No 12V at ignition...continuity between ignition and ignition switch is good. The ignition switch checks out ok. I've already put in a new battery, Jim C. desmog, alternator, and starter. I've checked the fuses and one of them was bridged by previous owner. I also replaced the ignition wires, and at this point I'm not too sure what the problem could be. I'm so close to taking it to the dealer becuase I've been working on and off with it for four years. Any suggestions?
No Spark!????
- Thread starter yodaholic
- Start date
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Have you pulled the coil wire from the distributor and checked for a spark there? If not try that, hold the wire next to the block and have someone turn the ignition. If you get a spark, you need new cap and rotor, if no spark, new coil.
Good luck-
Good luck-
Check the wires and the cap. I had a new Denso cap that the coil terminal failed on after 4 months. I spent a day trying to figure out my lack of spark. New cap, plugs and wires and my problems were solved.
The factory wires have the manufacturing year stamped on them, make sure you're not running 16 year old wires like someone I know.
Hodag
The factory wires have the manufacturing year stamped on them, make sure you're not running 16 year old wires like someone I know.
Hodag
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You say there is continuity from ig switch to ig.
By that you prolly mean there is continuity from ig sw. to power connector at coil/ignitor?
Do you actually have continuity to the positive stud of the coil?
If there is continuity from ig sw to the + stud on coil, but there is no +12V at +stud w/ KOEO, then there is no +12V coming out of the ig sw. Problem lies between battery and ig sw output.
By that you prolly mean there is continuity from ig sw. to power connector at coil/ignitor?
Do you actually have continuity to the positive stud of the coil?
If there is continuity from ig sw to the + stud on coil, but there is no +12V at +stud w/ KOEO, then there is no +12V coming out of the ig sw. Problem lies between battery and ig sw output.
- Thread starter
- #6
I had a bad fuse link at the battery that was replaced. Yes, I did mean that I had continuity between the pos. coil post and ign. switch. So you say that the problem lies between bat and switch. Possible short? I am out of town right now but still have comp access. Prev owner put a few bare wires on a fuse to create a bridge. Could that have been the start of my problem. Although I never documented which fuse it was. Any help is greatly appreciated and I can pay the toll.
Do you have the FSM with the wiring diagram? Start checking it out by turning the ignition on & test for 12V @ the positive post on the coil. If not, switch/circuit is bad. If so & it won't start, check out the cap/rotor/wires, etc.
Old professional mechanic friend of mine says it's never the coil. Parts stores sell boatloads of coils because people are too impatient and not analytical enough.
Old professional mechanic friend of mine says it's never the coil. Parts stores sell boatloads of coils because people are too impatient and not analytical enough.
Check the terminal in side the plug of the wiring harness that your fuse link plugs into... I've had several of these that didn't make a good connection because of stress of over-heating issues.......yodaholic said:
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Dude,Tinker said:
That needs to be a sticky!
- Thread starter
- #10
The switch is good but still no spark. I haven't checked the cap and plugs and I havn't checked the relay. I have all the FSM's US and Ausy.