I'm going to change the oil on my truck this week and I need some recommendations. Anyone tried any of the "Long Life" oils? What weight should I put in for the New Hampshire winter?
Oil Change - Winter!
- Thread starter WALoeIII
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colder go thinner.....10w-30 but you still might be able to pull off 10w-40
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
New Hampshire sounds like a cold and rusty place. I would consider one of the 5w-40 rated heavy duty oils. A good choice would be Mobil 1 SUV 5w-40 which would be perfect but pricey. Shell Rotella T Synthetic would work well and is priced fairly at $12.95 per gallon at Walmart. In that cold climate, any 5w-30 would probably be OK but supposedly the 2F motor in your FJ60 likes oils that are on the thicker side at operating temperature. Thus the reccomendation for a 5w-40 oil.
Even though my climate is mild, I am going to run the Rotella T synthetic this winter for the days I go up to Tahoe, and to Death Valley. I've never used it before, but the specs are excellent and I am expecting good performance. Previously I've always run 15w-40 oils most of the year with no issues. After Febuary when it starts to warm up, I'll go back to my usual Delo.
Even though my climate is mild, I am going to run the Rotella T synthetic this winter for the days I go up to Tahoe, and to Death Valley. I've never used it before, but the specs are excellent and I am expecting good performance. Previously I've always run 15w-40 oils most of the year with no issues. After Febuary when it starts to warm up, I'll go back to my usual Delo.
I ran 10w-30 when I lived in PA but now way dows south I run 10w-40, it helps with oil burn off and oil pressure.
It really depends on the condition of your engine.
One worry about the synthetics is you could develop leaks - as I write this I realize that I've only heard that it casues leaks (but to no one in particular) yet I've heard a couple of folks here on the board say they switched and had no problems. Research it though.
Right now in warmer weather, I'm running Chevron Delo 15w-40 with a can of Sea Foam. I've seen a slight decrease in oil pressure with the thinning agent (Sea Foam) but it runs better than ever. Lowtide has lower compression (120 accross the board) and needs the heavier oil - I used to run 20w-50 (the PO's mechanic, who's a shister, recommended it) but have experimented with different weights and the lighter stuff (or 10w-whatever) with Marvel Mystery Oil or Sea Foam to thin it out helps. I may move to the 5w-40 in the winter to see how that goes. (I use the MMOil or Sea Foam because I've got 205k miles of uncleaned deposit build-up. Once I get the rear main replaced - it's a terrible leak - I may stop and just go lighter.)
You have to play it by ear and see what makes your truck run smoother. There's a good thread around here somewhere on what brand of oil to use, and what filter is best. Run a search and you'll find it.
One worry about the synthetics is you could develop leaks - as I write this I realize that I've only heard that it casues leaks (but to no one in particular) yet I've heard a couple of folks here on the board say they switched and had no problems. Research it though.
Right now in warmer weather, I'm running Chevron Delo 15w-40 with a can of Sea Foam. I've seen a slight decrease in oil pressure with the thinning agent (Sea Foam) but it runs better than ever. Lowtide has lower compression (120 accross the board) and needs the heavier oil - I used to run 20w-50 (the PO's mechanic, who's a shister, recommended it) but have experimented with different weights and the lighter stuff (or 10w-whatever) with Marvel Mystery Oil or Sea Foam to thin it out helps. I may move to the 5w-40 in the winter to see how that goes. (I use the MMOil or Sea Foam because I've got 205k miles of uncleaned deposit build-up. Once I get the rear main replaced - it's a terrible leak - I may stop and just go lighter.)
You have to play it by ear and see what makes your truck run smoother. There's a good thread around here somewhere on what brand of oil to use, and what filter is best. Run a search and you'll find it.
hey hey hey swank it was 122-126, ya bastid....haha
lowtideride said:
And next week they'll be up to 130#
If that happens, I'm pushing my numbers up too
what are you talking about they are at like 155 and its not even running.
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I think I'm going to play it safe and go with the 5w-40 Mobile 1. As for the filter - I have read that OEM > All, so I am just going to go that route.
Sporin
Site Addict
Just across the river in VT and I was planning on running a 5W-40 if I could find it in one of the "Heavy Duty" and/or "High Mileage" dino oils with either an OEM or Purolator-PureONE filter.
I run the Rotella 15W-40 during the summer with NO leaks or burn off, so I'd like to stick with a ?W-40 of some sort.
I run the Rotella 15W-40 during the summer with NO leaks or burn off, so I'd like to stick with a ?W-40 of some sort.
Reading this thread just now and have questions.
I had my oil changed at Valvoline quick lube a while back. They used 10-30. I also bought a $7.99 air filter at a auto parts store. I've had no problems at all.
These are not reccommended from what I read.
I just haven't had the time to drop it off at the dealer. And until I build a garage (which will be done in 90 days, I hope) I can't do it myself.
How bad is Valvoline oil and filter, and $7.99 airfilters to an LC's motor life?
I had my oil changed at Valvoline quick lube a while back. They used 10-30. I also bought a $7.99 air filter at a auto parts store. I've had no problems at all.
These are not reccommended from what I read.
I just haven't had the time to drop it off at the dealer. And until I build a garage (which will be done in 90 days, I hope) I can't do it myself.
How bad is Valvoline oil and filter, and $7.99 airfilters to an LC's motor life?
True, but, picture a driveway with crushed stone and a creeper.
My drive way is sand and sea shells....try and work on anything with out sand finding its way on it.
Sporin
Site Addict
PDoyle said:
I might get slapped for saying this, but I'd hazard a guess that it doesn't mater a darn bit.
We are nitpicking at tiny details here because we are ALL obsessed with our cruisers. The only PRIORITY is that you change the oil regularly, period.
Oh and, you don't need a creeper and s smooth driveway to get under your truck. Changing the oil couldn't be easier in these trucks.
^ Yep, I just crawl under mine with no creeper. I've got a limestone rock driveway as well, larger rocks than usuall- it's called 1.5" washed limestone. Nice big rocks mean it doesn't get stuck in the tire lugs easily, or get tracked in in the winters. But it's also not very nice to lay on.
You're only under the truck for 2-4 minutes anyway, just long enough for the oil to drain out.
You're only under the truck for 2-4 minutes anyway, just long enough for the oil to drain out.
I'm getten lazy in my old (43) age....
Good news is I'm all set to construct a 4 stall- 3 front, 1- 6 ft on the side, 2 story attached garage ASAP....
I simply can't wait!!!!!!
Good news is I'm all set to construct a 4 stall- 3 front, 1- 6 ft on the side, 2 story attached garage ASAP....
I simply can't wait!!!!!!
all you need$$$$$$. I refi'ed...
Sporin said:I might get slapped for saying this, but I'd hazard a guess that it doesn't mater a darn bit.
We are nitpicking at tiny details here because we are ALL obsessed with our cruisers. The only PRIORITY is that you change the oil regularly, period.
Oh and, you don't need a creeper and s smooth driveway to get under your truck. Changing the oil couldn't be easier in these trucks.
True, but I would worry about the filter issue. A cheap filter (Fram) can come apart and wind up in your motor...which isn't good.
Mine leaks so much oil, that it kind of doesn't matter what I put in it, I guess, but I do notice that it's running much smoother with the Sea Foam and lighter oil in it.
