No Oil or Fuel Pressure??

[bigbertha]

Hey Guys-

I got Bertha back together, valve cover cleaned, new gasket and all vaccum lines are in place, oil is changed, filter is new. I went to start her up and i noticed that i am not getting any fuel or oil pressure readings. However, I am getting a battery reading. All other gauges in the cluster are not moving at all.

I turn the ignition on and the starter fires off but she won't start up. I tried this a bunch of times with no good results. She just won't turn over.

Hmm. I checked all electrical connections and they are all ok.

Can anyone help??

 

[bigbertha]

maybe she's flooded?

Is there any way to flood an automatic? It feels like she is flooded? Is there something other than turning the key that will get the engine going? like push starting?

 

[sisukid1975]

Sounds like an electrical problem. Since there are no guages working, except battery...

I'd guess a problem with the ignition switch? Maybe juice is not being turned on to the instrument cluster and the coil/igniter?

That's where I'd start-- see if you have spark.

Fred

 

[bigbertha]

thanks for your response. i was just outside with some farmers guys who sprayed some ether into the throttle body to get her to fire up, but still no dice. they also think it is electrical.

so how do i go about seeing if i have spark?

i checked all the distributor connections and all are solid. i am gonna go out and check the ignitor with a meter. but more details would really help. Thanks again

 

[batman]

thanks for your response. i was just outside with some farmers guys who sprayed some ether into the throttle body to get her to fire up, but still no dice. they also think it is electrical.

so how do i go about seeing if i have spark?

i checked all the distributor connections and all are solid. i am gonna go out and check the ignitor with a meter. but more details would really help. Thanks again

To see if you have spark:

You need two people one to turn key while the other one looks

Remove a spark plug, then plug the spark plug back into the spark plug wire

place the spark plug neer some type of metal the is in the same groung loop as the battery, (lay it on top of valve cover) somewhere but not near the ether or fuel.

Have second person to turn over motor and the other person watch for spark from the plug, you can use an Insulated grip screw driver and while holding it put the end of the driver near the spark plug and see if the arc jumps..

Thats the best way I know to tell you how to look for spark. 1/2

 

[Colorado Boy-74-FJ40]

Go easy with that ether. I blew up a snowmobile when I was a kid!

 

[bigbertha]

electrical

thanks batman. I will go check to see if i have spark when my gf gets home.

i just came in from checking the igniter and traced the wires back to the intake assembly (connected to the air filter plenum) on top of which there is a black thing, about 2.5"x2.5", rounded on one side and sealed by silicone. I pried the it loose and i see that it is the cover for some circuitry. there are 2 tiny broken connections to some kind of circuit board. The metal looks like it broke free of the board. I am guessing that this is my problem. Anyone got any tips on soldering these back inplace? they are SMALL.

OY VEY.

 

[batman]

Go easy with that ether. I blew up a snowmobile when I was a kid!

Yea when you drink that ether it will make you do some crazy s***...

(Gulp gulp gulp (colorado boy drinks ether)----Damn thats some strong stuff, watch this I can spit fire. He then take a swig of ether and lights his lighter and spits fire all over his snowmobile...

Friend says "Thats was so cool , try to do that with your LC"!

 

[batman]

thanks batman. I will go check to see if i have spark when my gf gets home.

i just came in from checking the igniter and traced the wires back to the intake assembly (connected to the air filter plenum) on top of which there is a black thing, about 2.5"x2.5", rounded on one side and sealed by silicone. I pried the it loose and i see that it is the cover for some circuitry. there are 2 tiny broken connections to some kind of circuit board. The metal looks like it broke free of the board. I am guessing that this is my problem. Anyone got any tips on soldering these back inplace? they are SMALL.

OY VEY.

Take a picture of it I can tr to help, I'm 2m certified (soldering school I took).

 

[sisukid1975]

thanks batman. I will go check to see if i have spark when my gf gets home.

i just came in from checking the igniter and traced the wires back to the intake assembly (connected to the air filter plenum) on top of which there is a black thing, about 2.5"x2.5", rounded on one side and sealed by silicone. I pried the it loose and i see that it is the cover for some circuitry. there are 2 tiny broken connections to some kind of circuit board. The metal looks like it broke free of the board. I am guessing that this is my problem. Anyone got any tips on soldering these back inplace? they are SMALL.

OY VEY.

Some sort of AMM or airflow meter?

Wow. I don't know how it works with the FJ62, but on a Volvo if the AMM (measures air coming into the intake plenum) does not work, the injectors will default into a "limp-home mode" since they won't know how much fuel to mix, and it often won't start.

If it is an AMM or its equivalent, I don't think you can solder it. THey tend to be very finnicky little devices. (the Volvo ones work by heating a wire filament to 1800 degrees F, then measuring the amount of current it takes to keep that wire heated. THe more airflow, the more amperes to keep the wire heated, etc... THe ECU then takes that data and uses it, in conjunction with the Lambda-Sond O2 and TPI Sensor read to set the injection profile...

So if that is your AMM or airflow meter, you may not be getting fuel.

But why wouldn't your gauges work? That's what has me confused.

Fred

 

[bigbertha]

Pix

Hey Batman and Fred-

You rock. Thanks for all the help. Here are the pix you asked for. The broken connections are indicated with green arrows. there are also two plug-in wires that i detatched but don't mind those.

Am I in deep sh*t or can I fix this here. I am in the boondox so it will be hell to get towed.

Fred, your last post has me super worried. I think I am in trouble here. please tell me otherwise.

 

[batman]

I will look when I get home, so I can see for myself what we are looking at.. I should have an update in a few hours..

 

[sisukid1975]

Hey Batman and Fred-

You rock. Thanks for all the help. Here are the pix you asked for. The broken connections are indicated with green arrows. there are also two plug-in wires that i detatched but don't mind those.

Am I in deep sh*t or can I fix this here. I am in the boondox so it will be hell to get towed.

Fred, your last post has me super worried. I think I am in trouble here. please tell me otherwise.

I really don't know. It does look like some sort of AMM or Airflow sensor. I really am more of a diesel person, and I have NO experience at all with the 3FE or it's fuel injection system.

So I don't know if you're screwed or not. If you were in a Volvo, yes, to the tune of about $300, but that's all I can tell you with any certainty.

I would guess the engine may not start without a working AMM since most cars use the AMM (or a combination of MAP/Intake Temp Sensors, but that's more common on American cars) to determine fuel mixture before the O2 Sensor heats up.

Like I said though, I'm still confused why your gauges aren't working... I'd still check spark, but I'd be very suspicious of that thingy in the pictures, too. SInce you said it was connected to the Igniter, I'd venture to say that if the sensor detects no airflow (or is broken) it might not allow the igniter to come on. "No Flow, no go" you know?

Fred

 

[bigbertha]

Hey guys-

UPDATE!

SHE STARTED!! WOOHOO!

I just don't know if she will keep starting.

I checked the cold start injector and it had some gunk in it so I cleaned it out and checked OHMS. All was normal and I reconnected everything, cleaned out the igniter, which was dirty, fiddled with the circuit so all the connectors at least lined up and were touching. When i started her up she roared to life. Most of her gauges kicked in and she is actually starting up better than she did before i cleaned out all that gunk from the rocker bar and valves. The only gauge that is totally dead is the fuel guage. any thoughts?

Batman, there is a silicone gasket sealing the circuit box so i don't think you want to mess with it. Still, if you can offer any advice I would appreciate it. I am holding the circuit box covewr on with some duct tape in case she decides to die on me again. I will wait for your thoughts on soldering before re-sealing her. Even if she is not 100%, at least she is starting!!!

Fred- Thanks for the support and advice, even if it might not apply. If you have any new ideas or anything, please keep adding to the post. The more I can learn here, the more I enjoy this truck. The gauges are bothering me too. I will tinker some more and see if i can't get that fuel guage to wake up.

Thanks for the support!! I need it.

 

[batman]

Sorry brother I didn't get a chance to look at it last night due to the false alarm for my wife giving birth.

I am a fan of the dont fix it if it aint broke.