Oil pan damage causing leak or will crush washer fix

[michaelharrisco]

Last night I read quite a few post about crush washers / rubber gaskets and silicon / Teflon around the oil drain plug. I've never had an oil leak on my 78 FJ 40 until 2 days ago after an oil change. I did take note of a small "mark" or damage by the drain plug treads. I honestly was in a pinch and HAD to finish the oil change without a crush washer (the existing one felt apart so I had to scrap it). I did however have a rubber O ring that I put on there but still had leaks. Today hopefully ill be able to get the right kind of crush washer.

My question: do the attached photos if the bottom of the oil pan right by the treads look like the oil pan needs replacing or should a crush washer seal this off?

Note: I realize there are tons of post about this topic which I may have to turn to them for some of their suggestions. My post is specifically about the condition of my oil pan tread area condition so please don't take offense to a repost since this topic has many post already.

 

[grant5127]

Sand down the sealing area to bare metal and fill in the dimple with JB weld and use a OEM gasket....

 

[RicardoJM]

I've had the same issue a couple of years ago with an engine that I bought to swap. I posted up a "need an oil pan" thread on my local club (Rising Sun) site to find a replacement. Then I took a closer look at the issue, and ended up fixing the problem. Here is the final post in that thread.

When I posted up, it was a bit of a panic. Today I was able to look at the problem with the day light and in short order was able to see the cause of the leak. The sealing surface of the pan was slightly dimpled right at the tunnel that goes through the threads at their lowest point.

At first I thought my pan was defective, but then as I thought about it, that tunnel is there to allow the maximum amount of oil to drain from the pan when the drain plug is removed.

Working very carefully with a small screw driver, fine file, punches, hammer and sand paper I was able to work the dimple out and get the surface smooth. The sealing surface has to absolutely smooth, the slightest deformity will let fluid leak. The pan has been filled with liquid for the past 2 hours and not a hint of a leak has appeared. So I think I am no longer in need of an oil pan.

It is strange how things sometime work out. I had read about the older oil pans developing leaks at the spot welds there the oil pan skid plate is attached - and that is why I decided to test it for leaks. The spot welds seem to be fine, but the drain plug was leaking like the outlet of a dam.​

In the last month, I've developed the spot welds leak - go figure - but the drain plug repair is still solid. When I do my next oil change, I'll pull the pan and try to repair the spot weld leak. If that doesn't work I'll be buying a new oil pan. If you do attempt the repair, it is very important that the surface ends up being smooth.

 

[lostmarbles]

Common problem that's cause by the channel Toyota cut in the thread (to allow more-complete draining of the pan) and over-tightening of the plug.

I just use a bit of pipe-seal on the plug:

 

[michaelharrisco]

That did the trick! I also have some oem gaskets now although I expected them to be a metal type material???

That is an interesting design with the channel.