Newbie Help with Spring Install

[IH8Wood]

I'm sure this is pretty basic, but I searched and read through many posts and didn't find what I was looking for, so take pity on me.

I have an 83 fj60 with original springs. I bought a set of new OME springs from a friend who has too many projects.

No problem removing an old spring. I'm doing one side at a time, starting with the rear. I'm re-using the original shackles and pins. The 1st pic is of an old and new spring, side-by-side.

When I installed a new spring on the shackle, and pointed the shackle towards the ground, the spring would not reach the front pin. See pics 2 & 3.

When I rotated the shackle so the spring would reach the front pin, the center of the spring was about 4" forward of the axle. Now the U bolts would not line up with the spring seat.

Any help would be appreciated. Directions where oddly absent from usually detailed FSM.

Thanks in advance - Seth

 

[IH8Wood]

Pic #3

Pic #3

 

[OursSauvage]

Hi,
You had to fix first the rear pin, and fix the U bolt on the axle (but it's very difficult if you work side by side, you have to done on both side).
after the two side are attach on the axle (the shaft is not your friend ) you had to play with the heigh of the Land cruiser (the wheel are on the ground) and some pieces of wood (between the frame and the spring) to make the wholes matches.
Little hydraulic jack is very usefull at this points (remplacing the pieces of wood)

The OME spring are longers than oems (longers to be highers) so, they are normally delivered with anti-reverse shackles, like these (home-made)

Take care that the shackle go in the right way (to the rear for the rears, to the front for the fronts) when you put the cruiser back on the ground

 

[jwest]

I may be just repeating what's said above...

Fit the springs and shackles first but don't torque them down yet, you need movement.
Then locate the axle on the the springs and assemble the ubolts. You may have to adjust the slip yoke on the driveshaft.
Don't overtighten the ubolts at this point, you'll need some play when locating the other side.
Then go back and torque everything down.

.

 

[OursSauvage]

I may be just repeating what's said above...

Fit the springs and shackles first but don't torque then down yet, you need movement...
.

But in some case with new springs (Ome Heavy duty) at the first rig, the springs are to curved and holes doesn't match (especially with oem shackle, shorter)
Don't you think ?

 

[jwest]

Hmm yes, in the case of OME heavies, shackle length could be an issue and so extended shackles would be necessary.

In picture #1 the OME's look a bit shorter (eye-to-eye) than oem, but it still seems the oem shackles should span the distance. Of course, I'm not there.

I installed parabolics which have the same lift as OME and didn't have trouble using the oem shackles.

.

 

[jwest]

Then again, the old spring could be flattened out...

Install the fixed eye end first and then hook the shackles into the spring and body.
That will tell you right away whether you have a distance problem.

Also make sure you're using the correct springs side to side (if you have an A or B side).

.

 

[fsusteve]

Take the zerk fitting out of the driveshaft, it'll help in conjunction with what those guys said.

 

[brownbag]

I just finished installing my BDS suspension today. You need to use a hydraulic floor jack on the front and rear axles to play with axle height. Use your Toyota screw jack under the spring pack to align the spring with perch and pins with hole in axle. I found that I had to jack the axle up to the bumper stops and then jack the spring pack up to the axle for the pin to align.

Tough but rewarding project. Who make those springs?

 

[89s rule]

I have been working on my lift lately as well. Getting off the old prings is the hardest part. Especially if you are reusing your bolts and shackles. What did you do burn out your bushings?

You are supposed to connect the frame pin 1st from what I have been told looking at my manuals.

Be sure to leave the ubolts rathrer loose so you can move the axle around some. WOuld be handy to haveb 2 people at that point. I am sure it is a little easier with the 2 1/2" springs than with my 4" springs. The axle is a good bit above the springs and I almost have to leave the axle up on the opposite side.

Post up some pics b/f and after. Sweet set-up and mine is really shaping up!! Just have to get it done!

 

[IH8Wood]

Thanks everyone your responses. If I understand correctly:

1. Remove weight from axle & remove old springs from both sides.
2. Attach springs to frame pin & axle, but not to shackle.
3. Jack up spring pack, take zerk out of drive shaft, & move axle as needed.
4. Connect spring to shackle.

OursSauvage: the rears are OME mediums so I thought the stock shackles would fit, but I may try longer shackles to see if that helps.

jwest: One of the rear springs is marked + and the other is marked -. Do you know what this means?

brownbag: The springs are Old Man Emu (OME).

89s rule: I didn't have too much trouble getting the old springs off. I just took a Sawzall to the bushings.

 

[jwest]

1. Remove weight from axle & remove old springs from both sides.

Looks like you've all ready passed this stage.
Jack stands support the frame , and a floor jack supports the axle.
I prefer to work on one side at a time beginning at the rear. Loosen but don't dismantle the ubolts opposite the side your working on. This allows you freedom to seat the new spring without having to muscle the axle too much. Note the orientation of the spring and compare it to the new unit.

2. Attach springs to frame pin & axle, but not to shackle.

No. Attach the spring to frame pin first, then to the shackle/frame. Leave the bolts loose for play.
Lower the axle perch onto the new spring, install ubolts and shock plate, and tighten the ubolts just enough to lock in the locator but no more. You still need to do the other side.

3. Jack up spring pack, take zerk out of drive shaft, & move axle as needed.

You may need to remove the zerk if the drive shaft is grease locked and won't give you slack to locate the axle on the new spring.

Two general rules of thumb.
1) The military wrap on both front and rears spring packs are installed on the fixed frame pin.

2) Note the orientation of the original spring and compare it to the new unit.
Unless you're deliberately changing the wheelbase, the relative dimensions need to be the same, save "lifted" height.

 

[89s rule]

great advice jwest!

IH8Wood,
I sure do wish my old springs came off as easily. It was a beast and I didnt keep any pins or shackles. I bought new ones, greasable on both ends!

 

[OursSauvage]

Did anyone has experience mounting pins and shackles without grease, to avoid the problem of disassembling

Last time, I try this grease : http://www.graisse-belleville.com/FT-bleue-graisse-belleville.html
Google translation http://translate.google.com/transla...&hl=fr&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=/language_tools

After one year of trailing (sand and mud) and high pressure wach, i could unmount them easily(the olders, not new ones), but it's only "one year"