyota comes with em from the factory, I know Andrea's Matrix did as well as my buddies Avalon
Plugs do not perform well for that 100K though. The computer compensates for their deteriation as time passes. When this happens fuel mileage and performance declines. Changing plugs is easy and a relatively cheap way to maintain your engines performance as well as fuel economy. I generally go 15-20K between plug changes.
As a follow up, here are pics of the iridium plugs that I changed in the 100 series at 100k miles. They still gap .040", so it looks like the iridium plugs do perform well for 100k. In my opinion they are worth the extra money unless you like changing plugs 3 times versus once in 100k. Also, the taper on the tip is like that new, it is not wear.
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- #37
Nice pics Clint, they do appear to be in decent shape for 100k.
Follow up on ours...we passed two tests this week, the heavy rain followed by some below freezing temps. We had good starts on both days.
It's my theory that the ECU is detuning the engine from the O2 sensor error code, combined with the worn plugs/wires/cap/rotor made for the inconsistent starts. I just have to decide to just replace the sensor or see if it's worthwhile to have a fresh exhaust installed...
Follow up on ours...we passed two tests this week, the heavy rain followed by some below freezing temps. We had good starts on both days.
It's my theory that the ECU is detuning the engine from the O2 sensor error code, combined with the worn plugs/wires/cap/rotor made for the inconsistent starts. I just have to decide to just replace the sensor or see if it's worthwhile to have a fresh exhaust installed...
Can you confirm that you were or still are having P0300 and P0303 codes? The manual says those are misfire codes, not O2. If those are the codes (P030x) you are getting, I would not worry about the O2 sensors or exhaust. Seems like you were right on the money with replacing the plugs, wires, and cap/rotor.
Have you ever checked the timing? I have a light you can borrow.
Have you ever checked the timing? I have a light you can borrow.
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- #39
Clint - thanks for your attention to detail. I'd mistakenly put the wrong error code in my previous post. Thanks to Brianna's notes sticky'd on the page in your FSM, it is code p0130 and 0133, sorry for my error. I still need to verify the reason for the CEL after the tune up...
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No problem, just wanted to double check. If you're still getting the codes for the front sensor I would consider replacing the front O2 sensor. I think the O2 sensors are pretty important to the engine computer to confirm proper fuel/air mixture.
I don't think it's related, but since you've done the other work, have you checked the timing?
I don't think it's related, but since you've done the other work, have you checked the timing?