Opinions on undercarriage rust on this 200?

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Looking at maybe purchasing a 2008 200 from the north and they sent me pics of the undercarriage. Thoughts on the condition? Thanks!

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Welcome to Mud! That much rust should significantly lower the price and will be a lot of work to clean up and treat. The rusted fasteners will make any work on the truck more tedious. There are places in the far rear body underneath and the front suspension that typically show the worst rust and we have no pics of those. It’s doable, but since your in AZ, why not look for a local LC?
 
Welcome to Mud! That much rust should significantly lower the price and will be a lot of work to clean up and treat. The rusted fasteners will make any work on the truck more tedious. There are places in the far rear body underneath and the front suspension that typically show the worst rust and we have no pics of those. It’s doable, but since your in AZ, why not look for a local LC?

Hey thanks for the welcome! Yeah Im on the fence about it. Asking price is 25,900 at 160k miles. Still looking locally between the 200 and the LX570 but its a little tougher. I appreciate the info.
 
Where are you located? If it is somewhere rust will never be a problem it changes the equation, in my opinion.
Edit: just realized you have an Arizona zip code. I’d hold out for a truly clean one.
 
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160k miles ? Thats just normal wear and tear for the miles. Hit it with a shot of fluid Film and you should be good.
 
The tell tell signs are engine under-covers, powertrain skid plate (ladder rack), welds inside the front wheel wells, rear crossmember which is hidden inside the rear bumper but rear area around hitch receiver is indicative.
 
What rust?
 
I just did complete work-over of my 2010 with 95K, well rust can be dealt with but it is a lot of work and sure takes a lot of time to do things right. Well it was me who neglected the car for the 10 years, got a lot out of it and car was really good to me, I felt obligated to do a good job. Cleaning the rust is the worst, painting and spraying only half as bad. Sprayed Boeshield T-9 and Fluid Film inside the frame, POR15 and black Woolwax on frame and suspension/steering components. Im satisfied with the results and hoping to get few more years out the car.

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I just did complete work-over of my 2010 with 95K, well rust can be dealt with but it is a lot of work and sure takes a lot of time to do things right. Well it was me who neglected the car for the 10 years, got a lot out of it and car was really good to me, I felt obligated to do a good job. Cleaning the rust is the worst, painting and spraying only half as bad. Sprayed Boeshield T-9 and Fluid Film inside the frame, POR15 and black Woolwax on frame and suspension/steering components. Im satisfied with the results and hoping to get few more years out the car.

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Good work, looks like it came out great. I heard woolwax is a bit thicker than fluid film and will hold up to splash areas better than fluid film.
 
It is better for paintbrush application but clear Fluid film is better for spraying inside the frame, it flows better, I also went with fluid film on all AHC lines and components. Some Woolwax on the outside of the frame but problem with is that it draws dirt of all sorts and everything sticks to it so I kept it away from suspension and steering components. Inside the frame I started with Boeshield T9, waited couple of days for it to do its job and went heavy with Fluid Film as second layer. Rust is like cancer. What they use on midwestern roads these days is often a compote of salt, calcium chloride and corn syrup, S**T is not only very corrosive but also sticks to your car like a glue.

See it below on my truck, this was our return trip from Colorado, likely somewhere in Nebraska or Iowa.

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Also as I mentioned earlier, any rustproofing you do do not skip on removal of the rear bumper, you maybe up for a surprise, that crossmember would likely be the place where rust is the worst at the frame ends. Without taking the bumper off, to get an idea, inspect the body brackets behind the rear wheel wells, where the rear rubber body mounts sit. It is truly no big deal to take the bumper off if you have to, FSM has all the steps.

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Or, if you live somewhere that doesn’t salt their roads, wait for one that is clean and never have to deal with any of this.
 
Or, if you live somewhere that doesn’t salt their roads, wait for one that is clean and never have to deal with any of this.
Sure, find a car in Texas, even if it is 3-5k more, trust me, it is worth it.
 
Sure, find a car in Texas, even if it is 3-5k more, trust me, it is worth it.
These days almost every state leverages a heavy dose of salt. Sure, maybe not Alabama or Florida but i encountered heavy salting in northern Arizona and west Texas last winter. In the past this was not a thing but it is becoming more and more. I hate salt but apparently it is an easy fix for states.
 
What rust? That one is not that bad at all. Typical for the North. But if you are not from the North why deal with it? It does make it a little harder to service with the occasional frozen bolt.

I haven't been looking at used car prices in a while but that does not sound like a great deal or is it true used car prices are on the rise? I think I paid 23K total taxes/tags 2009 LC 135k miles. Bottom looked identical to the pictures, one owner excellent service records.
 
The last year has made pricing do some really strange things. My friends did very well on their recent 13 LX purchase compared to what’s out there, but ~2.5yrs ago when I bought mine the same vehicle would have been fair price. And this was with 2.5yrs less age.
 

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