Not the typical HG failure

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She's alive!

After two months of being parked in the shop, I finally drove her out today. Man is that engine S-M-O-O-O-T-H! Sounds completely different too. Still have a few things to button up, but she runs great! Lots of little upgrades and mods while she was under the knife that I'll take pictures of soon.
 
After two months of being parked in the shop, I finally drove her out today. Man is that engine S-M-O-O-O-T-H! Sounds completely different too. Still have a few things to button up, but she runs great! Lots of little upgrades and mods while she was under the knife that I'll take pictures of soon.

Woot!!! Feels good doesnt it.

Side note I was jsut happy after parking my 914 for 8mo (garaged), fired it up today, 2-3 pumps of gas and running like clock work.

Good signs for summer :D
 
After two months of being parked in the shop, I finally drove her out today. Man is that engine S-M-O-O-O-T-H! Sounds completely different too. Still have a few things to button up, but she runs great! Lots of little upgrades and mods while she was under the knife that I'll take pictures of soon.

Fill us in on what all was done.

Congrats. It is a good feeling to get her running again.
 
After I pulled off the head and saw how nasty the block was, I figured I would just rebuild the entire motor. This turned out to be a good choice since the further I looked, the worse things appeared. Corrosion alone would have been justification to gut the block and get it descaled. Both #4 & #5 main bearings were toast from lack of oil at some point. This was likely the cause of my rasp/rattle between 2500-3500 RPM.

As I mentioned above, the head had some serious issues with corrosion. The water passages had eroded to the point of being on top of the fire ring. Initially, I told the machine shop there was no way I would wanted the head welded or filled. If the head was that bad, I would just buy a bare casting. They were willing to do what ever I asked, but suggested I look at a couple of heads they worked on. Both of the heads they showed me had been filled and machined. Other than the difference in coloration, the filler looked like it belonged there. What impressed me about these two head is that they were from a pair of OTR diesel engines. One had over 600K miles on it since the last rebuild. I was sold, if the filler would last that long, it was good enough for me!

After the head was filled and machined, it was time to rebuild it. 24 valves later it was complete. Both cams were still in great shape and benefitted only from a quick micro polish. Cam bearings appeared barely worn.

Next came the block, which had a heavy build up of scale and rust in the water jacket. First it was hot tanked to remove the grease and oil build up. Then it went to a descaling bath to remove nearly all of the scale and rust. The result was a VERY clean block.

After a few measurements, the machinist told me the most amazing news. The cylinders were in good enough shape they could simply be cleaned up and use a fresh set of standard sized rings. I couldn’t believe what he was telling me. Here was an engine that had been through plenty of abuse and neglect during the past 15 years and 200K miles, and it could “get by” with a new set of rings. Amazing! Despite the good news, I still decided to go with larger pistons. Luckily for me, there just happened to be one set of +1mm pistons left in the US.
 
I mentioned before the condition of the crank. The #4 & #5 main bearings were toast and consequently the cranks corresponding journals were a little rough. The machine shop I used has one of the only machines in Arizona that can not only straighten cranks, but can also build them up and regrind them. They use a process called pulse arc welding to build up the journals. This process is pretty slick as it sprays molten weld on to the crank as it is turning. Once it is build up, the crank journals are ground back down to the need diameter.

Once the crank was done, it was time to balance the reciprocating assembly. First the pistons were weighed to determine which of the six was the lightest. Then the other 5 were weighed and had material removed with a ball mill. When done, all 6 pistons were within .01 grams of each other. The same process was repeated for the rods. Fast forwarding a few days, the engine was palletized and ready for me to pick up and begin assembly.

During the time the engine had been at the machine shop, I started to clean everything that had come off the engine during removal. Two products I found to be invaluable were Lime Away and Purple Power degreaser. What ever was greasy went into a vat of Purple Power and came out spot less. Anything that had scale or rust on it sat in Lime Away and came out looking brand new. I did this not only for the parts (at least the ones I didn’t powder coat!) but also for all the fasteners. Nothing like putting something back together with clean fasteners!

Not all the parts and fasteners were reused though. Anything that looked questionable was replaced. As you can see in the picture below, my laptop was never far away. Whenever I need something, I only had to log into my Toyota Wholesale Parts account and get it ordered…talk about convenient!

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I sent the injectors out to Arizona TPI to be cleaned and balanced. I have used them for several years and am always impressed by the extra mile they go for me. They did it this time by not only cleaning and balancing the injectors, they also modified them to flow an additional 4lbs/hr.

Once the block was assembled, it was time to place the head. I knew early on I wanted to use ARP studs, but knew the set designed for Supras was too short (Landtank mentions this above in #14). I called ARP and told them what I was looking for. They didn’t have an exact set, but they asked me to send them one of my head bolts and they would see what they could do. A week later, I received a set of studs that are a little longer and cured the problem Rick mentioned in his post. Best of all, ARP never charged me for them. Instead they asked me to let them know if they worked out OK.

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One thing I decided I didn’t want to reuse was my EGR valve. For various reasons, the least of which was my main wiring harness was burnt and had a couple of exposed wires. Another reason was the valve it self was not working. I made a block off plate for the intake and tapped the intake side of the head and inserted a pipe plug.

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Since I had removed the PAIR valve a long time ago, I updated my water bypass pipe to the 95+ style. This eliminated the long run of heater hose from the front of the engine to the heater core outlet on the firewall.

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Speaking of heater hoses, I also removed the rear heater and lines. -I live in Phoenix and have not found a day that was cold enough to warrant the use of the rear heater. I also felt the rear lines were a leak waiting to happen. Removing the rear heater also freed up some room under the passenger seat that let me mount my Blue Sea fuse box.

Installing the motor back in the Cruiser was fairly uneventful. I didn’t pull the tranny, so getting the flexplate and torque converter to line up after the motor was bolted in was a pain. I also broke the #1 knock sensor’s plug. This was quickly remedied through a new plug and repair pig tail.

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I wrapped up the installation by finishing the little details that seem to take the most amount of the time. I was pretty elated when I turned the key and the motor started after cranking for a just a couple of seconds. Once it started, it idled smoother than it ever had before.

After setting the timing and making sure all the fluid levels were up, it was time for a road test. The first thing I noticed was a quicker throttle response. I’m running 35’s with stock gears and plenty of armor – I wasn’t expecting to be thrown back in my seat when I mashed the skinny pedal, but I did notice a difference. After a short trip around town, it was time for some freeway miles. The on ramp near my house is a steady up hill grade. The Cruiser pulled this ramp way better than before and without much effort. Once I was on the freeway, I maintained 65mph while still climbing a mild grade until it finally levels off. –Way better drivability than before!
 
Holy cow that motor looks brand spanking new. Fantastic job :beer:

Should we call you the stig? :flipoff2:
 
wow!

this is all way above my paygrade....

congrats!
 
Despite the good news, I still decided to go with larger pistons. Luckily for me, there just happened to be one set of +1mm pistons left in the US.

Very nicely done. Is the engine a 4.7L now?

-B-
 
Very nicely done. Is the engine a 4.7L now?

-B-

I don't know if that was enough to punch the displacement up to a 4.7.

Interestingly though, I've been talking with the machine shop about the possibility of stroking a 1FZ. They have done this numerous times by using their crank machine to create a longer stroke on different engines. Clearancing the block isn't rocket science for them either. As soon as I can find a used engine, I plan to let them play around with it and see what they can come up with:D
 
Out of curiosity, what machine shop did you use?
 
Next came the block, which had a heavy build up of scale and rust in the water jacket. First it was hot tanked to remove the grease and oil build up. Then it went to a descaling bath to remove nearly all of the scale and rust. The result was a VERY clean block.

I going off memory here, but I thought it was DTaylor that Hot Tanked his block and there was some issue with a part that messes up, that's not a replacible part. Sorry for the vagueness, but does anybody else know what I'm talking about?
 
Yes, it is the bushing for the oil pump idler gear. After 200K miles, I figured it was worn. The machine shop made a new one and pressed it in.
 
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