No A/C

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parnoren

parnoren

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Mar 21, 2008
Threads
15
Messages
232
Location
Vancouver, BC
After the winter I seem to have lost my A/C. The compressor doesn't come on when turning on the A/C, just free-wheeling. I tested the resistance of the compressor and it shows 800 Ohms which is within spec. I also checked to make sure the clutch plate kicks in by providing 12v directly to the compressor. It did kick in when doing this, but I didn't dare to do this for very long in case I'm out of refrigerant which I believe would cease the compressor. During the short period of having the compressor working I checked the "window" but saw no bubbles. I guess this means the lines are either full or empty of refrigerant.

Does anybody have access to the FSM and can tell me what the resistance should be on the pressure switch if I test it? The switch is located in the same spot as the "peep hole".

I'm thinking that I have a leak and that the system is empty which would make the system not work, but I would like to test everything else first before I take it to the shop. I'm currently on the road so I have some time before I get back to town for some further testing.

Any other ideas?
 
Just so you know, the zip FSM is downloadable, search on the forum...

To try to learn something I tried looking it up, but I merely confirmed that I don't know what the heck I'm doing :-)

I don't see the answer you're looking for unless the answer is zero (no resistance)

1z2hber.jpg



At least for the transistor there's an ohm measurement...

3534b5u.jpg
 
Thanks,

That's what I was looking for. I have the FSM at home, but with my phone it's difficult to download and search the FSM you mentioned.

Cheers!
 
I have previously used, with good results, fluorescence dyed R134 to charge the system, and use a UV light to find the leak.

I don't know if you are at this step yet, but it would be cheaper for you to buy the UV kit and do it yourself than have a shop do the diagnoses.

Common leaking areas for the 100 AC system include the lines just aft of the front passenger wheel well, and the lines running down the passenger framerail (if you have rear AC).

I have also had the valves leak in the engine bay (where you connect to the high and low pressure lines for purging/filling the AC system).

Sent from my Thunderbonner using IH8MUD
 
I would have a shop recharge the system with a service cart. This will pull a vacuum and evacuate the system. If it won't hold a vacuum, then there's a leak somewhere. The cart will also recharge the system with the correct amount of refrigerant and lube oil. Most people overlook the lube oil in the system. Lack of lube oil or old oil with moisture in it will kill a compressor and some of the other components.

A good repair shop that does a/c systems will have all the tools and knowledge. Plus, they can leak check with dye and a UV light as previously mentioned.

Good Luck!
 
Seems like I have a hole in the thinner of the two tubes going back to the rear unit. I might try one of the splicing options before anything else. Does anybody know the diameter of this tube?
 
Another question: If I decide to replace the line, I will have to lift the body slightly off the frame to slide the new line in. I have been searching and the only hits I get is how to remove the body mount bolts to insert the pucks for a body lift. As I don't need to pull the bolts up, I'm wondering if there is access to all body mount bolts from underneath the truck? Then I could just loosen the nuts and lift the body up enough to get the new line in. If anybody has done this job before, please let me know.
 
Not yet. I have bought the long tubing, but it seems like I will have to spend some considerable time underneath the truck to remove my rusted bolts on the muffler pipes. Plus I'm not entirely sure on how to remove the body bolt that is located under the passenger seat. I will give it a try one of these days.
 
FWIW..My AC has a slooow leak. It needs to be recharged every 6 months. This has been going on for 6 years now.

They (repair place) cant find a leak with the usual methods, and say its in the radiator probably. BUT They insist on testing for a leak for $50 each time because "thats the law here in CA" (not sure about that). I am just going to refill it myself from now on.
 
One of the lines going to the rear on our 06 LX is leaking. Toy dealer quoted just over $500 to replace it. I was able to talk them down a hundred on a non-related issue so it goes in later this week for the fix. I had thought about changing the line myself but it seems like a huge PIA...
 
super50 said:
So...where does the red angel stuff go? Do you pour it into the coolant reservoir?
Click to expand...

http://www.amazon.com/Red-Angel-Stop-Leak-Conditioner/dp/B002BG4WX2/?tag=ihco-20


No. You put it in the Low pressure A/C port next to the firewall on the 100 series. It's a piece of cake to do. I got the Red Angel with the stop leak and conditioner. This stuff is great because it stays liquid until it hits air.

If your vehicle has a slow leak & maintains a partial charge, add Red Angel along with the necessary amount of R-134a. I bought a couple cans of r-134a with a reusable pump\gauge.

http://www.amazon.com/SubZero-Synthetic-Booster-Reusable-Recharge/dp/B0002KKLJS/?tag=ihco-20


1. Start your Landcruiser and put the a/c on high. (Full Blast)

2. Open the Low pressure port on the cruiser and connect the red angel stop leak. Shake and turn can between 12 and 3 o-clock. You can watch a youtube video on how to do this.

3. Once that is done put in freon (R-134a)to the correct level. You should be set.

For less than $90 dollars you should be set with A/C.
 
Thank you. I will give it a try next time
 
Update - The Red Angel stop leak stuff is in, and the R-134a is topped off...so far so good.
I added some R-134a with oil as well, so the compressor sounds a little better too.

A few words of caution for people contemplating this - my Red Angel stop leak can was defective, and leaked as soon as the button was depressed. Maybe 1/4th can went in to the low pressure line, and the rest leaked out from the top all over my thumb in a matter of seconds. So now I have a "freezer burn" on my thumb. WEAR GLOVES and take your time!!! I called the distributor, and they were very nice - they are sending me a replacement can.
 
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