Not Cool

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so I said I would post an update after it went in the shop. Turns out the head gasket job I tried to do myself didn't take, there is still antifreeze getting into the exhaust.

And I had some vaccuum tubes deteriorated / wrong.

And the brand new stock carb had the fuel mix screw all the way in with the plug still on it ! (along with other issues according to the mechanic).

Compression check result = Cyl 1,2,4,5 with 120+ , cyl 3 80.

So everybody wins, everything is a little screwed up.
 
Take your head to a machine shop and make sure it is not warped.



so I said I would post an update after it went in the shop. Turns out the head gasket job I tried to do myself didn't take, there is still antifreeze getting into the exhaust.

And I had some vaccuum tubes deteriorated / wrong.

And the brand new stock carb had the fuel mix screw all the way in with the plug still on it ! (along with other issues according to the mechanic).

Compression check result = Cyl 1,2,4,5 with 120+ , cyl 3 80.

So everybody wins, everything is a little screwed up.
 
I'd have it magnafluxed too. I'm not convinced its not got a crack in it..
 
Newbie here, sort of. I've read 10,000 posts and written 1 or 2.

I've had this 86fj60 for a year and a half, and love it. But it won't stay cool.

I have replaced (one at a time), water pump, fan clutch, head gasket, flushed the radiator (three years old), all the suspect hoses, and worked over 30 minutes to get the bubbles out when I filled the system.

The last try I thought I had it, it stayed cool for a couple of hours on an 80+ degree day,

Any ideas ?

hi there....i know how you fill that same thing was happening to my FJ60....anyway the motor that was in the I blow up but it was not getting hot..so I used all the stuff from the old motor and put on the new motor (like water pump, fun clutch ect.) once it was running it started to run hot and could not work it out so took out thermostat and still was getting hot put new thermostat and nothing put new radiator and water pump and it still was getting hot so I started to think back when I was a new mancnic starting out that one of the guys told me a story about a prob they had wich is the same as what your having anyway he bridge the heater and it work so I went back out to my 60 did the same thing bridge the heater and it never got how agen

sorry about the spelling guys i sux

Nat
 
Boy a warped head would certainly round out the crowd.

Definitely going to machine shop. When I changed the head gasket last fall I took it in and had it planed, magnafluxed, had the oil galley plug thing fixed (thanks Ih8mud), and the exhaust valves replaced...it looked awesome when I put it back on... wish the gasket had held up. Did I ever mention the motor has 250k and still has that compresion ? We're hoping the low number in cyl 3 will be the head leak.

Nat, how do you bridge the heater? And spelling glitches aren't so bad, notice my "tope" of slope in an earlier post. :doh: (that's my first smilie)
 
Mine has rubber plugs on those heater hose ends. :)
 
I sure hope for your sake that you are using Toyota head gaskets. I have seen more than one after market gasket with the holes in the wrong places. That could be the source of your overheating issues to begin with which led to a warped head or the inferior gasket failing from the excesss heat. They are expensive but cheaper than all the brain damage resulting form the garbage that Checker or Autozone will sell you.
 
even if you get the head shaved to get rid of warpage you have to remember the cam is bolted to the head in the same plane as the head surface.You shave the head and bolt it back up to just run into the cam binding in the journels.....make sure you check this to when you have the head inspected,I had a machine shop shave a head and just try to polish the journels to get rid of the binding but i caught this before i bolted it on. just a thought......good luck
 
What does "bridging the heater" do?

it stops the flow of water passing though the heater and sends it back to the motor, i know is sounds dum but if the heater is blocked it can cause the motor to heat up as the water is not flowing right and the water that is ment to go to the heater gets backet up and has no where to go so it gets sent back to the motor to find a new way out
 
when you bridge the heater core you are bypasing the heater core.....sometimes the heater core will clog up with rust and scale until water does'nt return from it. by bypassing it you are creating a new water passage that at one time flowed with no restrictions....however some systems have a bypass(3 way swithing valve that is built in at the firewall and most have a on off valve both of witch are controlled by the heat selector in the cab on the dash etc. depending on the system it may or maynot help. by the way check that water is getting past this valve...sometimes the valve itself will be the problem.the heater control will feal somewhat stiff if there is a problem
 

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