howdees all...
just finished with my ome / arb 861 & 862 springs replacement.
for the uninitiated - these are the oem replacements - yielding a reported ~.75 lift
(no castor correction needed)
am running these with toyota shocks and the OME SD24 steering damper
#1. ride comfort and handling is indeed markedly improved.
these springs are much much beefier that stock - and the ride and cornering is much better.
#2. installation was at most a
job - having super tall / heavy jack stands to thusly support your LC via the frame rails was helpful - as you will have to max out you jack (~20") to gain full droop
(and you will need to remove your tires). no special tools are needed - 17 mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets
should cover shoxs, sway bars, and brake line brackets - borrowing another jack from your neighbor too will be helpful - as you balance out support of your axle. some videos show you taking out upper track bar bolts - i did not need to do such - absolutely no need for spring compressors .... again the biggest issue will be attaining "full droop" in your home garage - again tis likley you will need to max out your jack and max out your jack stand - mine are ancient steel beasts i inherited (likely 15+ tons) - would indeed highly recommend such (12 tons) - if you are going to support the LC by the frame rails. asdie from the saftey factor - you will need the height. fronts and back springs are equal to work on - neither more difficult.
heres the video for good reference -
#3. you will likely get springs noted as "A" and "B" - there is much debate on what goes where -
as OME is an aussie company - "A" can be for the drivers side - but down under - the are LHD cars
so is then in the USA "A" on our driver side (RHD) or the passenger (LHD) side ???
in the end - was able to find a obscure blog / technical note from ARB - the recommended setup is
A / B up front and B / A in the rear - at "A" spring is apparently noted to be a bit taller and doing the reverse setup front to back - counterbalances the springs.
Now ARB also provides a big caveat - in that this is there best suggestion - and that after 6 months one should check the settling and height of you LC and make adjustments from there - either by moving springs about or adding in there isoloater / spacer. I did not add the isolater and so far my rig appears to be balanced - with the height of the top of my rim to the bottom of the fender well / flare being 30 mm in the front and 31.5 mm in the rear.
in summary - excellent quality - noticeable improvement in ride and handling - cost is cost -
OME / ARB products are top line so $170 / $340 is what you are going pay - keep in mind they are heavy as fux - thus why i went through 4wheel parts - free shipping to the local store.
am indeed very pleased and can check another off the checklist of the forever LC rebuild / repair / replace....
anyone in the bay area (especially south bay) who needs / wants help with this - feel free to hit me up.
cheers all....235k and rolling....
bf
just finished with my ome / arb 861 & 862 springs replacement.
for the uninitiated - these are the oem replacements - yielding a reported ~.75 lift
(no castor correction needed)
am running these with toyota shocks and the OME SD24 steering damper
#1. ride comfort and handling is indeed markedly improved.
these springs are much much beefier that stock - and the ride and cornering is much better.
#2. installation was at most a


(and you will need to remove your tires). no special tools are needed - 17 mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets
should cover shoxs, sway bars, and brake line brackets - borrowing another jack from your neighbor too will be helpful - as you balance out support of your axle. some videos show you taking out upper track bar bolts - i did not need to do such - absolutely no need for spring compressors .... again the biggest issue will be attaining "full droop" in your home garage - again tis likley you will need to max out your jack and max out your jack stand - mine are ancient steel beasts i inherited (likely 15+ tons) - would indeed highly recommend such (12 tons) - if you are going to support the LC by the frame rails. asdie from the saftey factor - you will need the height. fronts and back springs are equal to work on - neither more difficult.
heres the video for good reference -
#3. you will likely get springs noted as "A" and "B" - there is much debate on what goes where -
as OME is an aussie company - "A" can be for the drivers side - but down under - the are LHD cars
so is then in the USA "A" on our driver side (RHD) or the passenger (LHD) side ???
in the end - was able to find a obscure blog / technical note from ARB - the recommended setup is
A / B up front and B / A in the rear - at "A" spring is apparently noted to be a bit taller and doing the reverse setup front to back - counterbalances the springs.
Now ARB also provides a big caveat - in that this is there best suggestion - and that after 6 months one should check the settling and height of you LC and make adjustments from there - either by moving springs about or adding in there isoloater / spacer. I did not add the isolater and so far my rig appears to be balanced - with the height of the top of my rim to the bottom of the fender well / flare being 30 mm in the front and 31.5 mm in the rear.
in summary - excellent quality - noticeable improvement in ride and handling - cost is cost -
OME / ARB products are top line so $170 / $340 is what you are going pay - keep in mind they are heavy as fux - thus why i went through 4wheel parts - free shipping to the local store.
am indeed very pleased and can check another off the checklist of the forever LC rebuild / repair / replace....
anyone in the bay area (especially south bay) who needs / wants help with this - feel free to hit me up.
cheers all....235k and rolling....
bf